whale392

All 1964.5-1973s are welcome. Come on in!

I was going to ask about the lips! VERY beautiful 350Z, and I think I will use it as inspiration to finish mine (started when the kit was new).

I started the story a page or two back, Mike. I am basing it loosely (veeeeerrrrryyyyyy loosely) on me and what I would do in life had I made a career change.

Super Stallion engine and stripped wheels, I see (or at best, guess). Looking good so far. Slip this one down into the SN95 CBP thread going!

I have close to 1400 kits myself, plus all the supplies to go with them. P.S: If you feel like getting rid of some, I will take that Monogram 'Cafe Racer' Mustang pictured!

You will most likely have to scratchbuild. I have seen maybe one or two hoods (cowl at that) for the 1999-2004 (New Edge) cars, and don't remember seeing any for the early SN95 (1994-98) cars.

Welcome back, Mike. Took a page from you and am working on a back-story for my 2010GT build. I always liked to read (even if I never commented) your McNally stories and watch the builds progress. Thanks for the literary inspiration! Jonathan, the color looks a LOT closer than the color you started with, Looks good in the sunlight (and warm.....something us northern guys are not going to get for the next 5 months!).

Looks like an excuse for me to come home for a few days! I am a Kissimmee boy, and now my family lives in St.Cloud. Been to Disney more that I care to remember.

Jonathan, If you are going for the utmost accuracy, use the Dupli-Color touch-up bottle paint by the name of Highland Green Metallic (Ford paint code PX, Dupli-Color product code NGFM372), as it is correct for the Bullitt shade. Just be sure to lay down a layer of Future before you apply color-coat or it will craze the plastic (my attempt at a 2006 Bullitt wears crazed paint because of this). If close will do you up right, use the Model Master Lacquer System GM Emerald Green Metallic (#28119) over a black base. It will get you very close to the Ford color. Either way, use a quality clear over it, as they both come out somewhat satin (well, the Dupli-Color more than the MM). Chuck, Did you say snow? We have seen a little bit here, but nothing lasting yet! Hope that stuff doesn't stick around, as this Florida Boy just don't like it!

Stephen, gotta tell you man, those seats look GOOD! I like the contrast between the leather/vinyl shell and the perforated inlays; did you do that with Semi-gloss and Flat paints (black)? Or is it some other color you used on the inlays? Jonathan, this is only my opinion, so take it as you will. The green just looks too light. Highland Green is a fairly dark shade. However, it is your build and what you do with it is the product of what you have to work with. I like the progress so far.

You know how you can remove the inner front fender straps on the frame and take a hair off the body-side inner fender wells on the '05-09 kits to drop them? Definitely not as easy on the '10 kits. But, being as the engine bay/inner wheel well detail was cast as part of the interior and not the body (as the 05-09s were), I think I have found a way. I will be cutting the inner fender wells away from the interior tub just above where they meet the framerails, leaving a thin bit of plastic sticking forward. Take the interior tub, tape it to the chassis so that those thin strips remaining of the inner wheel wells stay square and parallel to the frame rails, and adding some styrene to the strips of inner wheel house left (to add height to the inner fender wells). Next, I will shave the tops of the inner fender wells down (test fitting along the way) until they fit between the modified inner base and the body (without the shock towers touching the hood). Then, glue the inner fender wells back onto the now raised lower portions of the wells and frame. After al is secure, modify the firewall ends to fit the new position of the inner fenders, and take the dremel and thin out the material at the shock towers an in the wheel wells until it is thin enough to clear the tires. looking at it, this method will be good for roughly .040"-.060" of drop, maybe a bit more. Add the .020" that can be taken out material-wise when thinning the inner fender material, and you can accommodate a better wheel/tire and have roughly an .080" workable drop (2" in scale).

Stephen, I do the same thing! if I were running a 'body-in-white' shop, I'd never run out of product I have to do some careful measuring and cutting, but I think I found a way to get the front end lower and the front tires tucked into the wheel wells (it doesn't look the easiest, so if I fail, I fail). I will report back (with pictures and an explanation) whether I succeed or fail.

I just got looking at my glue kits this morning (getting the '10GT ready for surgery) and noticed that its interior pan has the posts hanging down off the package tray, just like the snap 'vert does. Looks like we don't need to trim those off after all.

No, Lee, it is I whom need to read. I see where he mentions the Hemi head being prototyped on the aircraft engine. My apologies to all. And hell no I won't drink decaf, that's like beer without the alcohol...what's the point?

Thanks for that tutorial. It will come in VERY handy for a bunch of us. On a side note, if any of you work in industrial areas/for industrial companies, their safety department should get a catalog twice a year from a company that sells signs/tape/gear. We get them at the hangar. They are full of signs (being as they have a visual reference with a part number and price below them. They, for the most part, are roughly 1/24th-1/25th scale already! I cut what I need out and glue them to a sheet of .005" aluminum or .010" styrene and age as you describe. Whenever my company is done with theses catalogs, I grab them!

