whale392

Honestly, lack of basic prep is what kills even the 'best' builds. Added brake lines, brackets, calipers, rotors, and the like only to still have mold separation lines down the axle tubes. Now, I can see how some of these can be left, as I have had to do some extensive research to figure out where the real manufacturer separated a part (so that I don't file off a line that needs to be there or fill in a separation groove on the real part). I think that 1:1 product knowledge/familiarity is paramount to building an accurate scale rendition. But these are just the ramblings of a non-finishing talent-less hack.

That came out very nice, Tony! Billy should be proud of his ride, and hit up the local scene for some tire-fryin', pop-swillin', music-jammin' good fun! You did a great job with the 85-86 nose grill opening; that looks like it came that way and looks close enough to the real car that some will have a real hard go of it to tell it was a 1979-82 piece. I applaud you, sir.

Brian, You see Meadow Woods there on your map, just South of Orlando and on the very edge of the map? If you were to go just a bit further south, you will see BuenaVentura Lakes. That is where I grew up. As of 2003, mom and dad left BVL for St.Cloud (pull the map a slight bit further south yet, and look to the east a small fraction), and that is home to me (even though I live in Ohio at the moment). Every year from 1986-97 I would run up the Turnpike/!-75 from Kissimmee to Gainesville for the Gatornationals, and almost as long to Mopars With Big Daddy. I know the areas well. When I got back from the Navy (2001), I lived in Ocoee (off Silver Star Road). That is why I say Ocala is about mid-state (by Google Map it is closer to the Gulf Coast than the Atlantic Coast) on I-75/Turnpike. I miss home and can't wait to be able to go back, but one has to go where the money is. I would LOVE a large tract of land down by Yeehaw Junction (go south out of St.Cloud on Vermont street and it will turn into Canoe Creek Road and take you down that way)to retire to. Like I said, I truly do wish you guys the best in your quest for a personal club, as Florida truly needs one.

After reviewing my own literature, you are correct on the twin-exit exhaust. However, it was 2-into-1-into-2. 86 it became true duals with the H-pipe and 4 cat system. The Turbo cars got the single-into-split2 tip exhaust. I have a stainless 'copy' of the 1-into-2 split tip (3 inch inlet with 2 2&1/4" tips....for my Holset HX35/HX40 Hybrid turbo set-up on my 84GT Turbo Mustang).

Ocala is Mid-State isn't it, Jim? South of Gainesville by about a half-hour on I-75/TurnPike? Best of luck Jim, Florida NEEDS some good clubs!

85GT, whether CFI or carbed, had the single side exit exhaust and a 7.5" rear. 1986 was the first year for true dual exhaust and the 8.8" rear end. The trunklid spoiler also had no CHMSL in 1985, it became a federal mandate in 1986. These are the external distinguishing features between 1985 and 1986 models. 1985 CFI/auto, Carbed/T5 5spd. Also, the 1985 is unique in it is the first year for tubular factory headers. They are unique to 1985 as they are the only year tubular header to come with heat riser shields on them (to feed heated air to the underside of the dual-snorkel air cleaner). 1986 got the Speed Density SEFI electronic fuel injection system. Also, 1986 intakes are unique as they are shorter runners/narrower inner tubing than the 1987-93 units. They also came with E6 heads (which sucked) and true flat-top pistons. 1987-93 got the E7TE heads and revised (taller/longer) upper intake. Now, to create a STOCK 1985 Mustang GT with the Carbed/5spd combo. Take one Monogram 1979 Variant Mustang Hatch, remove the front end AT the fender/door seam to include the cowl(so, cut it under the front windshield lower trim, removing the cowl and cowl vent detail with the front clip). Take the Monogram 1983-84 GLX Mustang convertible, remove its' front clip (at the same places you cut the 1979 body) and graft it to your 1979 body. Use the hood from the 1983/84 GLX as well. This gets you close to overall design criteria. Take the top of the bottom spoiler in the Monogram/Revell 1985 SVO kit and glue it to the top of the spoiler on the hatch of the 1979, file to shape. Remove the grill section form the nose, beveling the lower corners to form a smooth radius on either side. Using styrene, create the upper portion of the new nose, thereby creating the open grill of the 1985-86 Mustang. The lower nose is where it gets tricky. While the SVO has the correct spacing and fog light holes, it angles too steeply back toward the car. Careful reshaping and filing will get you close enough to make this lower nose work. The belt line molding will have to be filled in and re-scribed with the 1985-86 Mustang specific split-2 line indentations in the belt molding. Creating the 1985-86GT specific belt molding trim pieces bearing the GT logo in front of the rear wheel well openings will be the biggest challenge. While you are at it, pick up a Monogram/Revell 1/24th scale Thunderbird TurboCoupe kit to use the engine bay, T5 transmission, rear end, and front suspension out of. Engine; well, use the 83-84 Mustang GLX engine, mated to the Thunderbird TurboCoupe T5 trans, with the exhaust manifolds from the 1987-up GT verts or the 1993 Revell Cobra Mustang kit. Add heat riser tubes to the exhaust manifolds and you will be close. No accurate dash exists for the 1983-86 GT Mustangs, but careful scratchbuilding of the 'Fighter Jet bezeled' dash can bring a good looking dash to the build. Use the SVO steering wheel if his car does not have cruise control, the 1987-UP GT steering wheel if he does have cruise. Seats will have to be modified from either the 1979, 83-84, or SVO into single-post Halos versus dual-post Halo headrests. Remove the netting, as 1983-86 Lier-Siegler seats didn't have the netting in their headrests like the 1979-82 Recaro seats did. You will have to modify the interior door panel trim, front and rear seat patterns, and inner plastics from the SVO kit to match the 85GT units. As for wheels, Reliable Resins makes the 10-holes. Tires from the SVO kit will work fairly well. I am sure I am missing some info, but I hope this helps you along some.

