ChrisPflug

Firebird Designs also offers "340" billboards- to get the effect you're looking for you may need to dullcote the decals to get a flat finish Looks like just about all of the Graveyard Carz version can be built out of the box with the Monogram Hemi 'cuda kit For a 1/24 340 (although it seems like a may be a little oversized) you could use the engine from a Monogram T/A Challenger (or the Revell AAR) Since they're using a shaker hood you could probably get away with keeping the 6 pak setup although a convincing 4 barrel setup shouldn't be too tough to come up with. The Monogram 69 Super Bee and 70 GTX (and later revised 70 Road Runner) have a bigger diameter Magnum 500 style road wheel than most 1/25 versions as well as a slightly taller and skinnier tire that should make a convincing 70 series redline

Seems to work even better for me with a splash of water

Without completely hijacking (it seems the original question has been answered) this thread but staying on the subject of 70-72 Chevelles.... I believe AMT had the promo contract for '70, MPC for '71-'72? What is the consensus of the "better" body, original MPC vs AMT What about 80s reissues like the MPC SSlasher and the blue AMT Street Machine- fairly faithful to the original or quick restoration of tools formerly converted to stock car? How does the fairly recent Revell snap '70 look "in person"- looks good from pictures I've seen in ads and box art but haven't had one and don't recall seeing a pic of an actual build The '72 is missing from my collection- do have a later AMT reissue but the grille looks so bad I got a resin '71 conversion front end

Currently an old "Red Alert" kit on the big online auction site- seems to have the SS grille but a plain rear bumper Another listing has an SS rear bumper Both are off the tree so can't say if original

Under the hood looks like a big project for a full detail effort no matter what- I can understand the straight carry over from the previous kits with the chassis and engine choices (428 or dressed up 289- neither correct for the later model although you could make a base 302 fairly easily) but what is with the huge molded in radiator?

Sitting here eating my heart out Waiting for some lover to call

It doesn't matter what they say In the jealous games people play

....Dialing for Dollars is trying to find me I wait for delivery each day until three.....

Cover me with kisses baby Cover me with love Roll me in designer sheets I'll never get enough

Pat Benetar Hell is for Children ?

An example of how I end up getting sidetracked rather than actually building models LOL I like to build all kinds of cars but tend to gravitate most toward 50s-70s American iron and even more to some of the less popular early 70s versions I remember on the road as a young kid. Anyways- I decided I should to do a '71-'73 Mustang as there was none in my current stash and the only one I had previously was the minimalistic Matchbox issue AMT racer years ago Further thinking left me undecided as to what version to build- '71 429, Boss 351, '73 Mach I, '72 just because it seems to get "skipped"? Then color schemes- red with stripe delete like James Bond drove, dark yellow like the original Eleanor, blue with silver stripes, I always liked white for the Boss 351, black with silver stripes was sharp, dark green would be cool......... Then what kit? I remember from discussions years ago that the recent reissues were really only good for building a stock '73 and that the original AMT and MPC annuals each had their quirks, weren't the greatest but neither was greatly superior to the other Went online, did some shopping and purchased the following at what I thought were fair prices- '71 MPC annual brush painted and built but very restorable and complete plus the unused parts, decal sheet and original box, '71 MPC annual new in the box and almost complete, '72 MPC annual factory sealed, '73 buildup with the original box but huge slicks and butchered rear wheelwells, MPC stock body from a "funny car" kit (when MPC provided a stock wheelbase body and a generic chassis for all their FC kits) with some cool blue tinted glass, a complete and restorable built MPC '73 and a Boss 351 reissue kit So instead of simply getting a building a model I made it more complicated than necessary and ended up with another half dozen projects on the "to-do" list

Not sure if the Model A radiator is the only one offered or just an option - the coupe/roadster have a '32 grille

Three distinct shades of "B5 blue 'cuda" from the internet 1970 EB5 1971 GB5 1974 KB5

I tried the Inca Gold Testors lacquer for GM Warbonnet Ye llow and found it to be a bit bright and sparkly for a factory color- will use it for something custom or a 70s style machine- looked like most of the product line was similar (would be great for a bass boat or dune buggy as well) 69-70 is a little lighter than the '71-'73 shade which in turn is a bit more vibrant and purplish than '74-'75 Lucerne Blue

I've always sprayed from the rattle can into a smaller container and not had issues Internet "research" shouldn't trump common sense

I seem to recall the "G" designation used on the 69-72 Grand Prix/ 70-72 Monte then "A Special" for the 73-81 models Also seem to remember G body production all ending about the same time for the various models in late '87 and where the Regal and Grand Prix names were carried over to the '88 W bodies the Buicks and Pontiacs were still built as "1987" models where the Chevrolet and Olds designated "1988"- Chevrolet not having a FWD Monte Carlo and the Olds being designated "Cutlass Supreme Classic" to differentiate between the W body FWD Cutlass Supreme- So it's possible to have an '87 G body that was built later than an '88

Just polishing with a compound or polish can leave a slight "waviness" to the paint even if it seems fairly smooth- all depends on how smooth the paint lays down and that seems to vary from paint job to paint job The smoother the paint the less work to make it smooth and shiny of course The less sanding and/or polishing the less chance of burning through the paint especially around edges Search the internet and there are people repainting 1:1 vehicles in their driveways with rollers then spending lots of time and effort sanding to make it look like a "normal" paint job

You keep on pushin babe Like I've never known before You know you drive me crazy child But I just want to see you on the floor

You know I'm born to lose And gambling's for fools But that's the way I like it baby I don't want to live forever And don't forget the joker

It goes on and on and on it's- Heaven and Hell (Oh Well) Black Sabbath lyrics by RJD- they always rhyme whether or not they seem to make any sense

I use the polishing cloths then wax- the grit I start with depends on how smooth the paint surface is- orange peel requires a little coarser start Just using a polish should remove the cloudiness but wont make a "rough" surface glassy smooth like sanding

Cadillac Ranch The Boss (not sure if he did it originally)

Unchain the colors Before my eyes Yesterday's sorrows Tomorrow's white lies Scan the horizon The clouds take me higher I shall return From out of the ......

Ride the tiger You can see his stripes but you know he's clean Oh don't you see what I mean Gotta get away.....

This one was almost completely clouded- no clear just polished out and no real noticable distortion to the metal flake