whale392

The Tamiya Cobra R got the regular SN95 set-up, which is closer in scale but not shape to the SVO. The SVO had the narrowest k-member (between the a-arm pick-up points, specific to the SVO) and 1982-83 Lincoln TownCar a-arms (they were an inch longer than FOX arms with a larger ball joint shaft). the SN95s and Thunderbird Turbocoupe arms are 3/4" longer than FOX arms, with the SN having a taller ball joint. The TownCar arms actually looked like square-tube steel arms versus the regular stamped-steel units that all other FOXes got. Stephen, with some fitting, the 99 Cobra parts can go back under the 1/25th MPC offerings you have. I have a 'SnakeBite' 82 Mustang kit right now with the front and rear suspension from the 99 Cobra adapted back into it, along with the engine/trans. It wasn't easy, but it will work and yield a far better looking chassis.

Now comes the tedious part, all of the detail-painting! Paint looks great on the parts; can't ait to see it all come together.

Haven't seen it anywhere else Jason. However, maybe that means I need to get on making a resin copy of it, the corresponding steering column clamshell, and the small headrests! And the ONLY reason I suggested starting with the Reliable piece is that it is the only one really available at the moment.........not because of the quality casting (all 3 are only so-so, as discussed here earlier).

Agreed Jason, I just got home from work and dug out some of my chassis plates. The thing that got me thinking of them as all the same is the front and rear suspensions are all alike, for every issue. And you and I KNOW the SVO got a special K-Member/A-arm configuration, unlike anything kitted in all of the 1/24th kits.

Depending. But, I would start with the Reliable body combined with either the 87-93 GT bits (for an 87-89 car) or the 93 Cobra (for the 90-93 cars). Reliable also makes a set of 10-holes, but I would go with Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland before I would RR. Depending on agency, the lightbars will have to be made/modified. (I am doing an FHP 1993 SSP and am making the 'Jetsonic' bar from the lightbar in the Revell Impala Police car.

Jason is correct, the Pace Car is a sunroof car (Monogram issue). Now you are going to make me have to dig out all of my chassis plates to look for the differences! The 87-93 GT Convertible tails are taller; now that you say that, I do remember having fit issues with them back/into the Cobra body. You know, I am having a thought here: I will have to make some time and get Photobucket to work well with me, but why don't we do a comparison/informative thread on the various different Monogram/Revell kits offered in 1/24th scale? I have the 1979 Pace Car, the 1979 Cobra, the 83-84 GLX Convertible, the original issue 1991 and 1992 GT Convertible, the 'New Monkeys' 1987 GT Convertible, the 2 different issues of the GT Convertible in their 'Lowrider' series, the original issue 85 SVO and the re-issue, an original issue 93 Cobra and the reissue, plus the original and 'Basic Builder' of the 87 Thunderbird TurboCoupe (I bring this kit up as a source for a correct 2.3T and T5 transmission). We could do the same for the Various MPC/AMT FOX offerings. I was watching the very same kit Eric, but being on a road trip for work kept me from being there in time to bid on it! Whenever I can get any of the 1/24th (early) kits, I do! I think you do as much (or actually more) work on these kits as I do, Jason! I don't think I have one stock build going of ANY of the FOX kits!

The two you just got are the same kit with different decals. Same options, same build-up. As to the MPC/Monogram question.........everything is different between the two kits. The MPC Pace car has the Turbo4 and V8 option, the Monogram has just the V8. The MPC has the roof molded smooth with the cut lines for making it into a T-Top cast into the inside (you will see this in your MPC kits), the Monogram kit is a smooth roof. If you look at the chassis from any of the later Monogram (now Revell in re-issues) 1/24th kits, it is an exact copy of their Pace Car/Cobra issue. I have 5 of the Convertible 83-84 GLXs you mention, Stephen. I am ALWAYS looking for more at a reasonable price. To me, they are a GREAT starting point for many conversions (look at my T-Top Coupe for example). They are also good, when mixed with the roof from the Pace/Cobra to become a GLX/LX/GT hatch, or with some mods a good base for an 87-93LX Hatch. DO NOT be afraid to get the 83-84 verts......I recommend them (and may even be bidding against you sometime! )

Looking good Brodie. It helps motivation/detail-wise to have a real car to look at/drive/feel/enjoy doesn't it?

