GrandpaMcGurk

A few more mock-ups with the rear fender added. I'll be using brass tubing to bend up some handle bars.

Here's a few more mock-up pics....

I've started fabricating and mocking up the front fork bracing. The blue plastic pieces are from the kit (all unnecessary tabs, speed-o drive etc. removed) and the white pieces are the fabbed up parts.

Look closely folks......this may surprise you.

Tim, Tony........could one of you guys post a couple pics showing a part or 2 printed in the newer materials...I think a photo showing the difference between the surface finishes of the lower cost printed material and the ultra detail would be very helpful for the members. I know I was floored when I saw Tony's email pics of......... I think it was a 1/16th scale Chevy engine block. I doubt that it would need more than minor finishing if any before primer and paint.

Skip, Harry......yeah, we got a bit off-topic there.......no worries, just a couple old farts scratching an itch that needed scratching I guess. Oh well, the battery on my hover-round should be charged up by now so I can get back to the workbench....... In answer to your question Skip...next up will be bracing the front forks and setting up the drive train.....some of these bikes had functional pedals as well as the engine drive and the earlier ones had leather belts (engaged with a hand lever that acted as a clutch) driving the rear wheel.

I can live with that......thanks.

What's the matter Al...do you need a hug? Whether it takes me 5 or 20 years to finish one of my personal models so what? I'm having fun and enjoying what I'm doing, if my posts irritate or keep you from building your models, your way, in your own time frame I'm sure MCM has an ignore button somewhere so that you don't need to be bothered reading my posts.. As long as you've rattled my cage...do you just not like what I'm doing with the bicycle kit?

Real.

The way things stand now Jim, I should be able to make it. Been a little off my game lately.......... for those that knew him, our dear friend Mario Luchinni passed away July 20, 2011.

Thanks for your interest guys...while I'm not really concerned with building an exact replica of any particular bike, the pic that Harry posted is the "look" I'm after. My thinking was that the bike kit would make for a great starting point without having to do that much more scratch building or toss out a lot of coin.......just plain ol' fashioned modeling. I can still remember back when I was a youngster and aftermarket anything simply wasn't available. You had what was in the box, period. If you wanted something different you had to create it yourself. Skip, I haven't decided for sure yet on the bobbed rear fender...we'll see if it hurts my face when I get a little further along. I set this project aside temporarily so I could get a little more done on "Termite Candy" for a club meeting Sat. but will be picking the racer back up shortly. As soon as I have the time I'll do a mini tutorial on the "leather look" paint application if you folks think you'd find it useful.

I have a Dremel sitting on my bench with a long flexible cable....it used to be that I would set the speed on the motor and then use whatever bit was needed on the small easy to handle cable end. I also have long hair and a full beard.........well buddy, got too close to what I was working on and you guessed it, the sanding drum was spinning like mad when it caught my hair....couldn't reach the motor to shut it off, as you know Dremels are pretty powerful and it just kept tearing out more hair. I had to grab the cable with both hands and rip it from the twisted hair while still running. My wife still grins whenever she hears me using a rotary tool...by the way, it now has a foot operated speed control.

Not much longer........waiting on files, there will be a long version explaining what caused the delay posted on-site when it's back up. Don't ya just love 'puters?

Skip, as you know the engine in the Monogram/Revell is pretty much plain vanilla, don't assume I'm taking a cheap shot at R/M as I think the modelers get a lot of bang for the bucks with their large scale kits. The XK that TDR produces wasn't designed specically for the R/M XKE as a replacement engine. The TDR version has Weber carbs and the TDR trans, block etc. has way more detail than the kit piece. Most of the R/M Jag kit stuff I have has been cut up, altered or used so I can't give you in depth comparision shots. I do however have a partially built TDR kit and if you want I can post pics of it along with TDR pics of the kit and an example that Syd built for us etc. Also keep in mind that TDR can now supply items in a newer material that requires very litte prep work before painting. Yeah...it costs a tad more but it's something that we're working with. Just tell me what you're looking for and I'll do what I can to answer your questions.....fair enough?

