Jairus

It was the "suggestion" but I have YET to see a single Japanese or European build-up posted on this thread or any other with regard to the subject! My addition to the "suggestion" was that everyone build whatever they wanted as long as the build represent the builders Political, Religious and left/right beliefs. Which leaves it open to whatever the builder feels most interested in. Don't you think that this seems like a more broad idea Nick? I like what I am seeing James... but I need to see other builds before I spend any more time cutting styrene. (Back to the brass for now...)

Ok, my project goes back into the box until I see some other projects progress! I got better things to do and I have no interest in Japanese kits and much less interest in Japanese cars...... Ciao!

I agree, but that is still not an answer. Are you a politician by any chance?

Harry, you are sooooo bad! :ph34r:

HEY! Were are all the other builds that started this thread? There should be some progress on at least two "Rice Rockets", a Corvair and two other Street Rods....? Am I to be the only one to post his political beliefs through plastic come the end of the tread?

Thanks Virgil! Spent an hour last night building up the rest of the floor for this rod. My research turned up nothing on what the floor should look like... so this is my interpretation. The depth of the embossed ribbing is too deep but will be mostly hidden by frame transmission, wiring and plumbing. I also added some texture to the underside and firewall before priming so as to take the dirt and grime weathering to be added later.

I also forgot the hubcaps. I'm pretty sure that it also comes with GMC dog dish hub caps....

Just for your information, The Shawn Carpenter trans kit comes with: Chrome plated resin Grill Resin Hood Chrome plated resin Bumper Dash fender badges (chrome) hood center badge (chrome) (I think there is s tailgate in there too but I lost mine) (No, it's not for sale.... )

Sorry to hear that you are away from your workbench Virgil. That must frustrate you to no end huh? Well, at least you can spend the time until mid August planning and going over the steps in your mind... huh? I know that I would be frustrated for sure! "The Conservative Rat"! Yes, that is what I have decided to call this. It will be a conservative looking and traditional built rod but with a cool vintage patina and some slight "Rock-a-Billy" rod influence. Because I personally like that trend because of it's unrestricted style! UPDATE: Stayed up late last night working on the Zoomie headers. Pulled the one header I made, featured in an MCM article, and created a second mirror image piece for the other side. Now the rod has some loud noise makers and a little added ATTITUDE! Here I have linked to that article for making the Zoomie pipes now posted on this here forum so those of you who didn't get that issue can see how it was done. Ciao!

How to Make Zoomy Flathead Headers! The following trick was first published in a 2001 or '02 issue of MCM. I am re-posting it here for all those who might not have seen it previously. Sometimes in this hobby it is better (and easier) to scratch-build something new than it is to buy it and have to modify it to make it fit. Such is the case here where " cheap" copper electrical wire is used to make tube headers. The copper bends easy, solders securely and takes paint beautifully. Copper wire comes in various gauges and can be found at the hardware store. Ask for grounding wire so you don’t have to strip insulation. The copper wire give the right tubing but you also need a taper tube for the exhaust exit and collector and this can be sourced from old paint brush ferrules. Ferrules come in a variety of sizes, shapes and materials too. So, I try to choose chrome plated brass so I can solder to them but unfortunately most paintbrushes are now made with aluminum so 3-minute epoxy is the next best attachment method. Look for a smooth finish with NO seams and a size and taper to fit your particular project. Buy some extras for other projects, and... heck, you can always paint with them! 1 The basis for this project are two low priced paint brushes. Look for the small end of the ferrule to approximate the size of the 14 gauge wire used for header pipes. Keep your eyes open at your local arts and crafts store for a paint brush sale. Grab as many as you can afford at the time because you’ll end up using them one way or another. 2 Another item needed for this project is this neat small header flange set by Detail Master. 3 Strip insulation from 14 gauge wire with a set of wire strippers if needed. 4 Wire is bent and formed to look like this. File down the end of the 2nd tube and then insert both into the pre-drilled block. The ends must touch for the solder joint to be strong. Just “Tack†solder at this point. Then remove and clamp in a table vise to solder more securely without heat from the soldering iron distorting the kit engine block. 5 After soldering, shape and sand the joint smooth. 6 The paint brush ferrule is cut loose from it’s handle, cleaned out at both ends and shaped like this with a dremel bit. 7 Then the ferrule is test fit with 3rd header tube just to see how it all fits together. 8 Backside view shows where the 3rd header tube fits into the collector. Now use plenty of 3 minute epoxy to glue the pieces together. 9 After the epoxy has cured, sand the joints down smooth. Remove the headers and slip the Model Master header flanges down the tubes. You might have to use a “rat tail†file to open the holes a bit. Then set the header and the flanges into place aginst the block. Use CA glue sparingly here! 10 The finished headers should look like this if you didn’t use too much glue and are able to remove them. And that is how it’s done!