I'm just a FOX body/chassis nut altogether. Notch, hatch, droptop..........Capri, SVO, TurboCoupe; doesn't matter. Cheap, light, fast, and highly versatile. LOVE my FOXes.

Tony, The give-away for me (Jason I am sure will set me straight though!) is the shape of the doors and the SVO side spats (quarter window gills) and the lower rocker spats just in front of the rear wheel well openings (look closely, they appear to still be there). The trunk lid spoiler was reshaped (rounded) and filled to make the late-84 through 86 LX-GT/87-93LX hatch spoiler, and the 88-92 (kitted form anyway, the nose itself went from 87-93) nose and hood were added with the front header panel from the SVO body removed. You can make a better (note I did not say completely accurate) 87-93 GT by starting with the SVO, but replacing the quarter window area and hatch with that from a 1993 Cobra (if you want your 1991-93GT to be 'more correct', use the 1993 Cobra steering wheel as well) and the lower door/sill treatment from a GT convertible. Then, you would be best served to get the trunklid spoiler from an AMT 1/25th GT and stretch/reshape it to fit the 1/24th hatch. Lots of work. There are other ways, but the SVO has better body shape to start. Personally, and IF I ever do another GT conversion, I will again start with the 1993 Cobra body as a base for the conversion, add the SVO upper door area to it, graft the GT Convertible rear bumper and just the lower side sill to it. I will shave the behind-the-door portion of the Cobra body kit and scratch-build my own fake cooling duct. hopefully, I will already have my modified GT trunklid spoiler cast in resin, so I could just grab one up and drop it onto the build. Same with the small headrests and the correct steering column shape (both of which I am waiting to have cast in resin). Use the 1991GT convertible (Monogram original issue, same with the 1992GT convertible) Pony wheels and taillight panel. As to making an LX, Tony. I have theories and build parts lists, but you would have quite a bit of scratch building to do to get it correct. Best to start with the earlier 1979 Cobra kit, use parts from the various GT convertible kits, and be ready to heavily modify/scrathbuild the nose and taillights.

i will be there. Just put in for vacation and was approved. Who else is going?

Yes, the MAD kit is very nice and finely cast. I too like the 4-eye cars over the Aeros; I have 3 4-eyes and one Aero myself.

Converted from an SVO I see, Jason! What is stopping you from finishing?

Thanks guys; I will be getting more done tonight. to me, even working directly from measurements, the rear roof section looks to be to far slanted forward. I will have to get in there and square it up before I go too much further. Hopefully, I can have this body in primer (the first coat anyway) for Toledo NNL (October 8th).

Inaccuracies can be corrected, or worked around, Mike. Some of us (me included) just like to know what we are getting into and share that with others who may be about to take the same plunge.

Mike does indeed make a very good product, and we have talked at length about what I would need to start making copies of my own parts. He is easy-going and very helpful, and makes a sweet product to boot. Like I said, I too have all of his forced-induction set-ups, and do recommend them to anyone wanting these options. If I came/come across as rude, that is in the eyes of the reader, and sometimes even in the mind of the reader on the particular day it is being read. I have gone back and got two different vibes from the same post on different days. My mindset for that day was the only thing different. I will shed some light on the braces and shoestrings thing for you..............it was an attempt to make 'put your foot in your mouth' less harsh sounding. But back on topic here; I believe tho O.P received the information he was looking for. Hopefully, he is as happy with Shuckys' stuff as we all are.

Thanks Stephen. I think I have got a handle on the quarter window issue now (I am making completely new frames and gluing them to a stiffener with a perimeter lip. That way, when I attach them to the body, they will have 270* of glue joint.

