dimaxion

I understand why it looks like it does . The result on the windows looks like frost on a cold day . How was that done ? I have one with the wheels sticking out . An '82 Cavalier from MPC . I will fix it some day . Been this way since 1984 . The struggle to get it that far was enormas ! I wolud not ever spotted it not being familiar with the Prototype . I still say well done . Thanx..

I have to admit , it is addictive . I cannot achieve an equal paint job without it knowing it will stay put . I still see the Hudson on a regular basis and lament . Thanx ..

This is a finish by MCW ; the Shadow Grey and Duplicolor Air Brushed Black . Maybe rattle can black ? Clearcoated and polished . I am still trying to clean up old abonded projects . Meanwhile it is painting season ! Thanx...

I like every part of this build . Well done . You have the talent to do resins . Thanx..

Due to the screw in the front lense , it is real . That's my vote . Thanx..

Ok , I'll bite . How do I get in touch for my fair share ? Please ...Thanx..

Please , to save youself allot of heartache , please use primer . The extra cost is well worth the protection . When Resins were a new thing I had a bad experiance . I latched onto a '50 Hudson two door sedan (I don't know which model) . John Hier made it . I soaked in Whestleys , primed it and painted it a dead on match for the contemporary Hudson I was replicating . These were days before MCW . John Hier was offering a few colors in Lacqure . I clear coated it . Much drying time inbetween . I think it took a year to paint . I chromed the windows out with a brush . Now , I moved on to about my third attempt of foiling . The first for large areas like the side chrome trim . Worked super . Got it all done and went ot remove excess . Large portions of the paint job came off with the tape (foil) . I haven't done foil since . I had not primed the body with adhesion promoter . You must use it under the first primer . it is the same stuff used on flexible body parts on 1:1 cars . Our Resin kits are the same material . All that work for .......! I will take pics and post throughout the modeling community . I will strip it some day and do over . I resist major (back to the start) as long as possible when I hit a certain spot in the build , like the end . Especiall;y when i cannot get the color of paint again . Thanx..

Ouch , I would like to have traded for the Mark VIII . I am finishing up a 1994 version of this same model . I had owned one , 1:1 , (yes past tense , I had to quit driving) for reference . I took allot of "silly putty" for it's lacking . Thanx..

I have the '41 Willys Coupe in my "works" . It is indeed a challenge to revert to stock . Please post your's . There was a Feature in 'Collectable Automobile' of a '41 Willys Stock . Probably the only one left in this condition . The engine for all these Willys is sourced from the WW II and Korean MPC Jeeps . The dual carb setup, found in these kits , was available from 1940 and newer as the "Go Devil" Engine . The Jeeps used the tamer version . R&R casts '38 Sedans I believe . Contact Steve Kohler on this one . I am glad to find someone else making all out Dragsters into Factory Stock . Thanx ..John Jr.

The next thought is , what did early resins look like ? TKM is still casting the way it was done in the early Years . Make a negative mold and pour in Resin . This is called "Slush Casting" . Banthrico did this with Metal in the Early Days of Promos . You younguns are spoiled by far superior products . The current products are a result of progress . I for one are glad to have a couple of TKM's on my shelves . He does subject matter rairley copied . Are you planning to build the Caddy ? I only have one more almost complete Picasso to finish . Contact me if you want to unload this please . Thanx Thomas K. Mills ... John JR

I know this is a real this time . Look at the reflection at the top of the windshield of the dash mounted mirror . Thanx..

I am using a '40 AMT doner . The interior is in the kit , less the Steering Wheel and shifter . The dash gauges are 'ghost casted' for easy removal to put detailed gauges from behind . Nice Touch . The floor shift is correct as the colum shift wasn't available until 1940 . Neither were Sealed Beams . The resin seat is sourced from AMT . The pleats will have to be removed for a Standard . I am looking for a Banjo Steering Wheel in PE . It would be correct as it was available on both Standard and Deluxe models . Thanx..

This may be off topic : there is a new Russian Communist Car released . A GAZ Volga in diecast . It is for those that like dull and drab popo cars . Yes , I have one on the way . On another tab , I will be seeing the other ROE kits . They will get some of my disposable income . Thank you for the Edit button . Thanx ..

I just recently bought the '39 Ford Standard Coupe . I like it very much . I find the thickness workable . I have been working with resins since the appearence of it in the eighties . I would buy from Early Racing Classics . again . Thanx..

From what I know about paint , Lacqure has the hotter formula . The more agressive and more "bite" . Back in the Day , it took into the '70's to find a primer to make a barracade to prevent the Lacquer from crazing the plastic . This opened the doors to use Auto Touch Up on our projects . Oh ...Happy Days ! Thanx..