Lee, I've set the entire months of Aug. & Sept. aside to get the cuda into glass, ready to ship. It along with 2 other projects I've been working on will be buttoned up in that time period. As far as the cuda goes, it will ship "body only".........any additional goodies for the body (dash, grille, wheels, interior pieces will be determined at that time. You investors will however be receiving a dash board and a few other parts when the masters have been fit to the castings. The TDR Roadster isn't years out.......in fact it's being broken up into sub assemblies now for those that want to build one in installments or perhaps don't want an entire kit. Keep in mind guys this isn't a skill level one kit, sure Syd has run into some issues, that was the whole point of having him build a prototype. Running changes have and are still being made been to make assembly a little easier. If you're looking for a kit that's simply assemble, paint and call it a day...the Roadster isn't for you. It's going to require fitting and some fabrication depending on what you want to do with it. Looks like there may also be a curside kit for those that just want a less involved shelf model. Skip, I'll answer the question about the XK engine in another post.

No worries guys...SMC was undergoing a switch to a dedicated sever, there were some data base problems etc. Anyway the host and the admin. are working to get it all straightened out and back up. Check in periodically....we'll be back up as soon as possible. Regardless of what it takes, SMC will be back on-line soon.

I added a fixed spacer to the slide rod (arrow), the length of the spacer will allow me to determine the amount of preload on the door pin. Cut a slot in the door skin for the slide shaft movement. I'll be using small doll house brass door hinges. I thought I would try using small dice for the door pulls.....drilled a hole and bonded one to the door slide shaft. Also cut a spacer from tubing to go between the knob and the door skin covering the metal slide shaft. Here's a few pics of what it would look like installed....but I don't think I like them...what do you guys think? Perhaps an ornate brass knob of some sort would be more in keeping with the stage coach theme? I will however use one for a shift knob.

I grabbed a couple of finishing nails to make the door pin and handle shaft from. I wanted this assembly to be stong enough to hold up under use because once the outer skin is on, that's it. If it were to break it would be very difficult to repair. Pieces assembled....... and loose fit in the door. I think the photos show how this latch will function, I will cut slots in the inner & outer door skins to allow the door to be unlatched from either side. When the latch is released, the spring will return the slide pin to the latched position.

I cut a piece of brass tubing, this will become the rail for the latch slide. I cut some plastic strips to reinforce the area where the latch slider will live...this will prevent the sliding latch from wearing through the wood door skin. Drilled holes in the door frame to allow installation of the rail & slider, the rail will be epoxied in place when the assembly is complete.

I sanded a piece of tubing flat on one side and bonded it to a short length of square stock. Other than spring compression this will become the only moving part of the latch.

Inner interior panel and door frame. The door panel & frame being tapered and fitted to the opening. Gathered up a handful of scrap metal & plastic tubing as well as a few bits of scrap plastic. The addition of a spring from a discarded Bic cigarette lighter should give me just about everything I need to make a spring loaded door latch.

Thanks for the encouragement guys, I appreciate it. Started fabricating some doors for the coach.....the rough opening was squared up and the door frame cut from 1/32" birch plywood. I used the birch because it's denser than balsa and will add support for the brass hinges. It won't wear as rapidly when the door is opened, closed or the spring loaded door latch used.

Kinda nice here in Florida, no hurricanes today....think I'll go to the beach. Honestly, after doing a tour in Viet Nam the summer time heat and humidity here doesn't seem bad at all. Try stompping around in the jungle with full gear...115 & up degrees (real temp. not heat index) in the shade, not to mention the humidity....now that's downright uncomfortable.

A little more has been done on this project.....I lowered the rear luggage platform and added a rolled section under it. Drivers foot-board added, interior seat bases (these will be upholstered at a later date) also. As you can see in the photos I've started filling, rough sanding and sealing the wood. Still have to add window frames & doors......and the list goes on and on.