mikevillena

Man, someone must have been beating on that grille with the ugly stick.

Oh, I missed this earlier.... Great stuff! Wondering what software you used.

I was thoroughly unhappy with the paintjob on the engine with all of the experimenting so I soaked it in oven cleaner overnight. Oddly enough, the magnesium Metalizer was a lot more tenacious and actually turned a very dark colour (must have reacted with the lye). I also added a few more details and will be respraying the engine shortly. I also experimented with adding the folded and welded seams using my very thick filler/primer paint. The "seam" is actually painted on with a very fine pointed sable brush. I built up the height much like a potter uses coils of clay to make a pot. What's interesting is that I can shape and clean using my brush moistened with lacquer thinner. It looks very rough at this point but I will be cleaning and blending things: I wil be using the same technique for the roll cage and custom headers.

Thank you very much for the kind compliment, Curtis. I don't think it's persistence...more like OCD! But seriously, I kind of painted myself into a corner as I never really intended to get into it this deep. As to the texturing technique, well it's very much hit or miss at this point as I'm still experimenting with different approaches and I'd hate to mislead anyone. However, feel free to experiment for yourself. I've tried my old technique of softening the plastic surface using slow setting liquid cement and then adding the texture with various tools such as a tiny brass bristle brush, the frayed ends of a stripped Dean's RC silicone wire, or even a pin mounted on a pin vise. I've also experimented with getting the surface tacky and sprinkling various household or kitchen items such as super fine salt, sugar and even baking soda. I used to use baking soda mixed with grey primer to make my own putty back in the dark ages. I also used it to fill cracks by pouring it dry into the gap, leveling it off and adding a drop of super thin CA. Anyway, it's a matter o experimenting and keeping the look in scale. It really helps to study the actual casting because there are variations. Hope this helps.

Just wondering if anyone is into 3D modelling using engineering software. I'm currently working on one and I will probably scratchbuild it in 1/24th scale after I get around to generating detail drawings. I used PTC Creo 2.0 and washed the model through Keyshot: Cut-away of engine: Roller:

The Maserati gets my vote!

Thanks Skip. Yes, you are entirely correct. The factory (Autodelta) cover is bare cast aluminum. Additionally, the magnesium sump was painted purplelish grey on the SA engine. I'm trying to replicate Alfaholics' magnesium covers since this is meant to be a modern day resto with modern upgrades and touches. I've also opted to leave the sump in it's natural magnesium state. There are also a few other inaccuracies in my build but I'll simply consider it as part of the learning process especially since this is my first 1/24th scale model in twenty plus years.

Finished adding details to the diff housing and began work on the rear suspension: Fabricating the trailing arms: Sunday morning, having fun scratchbuilding and having some really good Italian coffee served in my favorite antique cup Trailing arm is swagged and lightened. Temporarily pinned to the chassis: An appreciable improvement over the kit's stock parts (I hope)

Hi and thanks Robin. It's very much a challenge working in this relatively tiny scale and I'm also making a concerted effort to improve my build quality and detail painting. I've got a looong way to go before I'm satisfied.

It is what it is...entertainment especially for Steve McQueen fans. Here's another film that has engendered a few discussions during it's time: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-vHxdBjC6Q BTW, the title this person used on YouTube is incorrect but was probably necessary due to legal issues. Additionally, the filmaker admitted many years later that he didn't actually use a Ferrari and that the sounds were dubbed in. Still fun to watch for old guys like me.

Did a little more work on the engine. I fabricated the main pulley since the stock pulley/belt part was horrible. I also needed to fabricate the alternator adjusment bracket: Some of the bits in place. I was still experimenting with mixing various shades of Metalizer to simulate the corroded aluminum castings as well as pre-shading. I'll eventually re-spray everything and refine the washes:

Thanks Paul. Haha....I'm surprised that you even remembered that project. I've decided to get back into model cars again but it's a real challenge making the transition from 1/10th to 1/24th. (Plasticbuddha was the nickname given to me by some members of a model car club over twenty years ago.)

