whale392

I parted out a Bill Blass Edition (already at the salvage yard) for most of her underpinnings, along with a Mark Cross edition for its' distinctive hued 16" Speedline Meshes!

I see you finished her up, Stephen! I like the end result, it will look good displayed.

Wow, after reading half of the replies here, I can honestly see why you all build models instead of real cars. The LACK of proper chassis/suspension design/application knowledge here is staggering. Glad I don't have to be beside most of you at the track, or to and from the track for that matter. Not saying I am any better, but my background in auto racing sure seems to help my understanding of chassis set-ups/balance/power-to-weight ratios.

Be advised, the Resin bed from the Modelhaus is in SE trim, which means it has the chrome stripe along the lower beltline and the AdventurerSE emblems cast on. It is a GREAT piece (I have one to do just the same conversion) and worth the money. A little thick in the floor and wheel-well areas, but blemish free and very nice! You will have to make the motor mounts, but the Hemi/440/383 from any of the Revell kit will fit nicely between the fenderwells! As a side note, I decided to leave the AdventurerSE chrome stripe and emblem on mine, and add the chrome to my 78 LRE cab, converting it to the SE trim level and building it that way!

I loved the Daytona we had, and it was a great car for what it was. Believe it or not, I would like to acquire another one and build a street killer out of it. 2.2L/2.5L stroker, IROC head, one of my Holset turbos, that spare EVO9 intercooler I have in the garage, 5spd, and Caravan brakes.........fun little pocket-rocket! Enough on my 1:1 desires; your Daytona looks great and I like the color scheme. Something I can see myself driving.

Starting to look like a Lincoln, Chuck! If you are looking for a suitable engine bay, the 1/24th Monogram Thunderbird TurboCoupe has a great one, and it is already the correct length to go into the Lincoln. I hit that site up when I wired the 3G alternator into my 91GT Mustang; great site for reference and tech for the car!

As Dave stated, the reason the Mustang has a solid axle is BECAUSE 99% of the Mustang driving group WANTS IT. Drag racers swap back to a Live Axle because it is more durable and dependable launch-wise than the IRS. Road guys will spend about what a good IRS costs to set their live axles up to articulate BETTER than the IRS. The added weight of the IRS can be seen as both a plus and a negative. The complexity is a negative to most US buyers. If IRS were so good, it would be in the car, but it isn't. Ford isn't BMW and has an entirely different client base. Yeah, you naysayers are right. Who needs 650 docile horsepower as a daily driver? (insert roll-eyes sarcastic smiley here) Guess you didn't need 450hp LS6 Chevelles and 425HP Hemis either. But that is what defined an era of American performance. Wow, some of you guys really are wearing blinders aren't you?

Looks like you are off to a good start, Stephen.

^^^ Steering is VERY slow just for these speeds. Even rail dragsters have a slowed steering because of the immense forces acting on the wheels at their speeds. One oversteer and you ARE dead. But to answer the original question: they wouldn't even have to ask me before I would be suited up and in the cockpit!

Casey does excellent wheels; I have 4 sets of the 'Modern Magnums' and a few other sets he does. VERY clean castings, well worth the price of admission. I am looking at sending a few sets out for chrome plating here shortly.

Nah, too much money to be made even though the ride height was off to quit! No complaining here; I am glad they are still at the Mustang game, honestly!

Thanks for the clarification, Mike! All i have is the SC kit, so that is what I based my thoughts on. As to the intake fabbing, square and round stock look to be the order of the day there!

Talk to Casey, he casts a set of 'Modern Magnum' wheels in 20" that look VERY close to the 2003-04 Mach1 wheel. Tell him I sent you!

Sadly, the only way to get the stance where it needs to be is to do inner wheel well surgery to move them in/up enough to fit the wheels/tires like they should be. I find it odd that you can slam the real car almost to her rocker panels but you can't even get a realistic ride height out of the model.............great job on scaling the chassis, Revell.

