whale392

Hey Chuck, thanks for the pics. Yes, they may have re-arranged the sprues and it technically may be 'New Tooling', but my point is that some of the engineering/parts casts are the same, just moved. As I said, technically it could be considered 'New Tooling'. I guess that the 83-84GLX Mustang converts and the 85 SVO could technically be considered 'New tooling' when they came out too (as the parts were either 'updated' or moved on the sprues), even though they were THE SAME PARTS. Now, this is just my opinion, but to me new tool means completely new engineering, not just moving the parts around (even though I see the point of having to cut new 'tools' for the re-arranged parts content). Either way, I am happy with the new kit and can't wait to see what other variation they come out with. I will be buying a few of these, and since they are 1/25th scale, combining these with the 1991-93 Mustang Coupe when Revell releases it!

And who says these cars can't look/be cool? There are some nice builds in this thread.

Thanks for your input Chuck. The front suspension and the rear lower control arma ARE THE SAME as the 05-08 units, same with the shocks. While the '10 units frame/bellypan unit is different, the suspension goes into it the same way. Brakes are the same units, the engine is the same (even if it is re-arranged on the sprue). There are plastic parts in common with the original kit, so I would hate to contradict you but have to. I also do the side-by-side, as I have a dozen of the 2005-2008 variations (GT, Bullitt, GT500, GT500KR) and pulled them all out just to see what will and won't swap back and forth. I was dearly hoping that the inner fenderwell issues had been fixed. While they were redesigned to closely mimic the '10 changes, they are still too shallow and do not locate the tires deeply enough into the wells. But, these are just a few of MY observations sitting these kits down side-by-side.

Looking good, Scott! Progress is progress, and it sure as heck looks like a Fairmont from every angle. I admire you for being able to go to this distance to produce a model that never existed. Thanks for the inspiration Scott!

I remember doing a thread very similar to this one about a year ago in this section (ok, more like 8 months ago) detailing just what I had here in Ohio with me. That landscape has changed a little, but the ones in Florida haven't. Jim; I would give you the address, but it is super-saian-secret and dad would have to kill you after you set eyes on the Florida stash (mainly due to him being a Mopar man and 2 of the 14 boxes are nothing but vintage-to-about-2000 era issues of Mopar kits!).

While you're at it Jim, stop by St.Cloud and pick up the 14 paper towel boxes I have sitting in dads garage!

Also, don't be afraid to go into the scrapbooking/jewelry section of your local craft store/box-chain retailer. Some of the craft/jewelry beads are a fairly close size to what wheelie bar wheels would be scale-wise and even come in different colors if you wish to replicate a certain look other than aluminum/black.

You beat me to it, Mitch. Careful 'attention to detail', especially on highly visible areas/styling ques will pay dividends in the end. Having the reference pics in front of you, it seems odd to me that you would have the trim slanting the opposite direction as it does on the real car. Bare Metal Foil is not for everyone, so I will not comment on that. But, keeping a sharp edge on the painted trim will go a long way to a presentable model. If you have to, lay down a tape barrier on either side of the trim and use it as a paint edge guide when laying down the 'chrome' paint. Your overall paint execution looks to be fairly good. A little polish will go a long way here. If you can't get/afford regular paint finishing polishes, toothpaste will work quite well as a polish. These are just some of my initial thoughts. You did finish this one, so you are miles ahead of me build-wise, so take whatever advice I give with that in mind!

Much easier to manage than the 1200 I have, Donald! Looks like a fair amount of build time you have on those shelves.........strangely I find myself envying the minute scale of your stash.

Very nice looking 61, Justin. I like the clean, simple lows and this is shaping up to be one very nice example of simple elegance in lowriders.

Brandon, please don't think I am bagging on you as I am not. As a potential customer, I am merely giving you an insight into what a customer looks for when considering a purchase. Your other thread (asking for casting advice) shows a lot about you and speaks volumes as to you wanting to get better. Keep at it, and I am sure you will grow!

Not to shoot you in the foot Brandon, but if all of your steel wheel castings come with pinholes that remove sections of the wheel bead, I don't see you selling too many of them. Quality control and visual appeal are two of the biggest areas that must demand your attention (quality control extends to customer service as well).

