shucky

Greg no prob! Here are a few that may help. Big block twin turbo. Show mounted on standard 4 bolt flange. The little pipe poking out on each header is where the external wastegates will be mounted. Here is another twin turbo on the dyno. Here you can see some configurations for the intercooler piping, etc. Your intercooler piping (if you use an intercooler) will be routed however necessary based upon your application/vehicle/fitment. You can use this though as reference to WHERE the connections are properly made. Non intercooled twin turbo small block illustration. This engine has "log" type exhaust mani's not tubular headers. You can see the piping on the cold side of the turbos gets routed straight into the intake on the engine since no intercooler is present. Also, towards the bottom on each side you can see the external wastegates poking out. These are mounted on smaller diameter tubing with small flange off each exhaust mani/header. Hope these help! Take care, Mike

Greg, are you doing a single or twin turbo 427? I can probably provide a couple pics tonight when I get home that may help.

Greg, I have plenty of reference pics. What kind of engine are you putting the turbo on? You can also try an image search on yahoo or google. Also, thanks again to everyone who gave kind words and placed orders. Much appreciated!

I get all my Alumilite stuff direct from Alumilite. There is no telling how long some of this stuff sits at stores or resellers.

I use Alumilite's Dow Corning HS2 and Alumilite white. Zero issues with no need to experiment with someone else's. I use mold release every 4-6 pulls on all my molds.

Marcos your Vega is awesome, I remember when you built that. Thanks for the compliments on my rotary also! Only photo etched part is the linkage arm. The exhaust mani + turbo is scratch built. The hose couplings are sections of aluminum tubing painted with Tamiya paint. I'm thinking about bringing a couple old shelved builds back out to finish them up and this is one of them. Good luck to the OP with your build, hope you share the build here on the forum.

Hi there, I have this kit and its been an on/off project for me. As with most Tamiya kits, its very nice. The chassis is a bit crude but overall is workable. I was swapping the engine and chassis from the Tamiya with the body of an Aoshima kit. The engine builds up really nice and can be customized to your likings. Here is what I did with mine ...

Donn cool you'll be there, I'll be on the lookout for you. I've not met anyone from the MCM forum before..it would be neat to get more members together at the same time. I should bring a MCM sign I'm into all sorts of things so the expo is a blast for me, I do not just look at plastic kit releases. There are tools, air brushes, r/c everything, die cast, etc,etc. And, it's also a place to meet owners and reps from so many hobby related companies + plenty of great vendors.

Just a heads up, the iHobby Expo is this weekend in Rosemont, IL. Its the nations largest hobby show. Website is www.giantshow.com I'll be there first thing Saturday morning!

Good question Brad! I've done some research and like the looks of the Prochargers. The masters will mostly be built from various styrene stock. I hope to get a master done within next week and I will post pics and more details then.

Well, the reason for the 2 week off period was because I was travelling with the wife. Then when I returned I got sick. Sooooo .... I'm better now and back in the groove. The s/c's are next on the list. Be patient for the next few weeks and when they are ready I'll post an update. Thanks for following along!

Frank nice job so far! It all looks great man, keep up the good work. Cant wait to see more.

I did just mention I was working on other projects and had issues with the masters no? When there is an update Ill let everyone know.

Sorry guys for the delays, I got involved in some other items and had a couple issues with my first couple masters but these or something similar are still in the works and I should be getting back to the workbench soon. Thanks for following along and your patience.

Hi everyone, first ... thanks to all those who have purchased resin turbo's and misc. parts from me. Very much appreciated. Just a notice to all - I'm not accepting any turbo orders or misc. part orders for the next two weeks. I will begin accepting new orders on Monday 10/11/10. If you have a pending order, it will ship in the next couple days. Thanks as always. New product coming soon will be resin centrifugal superchargers in multiple sizes.

Ahhhh, I didn't know you could cure RTV under pressure. I thought you could but didn't see anyone make mention of it. I've had good luck w/out one so far, but may take a stab at it now. Thanks a whole bunch Ryan!

