whale392

Those look as nice as your 1/24th-1/25th wheels, Casey! If they are, I just might have to pick up one of these 'Big Boys' and go all out on it.

That is what I am saying, it is a matter of perspective. I have seen guys toss $100 of aftermarket goods at a $15 kit and still have junk, and I have also seen guys take the same kit and BUILD a wonderful piece from it. Accuracy and correctness will cost you though, in either initial cost, your time to correct it, or on aftermarket parts to bring it up to acceptable levels. I just spent $75.00 a piece for 3 models of the aircraft I worked on (E2-C Hawkeye and the C2-A Greyhound), plus another $200 on resin aftermarket goodies to render it to a higher level of detail/correct. I am also using a lot of my old notes and pictures to get other details correct. I don't have an aversion to spending what I need to to make it what I want. My perspective. Like I said earlier, a lot of car guys don't have that willingness to take it to the next level, whether it be in financial or time. And I don't hear armor guys complain about kit prices near as much as car guys. You can buy a nice Revell 1/48th scale F/A-18 Hornet for a small entry price, or you can step up your spending and get the Hasagawa/Tamiya 1/48th scale Hornet and be FAR ahead of the Revell kit. Your call. Same with cars. Never mind. As Terry said, those who get it, get it. Those that don't never will and will continue to belly-ache for no good reason.

I don't think (now, take this as it is: my speculation and nothing more) that we will see a Coyote tooled until Revell has exhausted all of the possibilities for the 4.6L/5.4L drive train. I can see some re-tooling to (maybe) create the 2013 GT500, a 2010 GT Convertible full-detail and a 2010 GT500 Convertible full detail (by combining their snap-tite basic body with their various glue offerings). Once the tooling reach for the Modular is exhausted, then we might see (note I said MIGHT) some Coyote versions based on retooling existing chassis/sheetmetal with the new engine. Give Revell some time and see what they/Ford will come up with/allow (seeing as the Coyote is Fords new/future engine platform).

Did I say 'All' car modelers were cheap? No. Read it again, this time without jaded eyes. No malice meant, just a good hard slap of reality. If there are those who can't deal with the reality of the situation and decide to lash out, well; that is their prerogative. The way I see it (and this is merely my view and IS NOT open for debate) is very black and white: you pay for quality or you work with what you have/are able to. If you choose to complain and have the means to buy better right off the bat, your best bet is to 'put up or shut up'. If you only have a very limited means, work within that and go as you can. That simple really. Or, there is the third method, start with a lower range kit and turn it from that sows ear into a purse. Those who do that WITHOUT COMPLAINING have my respect. Aircraft/Armor guys do it all the time, and nary a complaint. As a matter of fact, they revel in the fact they did the conversion/upgrade and came out the better for it. Maybe it's time auto modelers took a page of scale etiquette from our Air/Armor/Rail brothers. Instead of being viewed as the social misfit/shut-in cheapskate that is so common a stereotype of auto modelers, we need to elevate our thinking/build/investment in the hobby.

That borders on lazy. I build both military and auto. Add in H-O scale railroading and I have the bases pretty well covered. One of the reasons I rarely finish anything is I am looking to make it as realistic as possible. I will figure out how to re-engineer a car kit to fit the larger wheels and still retain a somewhat functional suspension (albeit I quite often will lay it right down on the rubber, but it will look right when viewed as all suspension bits have been modified to be 'functional'). My H-O and (when I was into it) N-scale stuff was also held to a high level of realism. I have no real need or room for crud modeling. By profession, I am held to a very high level of attention to detail, as if I fail to do so, people can DIE. My job is very detail-oriented, and so too is anything I do as a hobby. Laziness is NOT an operating motive. Get it right or don't to it at all. Now, as to Terrys' original intent of the thread. As car modelers (as a whole), we are extremely cheap. We are lazy with our money and lax with our standards. However, there is a group of car modelers who are of the same mind-set as our military brothers. They strive for accuracy and overall fit/finish. Too often though, they are lambasted and ridiculed by the at-large-masses for being that way. Too often a truly nice kit COULD be done, but the cheapskates complain about the MSRP of the kit. Get off your stinginess and pony up for quality. Too few car guys see the forest through all the darn trees. You want a highly detailed kit? Invest in it by paying for the development. Buy the quality kits and the manufacturers will listen (again, see our military brothers). You all piss and moan about a $25.00 kit, but will spend over $100 on photoetch and aftermarket goodies to bring it up to the level of a $100 kit. Why not just spend the $100 to begin with and get the far better kit? Simple really, Laziness and Cheapskate attitude. If I ruffled any feathers, good. I full well meant to. Terry (and Harry as well) are completely correct about auto modelers as a whole. If you can't stand that reflection looking back at you, do something to change it. Simple words really. P.S: Terry, I'll catch you over at ARC!

Also, the newest re-issue of the F250 from Revell/Monogram has a 460 in it as well.

"But there's no stock VW wheels and tires" (rolls eyes) I can see a lot of potential from this old kit, and am glad to see it back. Kit-Bash this baby with some VW/Porsche kits and have an endless field day with it.