As to the Mustang: I see you have the early 80s Revell Turbo Cobra Mustang kit. Horrible kit as it was used to also pop out a Capri, the fenders and quarter panels aren't correct for either the Mustang or Capri. What they did was cast it with the Capri bulges AND the Mustang wheel lips......an odd combination (personal opinion here: while nowheres near correct, I actually like the look and am getting ready to do something similar on my 1:1 Mustang). They also tried popping a McLaren M81/Mustang Enduro body from it as well, and that is so far off the mark it hurts. The Turbo4 engine is fair at best, and the interior is almost completely void of anything resembling inner door panel detail. Seats are best left out and substituted with something from an MPC kit for better realism. Dash and steering wheel are good though...well, as good as the kit can get them. The sail panels behind the quarter windows on the Mustang kit are, well, YUCK and WAY incorrect. I can't really think of a good way to fix them short of making your own sail panels or running the 87-93 flush quarter windows. Now, with all of the kits foibles, I have 6 of them, and I think they are a fair base for a custom Mustang. The engine you have chosen came from the Revell Saleen S281E Speedster kit and is a nice representation of a 302 (even though it is supposed to be a 351.....and yes, you can notice the difference in an 8.2" deck height versus a 9.5" deck height in 1/25th scale). It will work well with your intended build. As for chassis; if you still have the Saleen the engine came from, use the chassis and shorten it about .120" to fit up under the FOX body.......it looks FAR more realistic and gives you a good base for suspension mods. Of course, the kits interior tub will have to me massaged to fit the newer chassis........ But enough of the FOX Mustang stuff, have fun with it (and if you feel like checking out some other Mustang builds going on, swing down into the Community Builds section and look around in the Ford FOX Chassis build CBP thread for some ideas.

Just how serious are you about wanting and listening to tips and critiques from total strangers? (not asking to be a pain, but seriously wanting to know so that I can point out some things that immediately jump out at me as areas to look at/correct)

Jason: I am currently a civilian, but I did do 4 years in Naval Aviation. This go-around I will be a Govt contractor working on U.S/Saudi aircraft at various air bases in Saudi Arabia. I will still be working in contact with our armed forces, and may even run into some of my friends still Active Duty. I got into FOXes when I came home from the Navy (2001) and haven't looked back (too often anyway). I had to sell my Mopar for a divorce, and after a friend took me for a ride in his 93 Mustang GT, I knew this was the ticket for me. 5 FOXes later.............

Seems a lot of Revell marketing these days is to label the box as 'Special Edition' to help increase sales to those who are not avid, ate-up modelers (you know, the sheep that they are intended for, instead of us hardcore wolves us dedicated modelers are!). I have already 'started' on a variation of the kit by using the drivetrain/brakes from the GT500KR kit. Lowering it and using some of Caseys 'Modern Magnum500' wheels, along with some other slight alterations, is helping me to build one as if I ordered it (even though Ford will not let you custom-order a car anymore).

Yup, the L series engine had the plug wires going over the valve cover. Also, later L series motors had a blower duct that went over them as well, to keep the intake/injectors cool due to the intake/exhaust manifold being of a siamesed same-side design. Your 240Z is looking good.

Everyones work is looking awesome; thank you for participating in the build. Tony, I will open-end this once the deadline hits. I will continue this thread, as transferring all of the images to a new thread would be a HUGE pain for all of us involved. The big reasons I am open-ending it: build times with multiple kits, and I will be heading to Saudi Arabia in roughly 4 months. I will not have a lot of time to build, but would love to come home to a thread full of FOXes, and look at the sweet FOX builds while I am in the sand. Keep the builds going; I for one love watching everyones builds come together, and seeing what you all come up with. Thank you for making this thread what it is, a cool place for FOX cars!

Got my 2010 Mustang GT yesterday. The engine assembly, front and rear chassis assemblies, and those horribly over-sized tires are the same as the 2005-2009 releases from Revell. The chassis has floor pan carry-over, but front and rear inner fender wells are different (but still too narrow for a good set of tires/wheels). The body looks very well done, and the front bumper, rear bumper, and hood are separate...making it easier to paint the satin black in the trunk recess between the tail lights. Wheels themselves are chromed and look very nice (I will use some copies of these on other builds). Overall interior has been updated to the 2010+ style, but goes together just as the earlier kits did. Ride height will have to be adjusted, as this kit suffers from the same 4x4-itis as the earlier kits did. All in all though, I am happy I picked one up, and will get one or two more to do motor swaps with/build variation of.

Looks good so far, Jason!

Gunmetal would work too! Maybe even a Black Chrome look to the wheels on a satin car? Smoke the headlights and taillights a little, tint the windows...........

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=38233&view=findpost&p=393763&hl=turbocoupe&fromsearch=1 Yeah, just a start. I have to get back and update this build thread sometime.

My Grandfather was an anti-aircraft gunner in WWII, I was in Naval Aviation, I wear a black band around my wrist to remind me of a friend who gave his life trying to save his Unit Brothers, and I bear the scars in my heart for friends/brothers/sisters lost to wars. Tears try to form as I type this, but I force them back so that I may see the screen. Let us not forget what Memorial Day is all about. Between the burgers, chips, pop and beer; take a moment, hold a moment of silence for those who went but did not come back. Remember those you have lost, think of those who are lost, and pray for the families of those who are yet to be lost. Brave men and women died so that we may have the freedoms we do today, so that we may have the nation that others aspire to be. Memorial Day is their day, a solemn day of remembrance and honor to those gone but not forgotten. To all my lost brothers and Sisters, GOD speed and go blessed, rest easy, your toils are over.

That color goes extremely well with the body lines and wheel choice, Tom. You bringing this to next years Buckeye Scale Classic model show?

Satin Black could look good on the SVO, toss some Bronze wheels on it and go for it!