GrandpaMcGurk

Made some more mods to the frame and fenders.....I'll add a couple more cross members, a couple of filler panels and then I can do the suspension.

Well guys here's the bulk of the interior, the floor boards are dark brown flocking, the seats are s'posed to look like they are aluminum shells with padded back rests and seat cushions. I had to turn the buckets into a "love seat" to get them to fit inside the cab.......roll bar for sure! I'll touch up the paint before I install them.

It's your doing Jim....I was perfectly content working on BIG stuff, now you & the other FAST members have gone and got me involved in these little cars. You're right though........they can be a lot of fun. The thing that bugs me the most is simply that they aren't large enough to really go beserk with extreme detailing - at least not for me. Don't forget, my favorite tool is a 5lb. hammer.

What a riot, I can picture it with a rumble seat and a couple of figures in the back...LOL.

I considered a turtle deck Russ but it just didn't work for me. With the pick-up bed I can mount a couple of drag chutes on the tail gate......probably should have wheelie bars too. I just shot some white primer over the gray to better see where I still need sanding and I'm working on what little bit of interior there is. As far as the paint goes...I think I'm going with metallic Fiery Orange lacquer for a base coat and then dust on a couple coats of candy apple red (heavier on the fenders) and let it fade a little as it goes up the cab.......or at least I'll make an attempt at it. Thinking about a vinyl top with a chicken bone hole in the roof also.

Dick, I won't be using the plastic one in the photo (it was one I came across in my parts box while I was looking for parts to make the still with). I'll be putting several small wood kegs on the back of it......ready for delivery. BTW...what do you have in mind?

Simply brilliant Ira, now that's what I call a Hot Rod.

And the saga continues.....here's a few mock ups. Doing some eyeballin' to figure out what I have to do for the rear engine plate and trans-axle. It's going to be a tight fit but it looks like the pick-up bed will squeak in, I've decided to put the fuel cell in the bed and the battery under the hood. Wheeeeeee......it's starting to look like something.

Art, yeah it's a wild ride for sure......but heck, I'd give it a spin around the block. I remember back when I was a young'un...... I took my 2 four barrel, 327 '56 Chevy to the local drag strip (actually it was a long strip of pavement on a farmers south forty). Anyway to make this story short, I wound her up, the flag dropped (no Christmas trees back then), and I dropped the hammer. I was going as fast as I ever went in my life when the flywheel sheared it's bolts and came through the trans tunnel like a buzz saw blade, it didn't shatter until it hit the dash and busted the windshield. You guessed it...I had no scatter shield either, but hey I had a roll bar. Rules and safety equipment were a little skinny in those days. I walked away needing just a few stitches in my right leg. I've never been known for having a lot of sense. Back to the model..... The T frame in the kit just wasn't up to the task so I took one of the Revell Street Willys frames and cast it in resin, cut off some junk and narrowed it a bit along with some tweeking here & there. I would have altered the kit frame but I need it for another project and I was too cheap to buy another kit just for the frame. I already had some resin laying around I wanted to use up before it went bad. Dropped the rear fenders down about an 1/8th inch to allow more clearance for the headers. I finished up the front engine mounting plate and gave it a test fit.

Krylon has textured paint in spray cans, some is fine enough to look like scale sprayed on undercoating. I've even used it for vinyl tops. Color doesn't matter as it can be top coated with any color you want. Just be careful not to get the course stuff as it has too much texture to look right. Best part is that it comes in large cans for just a few bucks.

How many of you guys purchase a model knowing exactly what you are going to do with it, right down to the paint color? I tend to buy 'em if they blow my skirt up, look at the parts, get a rough idea of what I want to do and then fly by the seat of my pants. I may be halfway through a build and some other modification strikes my fancy.......instead of doing the coulda' woulda' shoulda' gig I just dig back into it. What about you guys......are you able to plan your work and then work your plan?

Ocala National Forest. Technically Ocklawaha, that's about 50 miles from Daytona.

It won't show because of a cover & rear mounting plate, but in theory the engines will be united by Hi-Vo chains sharing a single output shaft. The output from both engines will then go thru an auto-trans axle to the tires.

3rd photo in your first post at the begining of this thread.

Thanks guys, glad you like it so far. I did a scotch tape mock-up to get a better idea of where this little truck is going, so keep in mind that the engines will mount lower now that I have a better feel for where I need to cut the fender aprons. Had to do a fair amount of notching to get the cab to nestle down in the front fenders. I'll also have to fab up some sort of trans-axle as I don't want to stretch the fenders and frame enough to allow room for a conventional drive shaft and pumpkin. I also have to make a hood to fit & and a bed to wrap around the heaters. Still haven't decided whether to go with a traditional paint job.....you know, maybe black fenders and a green body or more contemporary eye popping colors, perhaps candies.

Way cool!

The back section of the coupe with an added filler piece will become the back of the pickup cab. I'll slide the cab forward on the fenders ( yup, fenders) from the stock position and fab up a stubby hood. The gas tank and battery will live under the hood behind the radiator. For power there will be TWO 572 cubic inch, blown big block Ford engines (punched out 460's) side by side with tuned exhaust & auto trans. Not going to leave much room for cargo in the pickup bed is it? Oh, well.

While waiting for the landscaping plaster etc. to cure on the dio's for the Alien Rat Killer and the Hill Billy Hot Rod, figured I'd start on this little pug pickup. I started by doing some plastic surgery on the Revell '25 T chopped coupe...photo's show where I'm cutting it.

Virgil, could you tell me where you got those figures shown in your first post? Thanks.

That's all the pics for the Hilly Billy Hot Rod, now it's going back to the workbench to get turned into a "moonshine runner"....here's a sneak peek at the still and stake bed.

I bought one of these kits..... opened the box, tossed in some scraps of balsa wood, glue, toothpicks and rust...put the cover back on, shook it and when I opened the box back up this Hillbilly Hot Rod fell out.

Thanks Rick....but it's getting a 409 with 2 fours.

On the outside of the body there is no need to spot or stitch weld. Simply run a filler bead the length of the seam. Any pinholes or low spots can be filled at this time. What we have now is a very strong bond because for all intent and purposes it a solid piece of plastic again. Now final sanding can be done and if any bondo is needed it will be a very small amount and no glue was used. Best part is I won't have to worry about ghost lines, filler lifting or shrinkage showing up later in my paint.

I shot a little primer on the weld after lightly sanding any real rough spots so that it would show up better in the photo.....no I didn't primer it to prevent my weld from rusting, LOL.

The last step on the inside of the body is to weld a thin strip of plastic or rod (filler) over the stitch weld smoothing it out as you go along. A lot like real welding...huh?