Not much progress today. A little bit of work on the live axle as well as experimenting with textures and washes:

So that's why I had difficulty rowing through the gears! Don't mention the costs of cylinder head rebuilds......

Another great example of your meticulous craftsmanship.

A bit of "one step forward, two steps back" as the rain gutters proved to be rather fragile: Some careful repairs and I've set the bodyshell aside. Meanwhile, there were several issues with the suspension attachment points that need attention. No fault of Tamiya as they have had to make design compromises because of budget considerations. For the front suspension, I needed to revise the upper leading arm attachment point: The leading arm will be reworked so that it attaches properly. I've also had to build new shock mounts: With everything roughed in: The rear axle/diff housing also needs attention:

I'm having to jump around the project as each area gets set aside to allow the primer, filler, repairs , etc. to dry/cure/go away......... A quick look made me realize that the details on the engine bay sides were different from the reference photo so I had to make modifications: Turned my attention to the engine. I wanted to replicate the fine texture on the various alloy castings so I tried many different approaches. I think this technique comes closest: Stock smooth Tamiya surface Texture added Someone must have slipped something funny in my coffee this morning or was it the "zen" that I mentioned earlier but I thought about making the shifter semi-functional. First gear: Second gear: Third gear: Experimenting with different shades of Metalizer: I will be added bosses and fastener details throughout. Thanks for looking in.

Thanks Carl. Hope to gain new skills and improve the few that I have. Joe, it sounds like you have your hands full!!! There's so much to do on this little monster....it'll porbably take a year. Geez, and I thought I was just going to build it straight out of the box

Thank you very much JC. I couldn't agree with you more. I've been scratchbuilding little details since the 80's and I've always treated whatever detail I'm scratchbuilding as a model in and of itself. An example is the engine block for a Toyota 4AGE: When you are so focused in replicating as many features as personal skill and patience allows it becomes zen like and time just slips away.... Thank you...Nameless National Luminary....er..I mean Danno! Actually, I've been following you many fox body projects and I am keenly interested because I used to have an 86 5.0 GT with straight pipes, cage, etc... I dearly miss that Mustang.

Jeremy, use solid rod instead. Much easier to cold bend. Don't use a lighter or open flame. Use hot water or steam from a boling tea kettle. Make sure that you take precautions as you can easily burn yourself with steam. I used the steam method to fabricate the pipes on my Abarth. It's 1/10th but the technique still applies. (I hope you don't mind my posting the pic) With solid rod you won't run the risk of deforming as you would with tube. BTW, the rear valance on that Mustang is correct. Consequently, the tips on the factory pipes pointed down. There was no cut-out.

After several coats of filler/primer on the roof structure were applied, the bodyshell is set aside to throughly cure overnight: I decided to go with a custom fuel cell as that seems to be quite common in race prepped cars. The tank is positioned close to or directly over the rear axle to help improve and maintain weight distribution:

Thanks Mike. It's hard to stay focused on what is turning out to be a very, very long project especially when I now have a bunch of kits tempting me to start them. Thank you Drew. I'm happy to share what little I know but you'll definitely learn a whole lot more from any of John Teresi's builds. That guy rocks!

Actually, the V-6 "Dino" engine went on to greater fame than F2. It powered the shark nosed 156 to a world championship with Phil Hill in 1961.

Started fabricating the roof structures. The .020 x .020 strips are to provide a gap between the fabricated stampings and the actual roof skin. The cut-out is a little wonky but will be cleaned up later. Working with .010 thk sheet is a little tricky for me at this point and should have been photoetched for a crisper effect. Oh well, I work with what I have. Proof of concept: I need to let the cement and filler primer to cure before I sand and blend everthing together. Afterwhich a few more pieces to add and the roof will have been finished.