whale392

On the 4.6L DOHC after 99' and all 5.4L DOHC engines, the plugs go down through the center of the valve cover (think 426 Hemi) and are C.O.P set-up (Coil On Plug). Earlier 4.6L DOHC had 2 coil packs (one on the front of each cylinder head) with plug wires running to them and the plugs (still in the center of the heads).

As a FOX chassis fan, this build has my attention (what little I can spare anyway). Looks good so far, and the scale difference between the Saleen motor (1/25th) and the Revell body (1/24th) isn't as noticeable on film as it can be in real. Looks good so far. If you feel like it, come on down to the FOX Chassis CBP thread going on and join in.

We could cover every generation of Mustang, and would have participation in all of them! IF that were to happen, it would have to be 1964.5-73 (First Gen), 1974-78 (Second Gen), 1979-94 (Third Gen, we have going), 1994-2004 (Forth Gen, also going), 2005 to present (fifth Gen, also going on right here!). I say go for it. I (personal opinion here) am glad to see 1979-2012 represented, as Late models seem to always be looked on with lack of love, unlike the First-Gen cars (1964.5-1973). Now, a truly unloved Mustang was the Second-gen 1974-78. THOSE cars need some love!

That is one scary FOX, matt! I would hate to have to look out past that beastly powertrain to see the road (then again, the car would most likely be sideways all the time!). Jason, Frankie is looking more and more like a real, living car every time I see it! Greta work, and hope to see more of them soon! By the way, are you going to fill the convertible door mirror holes, or use the 'vert mirrors?

Not saying I will jump in here (as my FOX builds have me strung up for time), but I have probably half-a-dozen S197s started. I will keep this in mind and see what hits my bench. Thanks for starting a build thread for the S197........I was contemplating it to go with my FOX and SN95 threads.

Mike, others have had very good luck with sealing the red/obnoxious body color with Future, then a few light coats of primer. I have 3 bodies treated to that right now, and with one of the bodies in white primer, the red plastic dye hasn't tinted it yet. Based on that, I would say strip the primer to bare plastic, shoot a layer or two of Future down, then apply and work your primer coats.

Ok Casey, you got me too! Never really gave the nonemclature a second thought as to who called it what, but you are right! And even I didn't go all the way back to when the Dodge Brothers purchased Graham Truck only to be purchased by Walter P. Chrysler a few years later. The lines under the Chrysler banner have shared drivetrain configurations since 1926.

Perhaps you missed Caseys humor, George (guess his emoticon didn't give it away huh?). Chrysler Corp autos have shared engine configurations/platforms since 1951. That included Plymouth, Dodge, Desoto, Chrysler, and Imperial. With a k-member change (un-needed from 1971-up) we swapped a 1969.5 440+6 into my 1965 Dodge Coronet500 Convertible. original engine was a Poly 318. We just swapped a friends 1973 Challenger from a 318 to a 440 without having to change the k-member too. If we REALLY want to get crazy with the cheeze-whiz, you can turn an early Poly (1951-roughly 58) into a Hemi with a head/intake swap!

take the intake, carbs, and air cleaner from the AMT 1970 Super Bee kit and fit them to the Revell engine. Both kits are 1/25th scale.

This is a really nice kit. Just because it is a 'Snapper' doesn't mean it is junk. The only bad part of the kit are the wheels/tires and the rest builds up nicely. Modify it like I did and just build it. I promise it will look GOOD when done up and painted.

Rob and Cranky, perhaps I did read a slight bit into Crankys' post (given his penchant for rust and gunk and all). Couple that with the prevailing wind of this thread being whether rats are considered junk or primered masterpieces and one begins to get an overall mental pigeon-hole going. For that I apologize. People like Billy and Warren Lane, Indian Larry, Milwaukee Iron, Chico, and Zero Engineering impart art and innovation into everything they built/build; be it a full-on shiny build or a Satin Queen. They really didn't fit into the whole 'Rat' thing, even though some of Zeros' bikes were Suede and bobbed! To me, the whole 'Rat' movement has gone beyond the 'Anti-billet' it started as and has become a cartoon caricature of itself. Todays' Rats are sometimes just downright scary in their lack of safety and overall construction rigidity. Rat for the sake of Rat is deadly. Now, if there is a Rat/Primered class at a show, good on it. But should they always have their own category, no.

Being as this is a snap kit, you have to press the suspension down over the pins until it snaps past the initial rough spot and locks into the retaining rings. I took a drill bit and slightly enlarged the holes so that I could take it back apart, better facilitating test-fitting.

Sorry Virgil, I have to disagree with you on your Billy Lane comment. Billy Lane didn't just bolt whatever was laying around together and call it a 'Rat' and therefore be instantly cool. Having been in his shop, talked with he and Warren on several occasions, and having been on some of their creations (Yes, I do know the Lane brothers) I can tell you they ARE NOT 'RAT' bikes. Every one of Billys' bikes has countless engineering innovations and meticulous attention to detail, not to mention engineering functionality into quite a few of his bikes. His weren't half-hearted attempts at cool. Neither were any of his 4-wheeled vehicles. They are functional and traditional, NOT some cobbled-together monstrosity. But I digress; back on the topic at hand. Like I and others have said, if it is well built, finish sheen should not matter.

