whale392

Would you consider Porsche 911s/930s/930SEs as imports?

Josh, have you tried Easy-Off oven cleaner (yellow can) to remove the paint? I can tell you now, even it had a hard time with Dupli-color, as the paint actually stained the plastic (but, I didn't use a primer either, so that might have something to do with it). It was the ONLY thing that did end up taking it off, though. Mike, your paint ills and mine seem to ride in the same car! I too have problems with touching up small areas (and burning through clear into decals when polishing). Overall, once the hood paint finally co-operates, I think your GT500 will look good and be worth the time you have put into it. I have just finished the gathering stage (well, still waiting on Casey to get back with me for some of his parts) of my 2010GT build, so I will be starting on it soon....maybe next week at the latest. I promise it will suck and NOT be worth looking at!

Thanks for that link, Mike. I will have to print that article and template as I have several motorcycles in 1/24th-1/25th scale that could also benefit from that tutorial.

Thanks for your wonderful insight into this kit, Virgil. Gregg, the breakdown-by-sprue pics are a good reference for what to expect in the box, as Revell has it packed pretty tight in there. I got to see the Box Art car (as well as the production box top) at the Toledo NNL, and the car on the table was the one shot for the box top art. It was well done, the box top gives it no credit and does it no justice. For those familiar with the 2010GT kit, it is based from that and will have the same issues with tires/wheels/wheel houses as the GT. These kits are even harder to lower in the front than the 2005-2009 versions, the back is roughly the same. Overall, the kit is a nice piece of work from Revell (same as their 2010GT), and will build up nice. One suggestion is to trim the wheels of their tire locating lugs/ridge and use the Pegasus Hobbies 225/45-18 or 245/45-18 tires on these rims. They greatly reduce un-needed sidewall height and lend a better scale look to the wheel-tire package. Of note (at least to me anyway) is the fact that the hood air extractor is cast separately from the hood. Nice touch Revell, and just because of that I have purchased multiple copies of this kit!

Darin, IF the BUYER had read the shipping instructions/preferences, he would have seen that John DOES NOT ship internationally, Continental USA ONLY. Regardless of Johns E-Bay options to set shipping preferences, it is the BUYERS responsibility to make sure the seller will ship to them, NOT the other way around. Careful reading makes the need to 'set' preferences null and void. Or, Darin, are you one of those guys who believes that we need to cater to the lowest common denominator and lower ourselves to HAVING to set protections for ourselves. Thinking like that has been what has put this nation into the hole it is in. When do people take responsibility for their actions instead of having others set the responsibility themselves?

Jonathan, I can see where you are coming from as well. Both sides of this have points, and both have a valid argument. True, you do not have to have love for the subject to enact a CBP out of it, as I am not really too thrilled with the MustangII. However, as it does deserve the love, and we had the other generations represented, it seemed like the logical thing to do. I am now trying to get all of my kit facts in order so that I know what kit is the best to start with, for that build. I don't really care for the S197 Chassis, as I see it in the same light as the 71-73 Mustangs (fat, bloated, and just too darn big). However, they do have some very nice looks, and power the original generation Pony only wet-dreamed of! I participate because I too have a few of these kits, and a lot of the guys who participate in all of the Mustang CBP threads are what I would consider internet friends. We can all have a civilized conversation (drama-free) and exchange ideas and info. That can be a basis for a CBP all unto itself...........just a quest for kit/real auto info can lead to some cool CBP ideas. I am not a Porsche fan by any means, but there is just SOMETHING about the late-70s through late-80s 911s and their variants (930 slants, Turbos, RS3.0s, RSs) that I just love. Have I started a CBP on them yet? No, as I don't know enough about the cars to be helpful. But, I can see it taking off and me learning a lot by being involved with it. I am a FOX Mustang fan, and started that CBP from a love of the cars. We all have been able to share our 1:1 knowledge and our own builds, along with offering advice and tips on working with the scale chassis (this includes the SN95 guys too!). This is why I can see both sides of the argument, because I am on both sides. If you feel like starting another CBP (just like you did the S197 thread), go for it. Just as Jason says, do it and see who joins in. It can be both amazing and heartbreaking when you see it grow, or wither on the vine. Don't be scared, Jonathan. We really are a community here, moreso than just the randomness of the 'On The Workbench' section.

No it wouldn't as all of the Bullitt specific stuff is available aftermarket (and even some still through Ford).