Medium Gray primer was used on the real cars (think of your standard 2K Gray primer), but I think by using a slightly darker primer on the model, it enhances the panel lines and depth of the body panel creases/lines. I love the work you all are putting in on these scale renditions of the S197, and going into the 'what if' realm. THAT is why I like this little corner of MCM we have going (the Mustang CBP threads), the ideas and freedom to talk to one another about them. Now, as to my entry: I am starting with the Revell 2010 Mustang GT Coupe. Along the lines of our own MrMike, I will be doing a storyline (fictional for the most part) of how the 'real' car came to be, along with documenting the build. Photos will accompany the build process, and will be interjected with the story. So, who's up for some S197 storytelling? The Story (pt 1) I got tired of working on airplanes, and tired of Ohio in general. Deciding I needed something different and being involved in automobiles my whole life anyway, I decided to use the remainder of my G.I Bill to help fund an Engineering degree, specializing in automotive and powertrains at that. Driving around in my trusty old FOX Mustang, I knew I wanted to apply to Ford when I finished. 4 years and a lot of sleepless weeks later, I have my degree, still tooling around in my Fox. Telling PSA Airlines that sand can be packed, I headed 3 hours north (wrong direction for a Florida Cracker to head) to see what I can do in Detroit. Applied to Ford, and was hired! Great, I am in! So, 2 years into Ford and designing brackets for front dress (not what I had hoped for), I went to my bosses to see what I could do about getting onto 'Team Mustang'. I was told to go back to my Focus project. That does it, I will show these guys what it is to be me! Kicking around the salvage yards and Insurance claim pools, I stumbled upon a theft-recovery 2010GT Mustang Coupe.........but man was it rough. Missing the drivetrain, computer, wiring harness, seats, and wheels/tires/brakes, it had been stripped. Front end and hood were pretty bent up from where the tow-truck driver had stated it was driven/dumped into the ravine. Trunk spoiler was absolutely a mess, and some of it was even missing. All in all, a write-off. After some words and cash exchanged hands, I had the base for my 'project'. Tony wanted $20 and a six-pack to flatbed this shell back to my place....deal! I'll have to butter up the landlord later. As I sit and stare at the car, I get this idea. It will take work, sleepless nights, and maybe even some petty thievery, but I know what I want to do and I WILL DO IT! I see a tribute Mach1 in this shells future! Let the games begin. The build: I will spare you the 'Body-in-white' over wheels and box-art pics (besides, Photobucket is being a real pain for uploading pics right now). You all know what they look like anyway. I will be blending elements from the 1969, 1970, and 2003-04 Mach1s into this build, along with some real Ford thinking behind the Mach1. Color will be one that hasn't been seen for quite some time, either 1993 Calypso or 1969 Diamond Green with a Pearl added. I will update this as it goes. Already, I have the grill opened (much as Chuck has shown, but I will leave mine open with just the running horse logo in it (ala 2003-04 Mach1 style), the rear trunk spoiler holes and gas cap hole filled (but not smoothed), and the hood in basic cuts for the 'Shaker' scoop to poke through (ala 1969 and 2003-04).

Art, you are incorrect on the development of Chryslers' Hemi head. They experimented with it DURING the war, as is testimented to by the Walter p. Chrysler museum having both the tank and aircraft engines IN THEIR CARE. But thanks for the rest of the 'history' lesson. Ok, now where'd I set my beer at?

I know Arts 'Credentials', that is why I made the comment, thank you. Now, as stated..............................................

Wrong Funkster, Plymouth DID NOT get the first-generation Hemis stock. the pecking order went (Highest-to-lowest): Imperial, Chrysler, Desoto, Dodge, Plymouth. Walter P. Chrysler started with his own namesake line of 'luxury' cars, then bought the Dodge Brothers (who themselves had recently acquired Graham Truck) in 1926. forming the Plymouth Brand as an entry-level auto was done a few years later. When Desoto started to encounter some financial difficulties, Chrysler bought them up and held then until somewhere into the early 60s. Imperial was conceived as an Ultra-Luxury brand to take on the likes of Packard and Rolls-Royce late in the Twenties. As such, Plymouth got the Poly engines, while Dodge (being the sport line from Chrysler) received the small (for their respective year) Hemis, then Desoto (being the sport-luxury line from Chrysler) got the next-step cid Hemis. Finally, Chrysler got the top-line cid Hemis (being the luxury brand). Imperial also received the top-line engines (always did until Chrysler dissolved the Imperial name). Now, with that said, Imperial NEVER got the second-generation Hemi. The Chrysler line didn't either, relying on the B and RB series engines for power. HERE is when Plymouth and Dodge both got the Hemi (limited to one cid....426) If you feel like PROVING me wrong, go for it. I will admit I am not always right, but being as I grew up Chrysler, born to a Hemi owning and driving father, who himself was born to a Chrysler man, I think I MIGHT know a thing or two about the lineage of the marquee.

Chuck, I wouldn't mind if you did take some of my ideas for the '10 Mach1..........you would more than likely do a better job of it anyway!

Curt, on examining the pics, I have to agree with your line of thinking. Being that the truck itself is now so much shorter in the height department, the fender length splice ahead of the wheel openings would be the way to go. Either way and no matter what you do, interesting idea.

I would say Art is just guessing, much like the rest of 'us' here. We have all heard the rumblings, and are wondering what they are up to. Well, Art, care to clue the class in? In Drag Racing, this is what's known as 'Put up or shut up'.

No, the Revell Civic and Interga brakes are MUCH more plain than these. They represent the stock Honda brakes, the XS Tuning units shown here represent the Brembo units.

The 'Shaker' hood scoop was on the 1969 Mach1 and the 2003-04 Mach1s. The 2001 Bullitt got the forward-facing hood scoop. I am spilling the beans here a bit on my own 2010 build, but I have the kit hood modified and a 'Shaker' scoop re-sized to fit my current opening. I am going with a 2010 'What-if' of a Mach1, using styling ques from the 2003-04 Mach1 as a basis for the build.