Now, if you would like to keep it true to the spirit of the build, you could use the Japanese Imperial Flag (the 'Rising Sun' versus the gumball) and 'General Yamamoto' on the roof! I love the BlueBird SSS Coupes, and am saddened that American shores never saw this car (even though the Datsun 510 was close, save for the cant of the C-pillars).

I can see both sides of this. Most people who model automobiles believe that an auto must be shiny, even though 98% of the real traveling population of autos have some degree of degradation/oxidation to their finishes. It is also a common misconception that a flat finish is 'the easy way out' when it comes to painting a model. These factors lead to a mental barrier with most judges. With that said, I believe the skill level at which the basics of modeling were completed at and the overall level the model was built to SHOULD be what is judged, shiny or not. I have seen some shiny paint that was laid over very poor workmanship, and I have seen some Suede/Flat paint laid over a flawless preparation/execution build. No matter the finish, it is the prep/overall work that should be judged. Do I believe that we need a 'suede' class at shows; no. Do I believe that judges need to break that 'shiny is where it's at' mentality....YUP!

Believe me, short of monster truck tires, almost ANY aftermarket tire will be a shorter sidewall than the Revell Mustang/Challenger tires!

I always liked this era of Funny Cars (as it is the ear I grew up through) and look forward to seeing this one come to life.

As I said, the 1/24th scale 19" wheel will basically equate to a 20" wheel in 1/25th. What will make the difference is the sidewall height of the tire; most aftermarket and/or Tamiya kitted tires have a much lower tire sidewall, making them shorter overall that the Revell 1/25th 19" wheel/tire combo. Now, the Tamiya/aftermarket tire/wheel will be wider than the Revell pieces, meaning they will stick out past the outer fender lip unless either the inner fenders or the wheel/tire are trimmed to make everything fit. Believe me when I say the Revell wheelwells are nowhere near deep enough to properly fit even its' kit supplied rubber, let alone good aftermarket/kitbashed rubber. I have half a dozen (or slightly more) of these kits (ranging from the 2006GT to the GT500 and even the 2010GT) and every one of them is waiting on me to trim out the rear wheel wells to make the rubber fit. Also, these kits NEED to be lowered, as their stock ride height (kit form) is way too high. Take roughly 1/16th" out of the front struts and rear springs to correct this.

A 1/24th scale 19" wheel will be roughly 19.6" in 1/25th scale. This could be equated to putting a 20" where a 19" sat. If the tire sidewall profile, coupled with the rim height, is still the same it will work fine. Thanks to the Mustang kits (I am assuming you are talking about the Revell 2005+ kits here) have such blockey over-sized tires anyway, going to a 19" 1/24th wheel/tire will actually lower the car slightly. The biggest problem you will have is the width of the aftermarket 19" wheel/tire, as Revell has given us painfully inadequate depth in the Mustang wheel wells to fit any real or decent rubber into.

Sounds like you got pretty well blasted! At least it wasn't any worse than what you got, as a broken neck could have left you sipping meals through a straw the rest of your life (especially considering your prior injury to that area). No worries; my work benches (read: any flat surface in the house the cats haven't already claimed as theirs) are covered with half-started projects and the scrap of kitbashing/scratchbuilding. I even have a few SN95s I need to get completed............maybe I need to just sit one day and finish them up!

Motivation and attention span enough to finish anything.

This is just as beautiful in person as it is on Megabytes! Saw it at this years Toledo NNL, along with some of your other builds.......these are by far some of the nicest traditional style cars out there!

Looks a lot better than what you started with Jason. I am using a Hatchback roof reshaped for my T-Top Coupe conversion. Talked to Ed yesterday at the Toledo NNL; the kit of the 1991-93 Coupe is AT LEAST 1 year away. It is based on a True Street/Hot Street/10.5 tire car and will have at least the cowl hood, Nitrous and aftermarket intake set-up, and a complete tubular front suspension in addition to the factory stock stuff. Ed also wanted me to understand that while it is in development and test shots are coming, it will not be debuted at IHobby and that it will be able to be believed it is coming when it hits the shelves. He did not want to promise it, as even he said sometimes uncontrollable forces get kits cancelled. He does, however, feel that this one WILL make it to the shelves, as people (namely me) have been buried so far up his tail-end for this that he references the enthusiasm back to the Revell higher-ups.

Thanks Ben and Chuck for the links, awesome stuff!

These, and the ever-interfering work schedule, are the reason it takes ME so long to build anything. I would rather enjoy the time outside while I can, before winters Icy chill sentences me to a prison stay of doldrums locked in the house. Sadly, I don't have too many friends here in Ohio, so that isn't too much of a distraction (except for when the ones I do want to go yank a motor from a salvage yard or go shooting...sometimes both in the same day,I AM IN!). I was in Toledo yesterday for the NNL/Toy Show, so while no building was done, I did gather some more stash materials! Whenever more is done, you have a place to show it (and people looking out for it!).