I do have a kit of my 1965 Dodge Coronet500 convertible sitting in the closet (my first car, and one I still own too).

Had I have known you would like pics of the trailers, I would have snapped some from this weekend. We have them transit I-70 here all the time, and 3 were stopped at the rest area Eastbound between Dayton and Columbus. Looks like it is time for me to keep the camera in the vehicle!

The problem John is having is when the auction plainly states 'Continental U.S shipping ONLY', and then a foreign buyer bids/wins and expects overseas shipping. All this garbage about 'what's wrong with Brazil' and 'I ship to Brazil' is a waste in this thread, as that is NOT the thought process behind the thread. What part of Continental UNITED STATES was too hard to comprehend?

Jonathan, Jason doesn't mean any harm with what he said, he is looking at it from the pure reasoning for a CBP standpoint. I started the FOX CBP thread as a way to get some FOX Fords going, and to give us guys who love these cars a place to hang out, exchange info on both the real cars and kit forms of them, and garner/swap building tips from/with other builders. I open-ended it as I believed (and others PMed me with the same belief) that limiting the timeframe was doing the community a great dis-service. I opened the other threads for similar reasons, to give guys a place to do the same with the newer 'Stangs. The whole premise behind a CBP should be because you have a fondness for the subject. I don't care how many posts it gets, or even how often I myself post in my own threads. It is about being able to see what others are working on, and to exchange ideas and passions for the subject. That is all Jason is trying to say. Find something near and dear to your heart and go from there. You see the S197 thread is working out well as guys love these cars. THAT is what you have to go with, love of the subject.

I noticed the same thing, Dave. I was even going to go so far as to cut/relocate the front inner fenders up some, to help cure some of that problem. Same with the rears, only move them up/in for proper fit of wheels/tires. Rick, the hood is the same between 1999-2004 V6/GT/Bullitt. What is different is the hood scoop. locate just the scoop, drill the holes in the hood (there are already some spots on the underside of the hood to go by) and bolt the scoop down on. I did this with a friends 2002 V6, along with the trunk spoiler (as his car had neither when new). He now has the 'Pony Edition' or GT look without the 'Pony' grill/decals or the GT goodies.

Jimmy, did I ever tell you that your work amazes me?

Very cool indeed! Love the paint and the interior detail. I will have to remember the Coke bottle tutorial from your W.I.P thread!

Black will show body prep flaws more than other colors will, so getting a good Black job means you have to have PERFECT body work under it. Dark colors will show any flaws, and trash in the paint. Light colors hide both. Your approach is sound, as achieving a smooth paint job with Black will make your other color-shots better. Then again, I am not one to give advice, as I can't/haven't finished a model in YEARS!

Paint looks good Stephen. You will have to modify the GT500 Grill (or make your own) to fit the hood with the stock GT nose.

Happy Thanksgiving indeed. Stop and truly appreciate what we have to be thankful for.

Joseph, we mix ours 2 parts paint to 1 part activator, then use the reducer to thin it to the consistency of milk. It shoots very smooth right from my gun, and once I cut it and polish it (it is single-stage paint) it looks better than what came on the aircraft.

Dave, I think you and I have a lot of the same ideas bouncing around in our beans..............and with the resurgence of 'tribute' cars, these could be viable market cars!

Ok, Thanks to DoubleD and some scavenging, I think I have everything I need to start an S197 build. I will take inventory here soon and start the story, and maybe the build as well.

Depends on the paint manufacturers recommendations for paint/activator mix ratios. Our Epoxy primer is 1:1, our Deso-thane (urethane) topcoat is 2:1 mix rate. As to the reducer, when shooting on my aircraft, I thin to the consistency of Milk, test on spare paper, and adjust my guns air/paint mix to get a thin, even coating (a very fine mist).

I know this really won't help you much, but I get mine from a paint jobber (paint supply house) and I usually can get it for about $10 a pint. Also, depending on who is behind the counter, I trade information for paint (one of the counter guys has a P71 Panther and I will help him with it). Talk to some of the paint guys, as I have even got some mixed for nothing just because it was a small amount.

Jason cast those for this project, and I remembered he and I had discussed maybe casting them for future use/sale. I don't know if He is going to, but I can see a market for them (hint, hint Jason! )

Awesome, Rodney!

Tamiya clears seem to work for the vast majority, including me.