Yeah, slipper belt (commonly called a V-Belt) You know, the 6-8 rib belt that is commonly used to spin the blower. Maybe you haven't heard them called slipper-belts, but when you start making big pressure and spinning the compressor at high RPMs, that belt starts slipping. Personally, I would run cogged on ANY Centrigugal Supercharger. Yes, you sacrifice a bit due to the friction of the cogs, but you gain in NO BELT SLIP! So, am I on now, and 'no such thing' huh? Thank you for playing.

Paul, you are correct on the valve cover bolts and the freeze plug location! As to the bellhousing; as far as I have seen/know, the bellhousing ridge/mating surface is the same as all of its' later big-block brothers.

Wider bore? Really, as in? What, more space between the cylinder bores? Hmm....so did the 350. What I was getting at Greg, externally, how do you tell? Let me know what your 'calibrated eye' can pick up on (I will give you a hint: it has something to do with the heads). Nice 69 Charger by the way. That would be either the 383 or 440, as the 361 was gone by then and the 400 hadn't come into the picture yet.

Posted Today, 03:46 AM Personally, I can vouch WHOLEHEARTEDLY For Shucky's( Mike DeLuca) products! You can look ANYWHERE, but for a resin cast extremely accurate clock-able Turbo, Mikes the ONLY way ta go! His race turbo's even come with a COGGED drivebelt for maximum performance! Mikes stuff is some of ,if not THE BEST turbo equipment available! Buy with safety AND confidence! Plus he's a Forum member brother! George Hernandez, on de banks ob de Deeetroit Ribber. George, do you post just to have something to say? If you are unable to differentiate between a Centrifugal Supercharger and a Turbocharger, you may want to refrain from posting and making yourself a set of braces with your shoestrings. Yes, Shucky (Mike) makes both, and they are even plainly labeled. His work is beautiful (as I have all 4 of his castings: street turbo, drag turbo, slipper-belt Procharger, and cogged-belt Procharger) and I will buy from him again.

383 Greg....you forgot (or just failed to quote) the REST of my post. The casting boss on the RB series engines on the drivers side front of the block.......not there in your pic. Thanks for playing though, but your point is moot on me. I have been around Mopar for too many years of my life to NOT be able to identify certain things. Ok Greg, since you are on that subject, how can you tell a 350-early 361 from the later 361-383-400s?

Hey Tony, thanks for the encouraging words. I know what you mean on the T-Top situation, as I too use the roof edges as T-Top edges (pretty much how Cars & Concepts did it when they converted these cars), but with a slight twist. Instead of butting the glass right up to the edge, make a notch into the edge the entire length (#11 blade and a tape-line to hold the edge). Then, Micro Krystal Klear glue the glass into the notch you just made (be sure to cut your glass pattern a hare long to provide fitment/trimming length). This adds considerable strength to the glass/edge union.

Now, just the T-Top Coupe by her lonesome.........she isn't anywhere near ready for the FIRST coat of primer yet. , , All comments are welcome, and encouraged. I am currently working on getting new Quarter Window (Gill) Spats made as the only available units (in 1/24th) are Hatchback units. This thing has been fighting me even just to this stage, but I will press on. Being a poor scratch-builder doesn't help my cause any either! looks like I will be re-doing the quarter window cases as well, as they broke apart on me when I dry-installed the top for test-fitting. I have more pics of all the cuts/stages so far, if anyone really cares to look through them.

Alright, group picture here (OK, maybe a few pictures). These are just what is sitting on my kitchen table at the moment, not counting what are also on the bedroom desk or in the closet. , , , , Well, those are the 5 currently occupying my time; the 1983 GLX vert for this CBP, the 1991GT conversion (also for this CBP), a Faleen (as the wheels are 6 spoke versus 5, the body molding is GT versus LX, and the front end is Cobra...even though I am working on the correct Saleen lower), an 85 SVO with 2008 Bullitt wheels, and my current 1983 T-Top coupe project in its' very infancy.