I've been tempted many times to make a post about the term "pro built" and the modelers who use this description for themselves, especially those found on eBay. I didn't want to offend anyone so I've always bit my tongue and kept quiet, and personally never used the term "pro built" to EVER describe anything I've ever done as I cant stand the usage of the term. We are modelers and there are an endless varying degree to all of our skill sets. Should I call myself an Olympic Modeler because I used to enter contests? No offense to ANYONE or anyones skill level, but it seems commonplace for those ebayers using the term "pro built" to only have plug wires and flocking (if that much). Either those people like patting themselves on the back, someone lied to them years ago about the quality of their builds, or they think if they include the words "pro built" that it will bring extra $$ to their auction.

Ryan, if I understood my research correctly, if you pressure cast your resin you would have needed to de-air (vacuum) your mold making material (rtv). If there are air pockets in your mold (from not being de-aired) and you pressure cast your resin you can cause / risk imperfections in your reproduced piece as these air pockets try to move around. Does this sound about right? If so, what is the purpose of having a pressure pot if you do not own a vacuum pump/chamber? This thread is a wealth of info so far. Thanks fella's.

Thanks for the info. I know its not immune to getting contaminated, perhaps just not as sensitive as what the OP is using.

The problem discussed here is the "foaming" the OP is getting as well as others apparently. David mentions he uses a resin that only foams when not pressured. My thoughts in reading through the posts were, "why use a resin that requires pressure, or risk foaming/does foam at all ...?" I'm not stating I use some miracle resin. I use Alumilite white. I get fantastic results w/out pressure. Do I get some pin sized holes from time to time? Sure. But this is the exception and not the rule. I've not done any large items like bodies, but mostly engines, wheels, seats, etc. So far, most of what I've poured does not have any bubbles or pin sized holes. With sticking to the topic, I was just commenting on why use a resin that foams (if not pressured), or foams when humid, or foams at all. Plus, I live in the same vicinity as the OP and know that my resin which I've left in my basement for the past 2-3 months (summer) has not foamed at all ever. I actually left it down there as an experiment to "see" if anything would change or happen to it, as my other jugs of resin and rubber are kept upstairs. Answer = nope. No difference or change. I was just thinking why not use something that gives you the option of using pressure or not w/out having to worry about contamination (foaming) or not using pressure (foaming). You could pressure Alum. white if you wanted but do not have to in order to achieve very very nice results. I do not know about Task9 resin, I'll take a look at it. Maybe Alum. white does not fit your application / requirements? But you can get outstanding results as well using other options.

Can I ask why use a resin that has to be pressured when there are plenty that do not which cure wonderfully and without bubbles? I live in Chicago burbs and it's been extremely humid this summer and I have left some spare jugs of resin in my somewhat humid/damp basement with zero issues that you speak of. I would switch to a different brand.

Micro Mark stuff is rebadged smooth on. There is no need to pour your rtv in small thin coats. If you have any concern about trapping an air bubble due to an undercut or have very small details that you want to ensure are picked up you can "paint" your mixed rtv on your master first to ensure there are no air bubbles then pour in your rtv as you normally would. Simply using good products does not guarantee good results. Many or should I said most issues people have with resin casting is not from the products they use, but user error.

Cesar, wicked nice job so far. You've got a lot of work into this build for sure. Cant wait to see more! I may have to borrow that idea with the brake booster lol ..

Hey Mike, I was going to tell you via email to come here, but it looks like you've been here all along Thanks for the comments everyone, lots more planned + coming soon.

Well, an update is an update no? The body is in the "ugly" stages now .. all the trim has been removed and I'm filling panel lines, marker lights, etc. I also have a small repair around the window area on the pass. side where I went a little nutty with the filing Plus, started work on scratch building the cylinder heads from styrene stock. Much more to do on these in the coming days and when finished they will be cast in resin and made available in a conversion kit with the Cosworth covers. I'll be mocking up the engine as best as I can to ensure the turbo's and everything else fit in the engine compartment and determine modifications to the hood. Stay tuned. Sorry about the delay on the wheels also, I have a bunch of rubber to pour and I've been waiting to do it all at once