VW Dave

My question is.....what was the kid doing in that aisle prior to his comments?

Love it!

I've got 3 in the works right now, including one I'll be raffling off for charity. I like the progress on this one so far, and I really like the top

Pssst...don't tell anybody, but they do have a seam. I just position them carefully to downplay it.

If it's an old or OOP kit, there's value in it to somebody...on the other hand, some folks love the challenge of rebuilding rather than building from a fresh kit

Rob's got a PM from me; I checked my stash, and I seem to have a spare pack of those bead cones.

Nope, that was me. The packaging or brand name might be different, but search the beading section for 'bead cones,' and you should find these:

I love it!! volksrods - PM or email me your address; I have spares of all the parts you are missing

Help him build it out-of-box, and save detailing for later....like others have said, keep it simple to avoid scaring him off from the hobby. I was about 7 when I built my first model, and keeping it simple was good for me then.

It's a pic from 2005, and a lot of the other kits are gone, but my RoG splits and Ghia are in the top left:

Sideways in the air @ 5:40 made me back it up and watch again

Tamiya did a 1/16 WWII Kübelwagen; there has yet to be a Thing kitted in any scale.

If you don't need slicks, I'd say look out for the smaller rear tires from the older Revellogram sprint cars(each kit had a larger and smaller tire for the rear). The larger ones would for sure be too big, but I reckon the smaller ones would look the business.

They still use bolts to this day too; my wife's '02 Jetta had them.

Those vented units are the 14" wheels that were used from 9/64 through the end of the splitscreen Bus production(my '66 21-window had those). The 1949-3/55 production used 16" wheels like the split Beetles, and from 4/55 through 8/64 they were 15."

I have a feeling none of us have given the answer he wants.......

The only reason to tally the cost of all the ingredients like that would be if you were building a specific replica model for a customer....and I no longer care to do either.

I'm also a fan of shredded paper as packing material, and I reuse about 99% of the boxes/packing material I receive. IMO the key to shipping anything even halfway fragile is crumple zones; the outer box should be slightly larger than the item you're shipping, in order to allow for some minor crushing without hurting the contents.

The #2 movie car with the black interior was in a Corvette museum in Cooperstown NY about 15-20 years ago; when the guy liquidated his collection, that one went to Mike Yager(owner of Mid-America). The Cooperstown museum was pretty cool while it lasted - he also had one of the original Deathrace 2000 'Frankenstein' Corvettes too

Those skinny 14's and 15's aren't so bad....you should try the rears on my Manx: 15x9 Jackmans with 275/50-15s. The secret is 'starter lugs,' which thread into 2 of the holes by hand so you can hang the wheel and start the others.

There's no real 'rules' as far as what induction setup to run on a pro streeter...folks have run everything from single carbs to multiple turbos and blowers on a single vehicle(Google Rick Dobbertin's "Overkill" Nova or J-2000). It might help if you tell us what kit you're using, and what engine is going in it

I love it, especially the weathered paint and the fuel drips on the tank

The last couple of times I bought armature wire at Michaels, they had the rolls and clear tubes containing straight lengths; I opted for the straight stuff.

With aluminum rod inside it, tubing will not kink unless you bend it wel beyond 90 degrees....and the average roll cage doesn't have bends that extreme. For a good fit, I use my Dremel and round files to 'fishmouth' cut the ends like real race car fabricators do. I also use epoxy for the glue joints, applied sparingly with a small disposable brush. Rubbing alcohol helps clean up any goofs while the epoxy is still wet, and working over wax paper keeps you from gluing your cage to your bench(epoxy will not stick to wax paper). Heat shrink tubing, slipped over and shrunk prior to assembly makes good padding as well.

Figure out the OD of the real car's cage tubing, and shop for appropriately-sized aluminum tubing; I'd also get aluminum rod that fits inside the tubing so you can bend it without kinks. The other alternative is pliable aluminum rod called 'armature wire,' which is carried by any well-stocked craft or art supply store(it's intended for sculpting). It's light, bends easily by hand, and very workable.