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VW Dave

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Everything posted by VW Dave

  1. Riley - I'm sure I have a useable spare that I wouldn't miss, as I took an MPC/AMT Charger parts lot in trade not too long ago; email or PM me your address and it's yours.
  2. I would call that more of a 'super stock' style scoop than a six pack; it's like the Hemi Dart had. Neither was a factory hood on the E-body, so IMHO the market for it would be kinda limited.
  3. I agree. I used 6mm Tamiya masking tape to mark a chop on a Monogram model A coupe, and the reattached top looks just about dead-on for the 6" chop on my buddy's 1:1
  4. Fotki for me, primarily. I have separate folders for finished models(including motorcycles & model railroading), projects and my 'how-to' albums. I also have 1:1 car show, museum and reference pics in their own albums. There's a handful of pics for sharing in my Facebook, but I have no plans to do whole albums there
  5. It's been over 30 years since I last saw my first build, but I know it wasn't anywhere as nice as this one. Way to go!
  6. I like the 4-door conversion, and little details like the open quarter glass really caught my eye. This wagon is a winner, Dominik!
  7. Underscale? I'm curious what body you bought.....
  8. One of my all-time favorite kits, and an excellent build. I really like the job on the window molding; looks amazing. Minus the engine wiring and trunk carpeting, of course
  9. Even on bare plastic I've had Rustoleum take several days to dry; luckily mine was a rat rod project the last time, and I just sped up the process with DullCote
  10. If you can't find the person you're after, you should just be able to print the image out and install it from the inside....the real shades/screens are like tint anyway, so seeing in through them isn't an issue. To deepen the effect I'd put a second inner layer of black paper or smoke tinted mylar** on the inside after installing it. ** if you use regular camera film, or if you know somebody who develops film, blank negative 35mm film makes nice tinted window material. It's thin enough for scale purposes, cuts to shape with normal scissors, and glues easily with KrystalKleer or epoxy.
  11. I don't think that's a short shot, and the OP said it was cut...either way, it looks tough to fix as he said he's not experienced.
  12. I was wondering if that was the same location..I'd love to make the orphan show someday. I really liked the blue sedan with staggered Fuchs in pic #38, and that blue Square with the ragtop looks familiar....did it have ghost flames, by any chance?
  13. Sadly, I don't think there's any saving that one......replacement is the only way to go, and make the rest of that model the 'parts donor.'
  14. If I'm not mistaken, the green Vette and yellow Cougar are 1/43 models by either AMT or Lindberg. The silver notchback Mustang is an AMT. If you have no plans for it, I'd love to take the old tan Indy-ish racer off your hands; PM or email me if you might be into it
  15. But the only DP heads that would be a direct swap onto a 40-horse would be Okrasa units, and those weren't exactly commonplace or cheap....kinda like the Ardun flatty heads of the VW world
  16. I've been running 40mm Kadrons on my S/P 1600 for about 8 years now, and they've been great; I haven't sync'd them or anything in ages either.
  17. The kit's engine is a 40-horse, so it would have had single-ports.
  18. I have one that could head in your direction....email or PM me
  19. Can't see anything I don't like about it.....cool!!
  20. I've been a fan of the R-model ever since I saw one at the age of 11......nice job!!
  21. No, it won't fit without pretty heavy mods. The 911's flat 6 is roughly 1/3 longer than the Beetle's flat 4, give or take, and then the exhaust will probably go even further out....if you were building a baja, the lower body clearance wouldn't be an issue. If you go mid-engine configuration the rear of the body can remain untouched....but you're stil in for pretty heavy mods to make that work as well.
  22. If you have access to the equipment, blasting is the fastest, cleanest way; a buddy of mine has a cabinet in his shop devoted to aluminum oxide media, and it strips diecasts like there's no tomorrow. The surface is left ready for paint or primer, and there's no chance of chemical stripper residue weeping out of crevices and ruining the paint.
  23. To keep the front end lowering simple and strong, and provding you weren't building for contest scrutiny, I'd take a bit of a shortcut and shave the front frame rails where the suspension member meets it; you keep the side-to-side wheel alignment and strength of the whole kit part. You'll just have to notch the center crossmember to clear the oil pan and maybe the exhaust when it goes together. On the rear end, I agree 100% with Roger; shave the spring perches down to get to your desired ride height. If you do go low enough, however, you will likely have to lengthen the driveshaft
  24. Love it, love it, love it!!
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