This is the Revell 'Turbo Cobra' kit. It has NEITHER Mustang nor Capri fenders. It has a combination of BOTH fender types. It has the Capri bulges with the Mustang wheel lips (as the Capri fenders/quarters did not have 'flared' wheel lips like the Mustang did).

Well, I see it's about ready for a test-spin. Got any tracks in mind?

Look in the FOX Chassis CBP thread. I am doing a 1/24th scale Cobra-to-GT conversion right now. As to kits, Mark is correct on using the 1993 Cobra as a base, and either mixing it with the various Monogram convertible kits or doing some scratchbuilding. Either way, the nose from the GT 'vert kit will need to go onto the Cobra body, and the Cobra side skirts can be modified into GT units if you are careful. The rear bumper and tail lights from the vert will have to be put into place where the (inaccurate) Cobra rear bumper and tail lights were. Depending on the year, you will have to swap the steering wheel, seats, and the wheels back onto the cobra as well. If you can find a Saleen Whaletail spoiler, you can convert it back into a GT unit with some sanding and reshaping, or find a dead 87-89GT From AMT and widen/lengthen/reshape it.

Hardtop: No casing around the door windows and NO B-Pillar Coupe: No casing around the door windows and a fixed B-Pillar Sedan: Cased door windows and a fixed B-Pillar Convertible: Usually either a coupe or Hardtop body modified by removing the hard roof, with a dropping/stowing roof Roadster: a 2dr that has NO provisions for storing a down-top but was built as an open-roofed car

I watched you build this one up, and have to say it turned out well.

Depends on your definition of iconic. The 1982 Mustang GT re-introduced the 5.0L HO motor to the public (but the 5.0L was available in 1979) and re-ignited the musclecar wars. 1986 saw the 5.0L get SEFI, and 1989 saw 50 state Mass-Air. These cars made horsepower readily affordable to everyone, and spawned an entire industry just unto themselves. To me, that makes the 1979-93 Mustangs (and 1979-86 Capris) iconic. A GOOD kit of them is much overdue (considering their current popularity). I hope Revell does this subject justice with the upcoming 1991-93 LX 5.0 Coupe model debuting this fall.

Perhaps, Art, it is that BECAUSE John can and does build better, that I have come to expect that from him. Maybe THAT is my point. But alas, points wasted. This build will go on with or without my comments, and will likely go on without any comments from anybody. Too bad honesty doesn't go too well here.

Like I said, Harry, you perceived hostility in my post. Look again and you will actually see me stating that I normally use Johns builds as guidelines for my own..........guess that part was lost when you read that.

Pastel Yellow with a MOD top/interior!

To expand on the window treatment: your quarter window treatment is something Ford should have done (if they could make it pass crash). I truly like the light, airy look it gives the roof section.

Harry, if you would have read the entire post you drew my 'hostile' words from, you would see the context in which they were meant. I have nothing against John or his builds, but to add stuff just for the sake of adding stuff is something I just don't understand. Detail, when well done, is a good thing. But when you have a rubber bump beam that, if scaled out, would be 3" thick set up on the side of the seat........? Running lines to nowhere or into incorrect locations on highly visible parts? Like I said and I will stand by, John is better than this. Proof is in his vintage drag and LSR builds. NO HOSTILITY was meant.

Challenger tail-lights meet the Mustang.........interesting. While I am a Mustang guy, I must admit to not caring too particularly for the 05-09 styling, and the '10+ looks better (minus the gaysauce tail light treatment). I do like your body kit and attempt at the 1983-84 GT reverse-facing hood scoop on the newer body. Keep at the build, I for one am watching.

John, While I usually use your builds as a guideline, I must ask on this: What reference materials are you using for this? I mean; c'mon, a Wrangler sponsor decal on the driveshaft and the hoses, lines, and underhood detail going everywhere? John, you ARE better than this, your early era drag builds and your streamliner motorcycle LSR builds prove my words. Seats like that only exist in Fighter Jets (and I should know, 4 years Navy got me dang close to them, and even they aren't that cluttered with B.S.), NASCAR (or any serious road-race team) will route the wiring/plumbing for the most advantagious removal/install/minimal clutter possible, and sponsor decals where they WON'T be seen? C'mon John. Like I said, you are better than this. Detail for details sake may have WOW factor, but for those of us that KNOW better, it is a cheap attempt at best.

Yup, class 5.....the non-finisher class. (or, all 4 classes with a large dose of procrastination tossed in)

That's the original issue of this truck. Subsequent releases were Orange and the latest in White Plastic (Blue truck on the box-art).

Huber Heights here, 2 minutes from the I-70/I-75 interchange. Howdy.

The 85-86 Mustang, the 68-69 Dodge truck, and the 61 Plymouth Fury are very interesting to me (too bad they are beyond saving!).

C'mon Tim, you know the spring perches will rust right through the trunk floor before the rear will camber like that! (Hey, I own some Mopars, and sadly this isn't a joke! ) In all honesty, I like the BBS look better than the earlier style wheels.

Jason, I think it is looking good. Better than mine in fact as you are actually getting something done and closer to finishing than I am! When this goes open-ended, you will have all the time you want to build as many FOXes as you want.