Gee, Lane, I don't know what's up with Revell. But maybe I can venture an educated guess, actually knowing a little about the REAL cars. Since the body is pretty much the same between the 2010 and its' later year brothers, why not do it with the 4.6L first. Let's see, the 201GT uses the 4.6L 3-valve, the GT500 still uses the 5.4L Supercharged mill............yup, sounds like Revell actually did their homework on this. They can get two more releases using the new body with the 4.6L/5.4L drivetrain before having to kit up the new 5.0L drivetrain. And, considering the 2013 GT500 will have a powertrain STILL BASED ON THE 5.4L (but will now be up to 5.8L), there is yet ONE MORE derivitive of this kit before new tooling is required. I am glad Revell listens to their market researchers instead of the few who nit-pick. I will give Revell the time they need to develop the new 5.0L Coyote engine. As popular as the real cars are, you can bet it WILL happen in scale. After all, they finally released the 2007 GT500 in when?

I was looking for some good block-only pics, but they seem to be almost non-existent without going into the many Mustang forums. While the bore spacing is the same between the Coyote and the modular family, not much else is the same. Firing order changed (back to the Flathead firing order from the 351 firing order), front timing cover became structurally ribbed for strength, the 5.0 received piston squirters, head bolt location/configuration changed....... If you are building a model that will be installed deep into the kit, you could start with the 4.6/5.4 blocks currently available and make the needed changes to the heads/valve covers/front dress/intake, as that is what will be seen in detail anyway.

4.6L DOHC 5.0L Coyote

I have one of the last re-issues and it was a little bit hard for me to get. Now, with this re-issue, I can easily accomplish my goal (thanks to still having the 56 Nomad as well). Really? No stock tires equals no sale? Good on you; that leaves more for those who will really build them instead of belly-ache about the tires. If it hurts you so bad, I have 4 sets of the stock tires I will gladly GIVE you. Your lives must be drab indeed if you have nothing better to do than whine about no stock tires in a NON-STOCK KIT.

Keep this in mind (with regards to scale of wire), .010" is roughly 1/4" in 1/24th-1/25th scale. Most fuel lines are between 1/4" to 3/8", so .016" wire (28 gauge) will do nicely. You can find it at most places that sell jewelry-craft pieces (Hobby Lobby and Micheals here in the states for example).

Getting closer to finishing her up, Mike! Looking good. OK, if any of you guys are contemplating lowering the 2010GT or GT500; there are two ways to do so. 1) Get the snapper, make the GT or GT500 a curbside and use the chassis from the snap kit. 2) Pack a lunch, some razor saws, lots of courage and Fine-tip Sharpies, a good bit of putty and files/sandpaper, boo-coo glue, and a heaping helping of 'HOLY COW' preventative. These things are a mother to get sitting 'right' (read: as low as the real cars can go). The front takes massive surgery to the fender wells/frame caps/shock towers to even get remotely close to workable. I have been sitting here, doing measurements and marking them out with the sharpie marker. The darn things look like a checkerboard of 'cut this much out here' and 'file this here', along with 'relocate this to here'. I put the firewall into the engine bay temporarily to get a good look at the whole package, and all I can say is that I am taking the interior pan/engine bay-front inner fender assembly to work with me to try to figure out how I am to butcher this. I am bringing a lot of styrene too, as it will be a need. The chassis side is easier; just take the k-member mounting tabs on the frame rails and shave them down to about 1/3 their original height. I will post pics when I make some appreciable progress with the cutting/relocating.

Turned out real nice, Jonathan! Watched it all the way through the CBP and it was looking good then, even with the troubles you had with it. In the end, a good looking Bullitt!

Almost looks like 'Colors by Boyd' Pacific Blue. I shot a Ghia that color (with a Pearl topcoat) and loved it. Took forever to dry though. Looks good with the lines of this car.

Be ready when you do find a P1800 in resin (and yes it was one of our Finnish/Swede brothers who either cast it or had info on the cast). It goes for above $100 USD and still needs a lot of clean-up and a donor chassis/drivetrain once it gets to you.

Reminds me of a Tide bottle! Fade looks good, especially for it being in a wreck

.093" is HUGE for primaries! .062" is roughly 1.5" in 1/25th scale and about what most primaries are. But, to answer your original question, look to Radio Shack or any Electronics repair section of some home repair stores. They usually have several sizes of solder available. DO NOT get the acid-core stuff, rosin core is safer, and silver solder is by far the best to use. Hope that helped a little.

Interesting about the overseas 'Export' cars. One thing I did see on the model (and please don't kill me for this) is the valve covers are on upside-down. Other than that, it looks like a good start.

We post it all here, between W.I.Ps and major/minor updates to just asking questions about the kits. That's the good thing about these particular CBPs, they seem to be quite a bit more open to dialog and free-flowing build times/sharing than other areas. Feel free to post whatever you have going on your builds.

I see an Indy Pace sitting behind/off to the side of this current work! Liking it so far, and thanks for posting. We have a FOX Chassis (Ford) CBP thread going down in that section. Stroll on by sometime.

Welcome to the show, Kieth. Never late when the show has no end-time!

It is probably on page 2 by now, but it is still active. It has no end date, so whenever someone adds anything to the CBP, it brings it back to the top of the page. All SN95s are welcome!

I love the SVOs. I own a 1:1 1984 TurboGT, the SVOs little brother, and have a spare drivetrain (from a wrecked 1986 Merkur XR4Ti) that I am building up to go down into it. If you feel so inclined, come on down to the CBP section of the forum and look around in the FOX Chassis (Ford) CBP thread.

The Bullitt looks good, Jonathan. I think the color came out pretty nice on it! Josh, you know it's all going to come back on you! You'll just have to repair the damage to the Mustangs and move on! Just don't submit the claim to your insurance.....