The Bullitt would require converting the 1999 Cobra lower front bumper back to a GT Bumper (might be able to use the earlier 94-95 with some slight mods grafted to the 99 upper) and a hood scoop modified from one of the 87-89GT Mustangs from AMT/MPC and sit on the modified Cobra hood. Wheels could be either the 2008 Bullitts with a slight lip added or a set of aftermarket Torques. As to the Mach 1, well.............I am still working on a parts list/fit for that!

I too got a can of the GM 'Fathom Green' to use on my Bullitt (before the Bullitt kit was available). I later discovered that they offered the correct color in bottles, so I ordered it and shot it through the airbrush. Both of those substitute colors look good, and right for a display model! Heck, I can't tell British Racing Green from Fathom Green from Highland Green unless they were sitting side-by-side anyway! The color you have will work just fine, Stephen. I wouldn't know any different with it sitting in front of me.

Auto-zone can usually have it next-day if ordered before noon. If you aren't in a super-rush for it, go that route and be 'right color'. If not, use what you have!

Chuck, I think you meant the MN-12 Thunderbird SC for the V6, correct?

Looking good Jonathan! The paint looks very smooth and the interior looks nice with the carpeting added. Stephen, the Dupli-Color paint number (for the 2001 Highland Green Metallic) is DUPNGFM372, and it comes in the .5oz bottles. It should make it easier for the counter guys to look it up and order it. The factory paint code for the 2001 Bullitt shade is PY, and that is what Dupli-color sells. Hope that helps.

Dupli-color does have the Highland Green Metallic in their stock, but only in the touch-up bottles. I had to order it from Auto-Zone, and I ordered 3 bottles just to be safe!

Take all the time you need, Niko. We aren't going anywhere soon (I hope!). The dark body is an MPC kit, and for their time, the body proportions were great. they really lacked in the interior/chassis detail department to say the VERY least. However, their 2.3L 4cyl engine wasn't bad. a lot of guys (me included) will grab the chassis from later (1994-98) Mustang GTs/Cobras in 1/25th scale from either AMT or Revell/Monogram to cut down to fit these bodies. Doing that yields a much better chassis/engine bay. The interior just has to have a butt-load of scratchbuilding done to make it resemble what it should be.

You could say us FOX guys have a disease, Chuck. We are almost as bad as the 57 Chevy guys in that we really know our full-size cars AND all of the scale variants of them!

Jason, you are correct on it being the McLaren issue. The give-away is in one of the early pics of it on its' side. You can see where the 'vents' in the hood were for the Turbo4 heat extractors. I didn't see them until you said something about the Orange plastic (mine are cast in Red, and the turbo Capri is cast in Silver/Grey). The kit is entirely wrong for the real McLaren M81s/EnduroGTs though, and is best built as a 'What-if' Mustang/Capri hybrid!

Wow Niko, those were obliterated. To say they are glue bombs is an understatement. They look like they were targets on the bombing range! I guess we here have it easier, as I don't think I would have even tried to save either of them. The Orange kit is a Revell 'Turbo Cobra' kit (also issued one time here as a 'Turbo Capri RS'. It has been re-issued so many times by Revell that you almost trip over it at any given 'Box Store' (when they carried models) and E-Bay is littered with them. I have 4 in my closet in various stages of build, plus one Capri version (those are a LOT harder to find).It also was issues as the McLaren M81 Turbo. The Black car looks to be an MPC issue from 1982. It has been re-issued in a few different stripe/decal configurations, and it too is still plentiful on Ebay and some of our model shows. Of the two, the MPC kit was the better of the two. I have at least 10 of the MPC kits in the closet, along with the 1983-84GT and the various SVO releases from MPC. Great bodies, just wonky suspensions/engine bays. I like what you have started to do with the 'C' car, and wish you the best with the 'D' car as it was pretty far gone! Funny, here in the states, the larger the engine/horsepower to weight ratio, the lower the letter (e.g: SS/A is Hemi Darts/Cudas, SS/B is Hemi Belvederes and Coronets......). Looks like it is somewhat backwards (from American eyes anyway!) there. Keep at the builds, and we'll keep looking in on them.

^^^ VERY NICE cast wheels, so he would be the guy to listen to on advice^^^