GrandpaMcGurk

Here's a few more pics, I have to extend the blower snout a little so that I can add a v-belt to run the water pump and alternator. Also need to add dip stick, upper/lower water hoses, fuel lines and carb linkage. Yes, I know the valve cover is upside down in this photo...no worries, it's not glued on yet. It's for sure going to be a snug fit to get it between the front fenders.

Yeah Jim I was there......but I'm not an ol' guy, heck I'm only 65. Hee. I think there are as many ways to do a thing as there are people, keeps it interesting for sure. Don't forget it's your fault I'm building these these small scale models to start with...seems like I every time I log into MCM I learn something new. This engine is a late '60s 427 B.B. It came with that old bolt through oil canister (pain in the butt to change if you're a 1:1 grease monkey) so I shortened it, rounded off the bottom and painted it to look like a spin on Fram type oil filter with an adapter(at least in mind). Core plugs are in and still have a lot of touch up to do as you can see, but she's starting to come together. Starter, soleniod and wiring started...

Lookin' good!

I wanted to see if I could come up with something to give the valve covers on this engine an anodized look on the cheap. I've tried candies over "chrome" paint etc. and never been real happy with the results. I'm not using an airbrush or any expensive stuff on this build, just rattle cans etc. to keep it within our current economy crunch hobby budgets. Here's something I came across at Wally world...... Disregarding the can directions about polished stuff and all that other info that we men don't read anyway.......I grabbed some stock "kit" bow tie chome plated covers out of the parts box. Sprayed a couple of tests and was pleased with the results so I painted the Moroso covers I'll be using for this build. Several light coats of the paint with a couple of minutes dry time in between coats followed by a coat of clear the next day produced these....these large photos really don't show just how much the "chrome" shows through the paint and being windy and raining outside I can't take pics out in the sunlight, but they really POP, I think you'll get the idea.

I made a base and pin for the bottom of what will become the distributor cap......painted the inside of the cap flat black. The slot in the side is for the vacuum advance as this will be an old school blown street engine.

Ira, you never fail to amaze me. Your "creative imagination" is second to none.

The Michaels here in Ocala Fl. carries the Martha Stewart glitter stuff but they also have flocking in 4oz. containers The label says "Recollections Flocking Powder". The label on the back says distributed by Michael's Stores, Inc. I just picked up some black, white, blue and Walnut. Nada at Hobby Lobby. I had to ask a salesperson but they found it.

Works for me...later. We'd better get back on track "under glass" before Harry starts slapping us around.

I'm confused, would a 1/6th scale Willys be a big Willy?

That's the sound sea sick sailors make when they are tossing their cookies over the side.

Consider it done Jim.

I cut off a piece of the thinned out tubing about the same height as the body of the kit distributor.

Well, let's get started on this distributor. I grabbed a piece of tubing from the stock stash about the same O.D. as the kit distributor. As you can see it's fairly thick walled so I drilled it out a little and moved up to a slightly larger bit and thinned it out some more. I started with a smaller bit first so that I wouldn't split the tubing.

Ha, Jim you know I never build anything box stock and I won't be using that nose anyway.......you're welcome to it and headlights, and other parts circled below. I'm keeping the radiator though.

If you decide to use the Roth nose, I have an unmolested complete kit Jim........if you need pics or want the kit I'm sure you could sweet talk or trade me for parts or whatever, we have a club meeting coming up pretty soon anyway. Don't forget we'll be getting our '40 Ford pickups too.

Mmmmmmmm, widen it and make a street rod huh? As far as the headlights go, perhaps shorten the dragster front end a bunch and mold in the nose from Roth's Outlaw. The Outlaw bug eye front fender style would look right at home with the rest of the body.

Paul, there may be better ways out there or some that suit your building style more, all I'm doing is showing the way I do it. If it works for you you're welcome to it. Here's an easy way out if you use a magneto rather than a distributor...all I do is drill one hole through the top of the mag and run the wires through it. If you look at a few pics of magnetos you'll see that the wires come out of the sides rather than up and this is close enough for me with these 1/25th models.

No worries Rob, all it takes is a few dozen failures....you can read though all the stuff about painting that's out there, but without the hands on trial and error it's never quite right. BTW........my first attempts at mile deep show finishes looked like they were done with a broom and a gallon of house paint, ocassionally I'll get one that still does.

John, I had a Harley and a couple of other bikes when the 750 meet the nicest people first came out. I really wasn't into rice bikes at the time but was intrigued with the 4 hole engine and all those carbs. Anyway, I've had a couple since then and your OHV valve cover looks just fine to me!

Virgil, I figured when I retired I'd have all kinds of time to work on models...yeah right! About the only time I get for fun builds is sandwiched in-between "FINALLY" getting these 1/8th glass Cuda bodies done, yard work, my full size toys, SMC, F.A.S.T club, other hobbies and keeping up with the old womans honey dew list........I think I had more time when I working full time. Top all that off with the fact that like the old saying goes...."the faster I go, the behind-er I get". Oh well, where did I put that kit distributor? Ahhh.....here it is. Man this thing is tiny....I suppose I could drill 8 tiny holes for the plug wires, one for the coil wire and oh yeah, another for the vacuum advance with a cat hair drill bit. That's assuming I had rock steady hands, 10x magnifying eyeballs and the patience of a saint. I'll be 65 this year and I really don't qualify for any of the above. Large scale wouldn't be a problem but in 1/25th I had to come up with something less stressful that looked good......after all, supposed to be fun right? I think it'll be easier to make my own. Next post I'll show how I did it.

You guys are more than welcome.......glad it's something you can use. Now I'll see if I can figure out a builder friendly (or at least easier) way to wire the distributor cap. I get so caught up in details at times that I tend over look the K.I.S.S. principal.

Cut 2 lengths of wire per head, use waterproof markers or paint to simulate the plug boots in the center of the wires. Slip one end of the wire into the first hole and the other end in the second hole. Presto......4 plug wires with boots. If I wanted to detail the head even more I'd slip a short length of slightly larger wire insulation over the plug wire and push it down flush with the head instead of painting the center section. A little touch up on the boots and these heads will be ready to permanently attach to the block. NO WAY are these wires going to pull out!

Nothing bugs me more than taking the time to drill holes, run plug wires, install the engine only to have a plug wire pull out of the head after the exhaust and everything else is attached. Besides, installing them one at a time is a pain. Here's what I've come up with to eliminate all that frustration. I paint the head, drill the holes and select a proper size wire for the plug wires first. I try to use wire that has a smaller diameter than the wire that I use for battery cables so that the scale looks right.

Here's a few more pics....most of the work on this build is going into the chassis. Very little of the Lindy "curbside" belly pan was suitable for this hot rod. I'll be using an L-88 BB Chevy and 4-speed. Not sure yet if I'll go with a blower, turbo or dual quads. I'll probably use side pipes with cut outs as well as dual mufflers for "cruising" the country club. A little more filing, fitting, sanding and the chassis will be ready for paint.

You're right Pete......'35 Auburn, but I have a "curbside" Lindy kit.