VW Dave

Modelhaus would be a great source for what you're after. I have to look in the box, but I might have the set of stockers from my Jo-Han '79 Coupe Deville....email or PM me a reminder and I'll look later today.

I'd like to know what look you're going for, before pointing you in any direction. If you really want "unique" wheels, you might be better off fabbing a one-off set.

I've been married almost 9 years.....I've gotten quite good at admitting when I'm wrong.

You had me at 'blown ardun deuce'....and I wasn't disappointed in the least. I'm really looking forward to seeing more of this one.

The other day I logged on in a foul mood, and kinda butted heads with route66modeler(Steve) over a trade deal that never came to fruition. I made an inappropriate post before signing off, which I noticed the next day had been deleted....and I'm glad it was at this point, because that behavior really isn't my style(or good for our hobby). Steve - I'm sorry for letting it get that far out of hand. I hope we can mend our fences and help each other out in the future.

My #1 X-Acto handle and a good supply of #11 blades are paramount. A scale rule and my HF digital caliper have become invaluable tools to me in recent years as well.

Pictures of your results would be a nice thing to share.

Bad idea....drilling very small holes is better done by hand. I don't have a specific pin vise, all of my small bits seem to fit pretty well in my X-Acto #1 handle

I'm with Steve on this one; judging by the door hinges and multiple screw holes in the chassis, it's for sure based on a diecast......Bburago or Welly, most likely.

Why did you have to put rubber bands on a recently-painted body?

I agree.

Do you live under a rock?

I believe that's the new owner of AFX's old molds....it may be Wendell hisself, so I'd try not to pay too much for it in case he vanishes again.

I have that kit too, and it is very nice...I got lucky, and got mine off Ebay right before AFX imploded

I sent this picture to my phone to show a few co-workers, and one guy was sure it was real...until I brought the model in the next day: And my friends that I built this Beetle for have this very picture in one of their photo albums; at a car club picnic one fall, a guy browsing through asked where & when they had studio pics of 'Rudy" done. In both cases, realism in the photos wasn't my goal....but the comments were appreciated.

If it's an original series 1 like mine, the dash is ABS; the replacements are all fiberglass like the Manx 2's.

You might need to back your camera away from the subject and use the zoom to get the closer view you need while set on macro; I don't remember who taught me that, but it worked great for my photos

The steelies and dog dishes are refreshing and the car is über-clean, but it's the underhood details that really blew me away....little stuff like the blue spark plug boots, wire routing and the hood latch/release details. Wow!!

Pretty much what I was thinking; the answer is different on a model-by-model basis, but I also would like to add another factor: the level of scale realism you're after. I once did a mildly lowered '90s Impala SS 'shelf model' for a client that would be mounted to a display case base permanently, so I hatched a plan.....I shaved and ground down the front frame rails where the complete suspension member attached, and I did a similar thing at the mounting points of the rear suspension. I was able to lower the whole car and keep the structural integrity of the suspension components, so the wheels didn't 'squat' when I zip-tied the finished car to the base.

It took aboot 30% more of it than an American paint would have, once he figured out the exchange rate. Seriously, Jim.........I love it! The interior really pops color-wise, and I had no clue those were Charger seats until reading your caption. Your underhood detail is top notch as well, but do you have a clearer picture of that?

....and even worse than that, after ordering and paying for them it would probably take 6-9 months to get them if they show up at all.

I also let it be on the body of my '56 Beetle:

The main advice I can offer is to let the base paint dry thoroughly before adding the top coat/solvent. If the base isn't totally dry, it can be 'washed out' by the top solution. Another tip is to help you out with toning down the rust; the surface will likely be rather 'bumpy,' and a little dry sanding with 700 grit paper once it's fully cured can help to that end. I did it on my "Joe Dirt" Charger's front fenders, and IMO it yielded a pretty decent patina: However, on the chassis plate I let it fly 'as is:'

To save a bunch of work I'd look for somebody who will trade you a '68 Charger body, or see if you can pick up a '68 kit on the cheap. I needed a vinyl top on my junker '68, and I swapped the '69 body with great ease....and great results as well.

Me likey.