Yeah, the Corvair was a strange machine to be sure. Dad had to change the push rod tube seals more than a few times. (He hated oil on the driveway... still does!) In all the years of driving that Corsa I never threw a fan belt... .but the fuel pump stopped working once. I had a bottle opener in the glovebox but no tools. With the bottle opener I removed the top of the fuel pump (5 screws) removed the two valves... noticing that one had a broken plastic cage which allowed the disc valve to drop down. By reversing the two valve cages (one mounted up and the other mounted down) I managed to get the pump back together again in 10 minutes and back on the road. Never replaced that pump either.... hmmmm. Hey, Virgil! Where's your project? Actually I only work on my car for an hour a day. The rest of the time is spent painting slotcar bodies, laying out brochures, soldering, brush lettering, scratchbuilding stuff for other people. Ragged edge of poverty but no stress and I like working by myself. J

Well Mark, this is what modeling is all about! And just think, there are only a few hundred parts left that need just that attention..... I would have hogged some glue in there and then weathered the heck out of it thus hiding the flash. But I am glad to hear you building.. now, can we see it too? Fotki is easy to use and you can get a free account. Photobucket is easier to use but the don't seem to lay the files out in any organized way. I spent last night working on this rather than poking fun at liberals. Got the floor pan cut from the fender unit and attached to the body proper. Firewall added.... now I have to scratchbuild the rest of the floor. Engine now has heads, intake and two Model Car Garage resin 97's. Whoo hoo! (Looks like I gotta spend some time filing and sanding that two-piece oil pan.... sheesh, why didn't Revell do the oil pan as a seperate piece for such a well detailed kit as the '48 Woody turned out to be? But... that is what modeling is all about! )

That's a vent. Lots of ways to do this. None of them easy. 1. If the resin is too thick to cut through then replace the side panels with .020 styrene which you will cut the side vent out with a sharp #11 blade. Then added some thicker sheet to the back side forming the edges. Lightly sand the joints and prime. Fill any imperfections with putty, sand and prime. Then trim the outside edges to match the resin hood and remove the resin sides and put your new, thinner and better looking side panels. 2. Another way is to carve a mold and vacuum form the vents into two flat sheets. Trim the panels using the resin as a pattern cutting one left and the other right and then use these to replace the resin side panels. 3. Another way is if the resin hood sides are thick enough is to use the dremel to cut into the hood sides and sand and form the vents in the side panels WITHOUT REGARD for the forward edge.... which will be replaced with a thin .010 piece of styrene once the sanding is done. Any one of the three will work just fine, just takes time and a little modeling skills.

Wow a coupe!!! Love that car, who made it? MPC I figure. Can I have it?

That is on line... more on the shelves, trust me. Give them a call!

Contact Caboose Hobbies in Denver Co. They have figures of all sizes for the train guys. I have been there personally twice and they have maybe 10 different sizes of figures with the greatest variety in HO scale and most are from the era you describe.

Updated pic of the project. Body has been swaped for a very traditional '29 roadster highboy and the motor decided upon is a 1948 flathead with 2 deuce carbs... oh yyyyeeeeaaahhhh!

Updated pic of the project. Body has been swaped for a very traditional '29 roadster highboy and the motor decided upon is a 1948 flathead with 2 deuce carbs... oh yyyyeeeeaaahhhh!

Maybe if you told us a little about the project......?

Nice looking model!

Funny how Nader avoided including the BMW and humble VW in his book.... both with swing arm rear suspension!

Mark, This was Greg's idea. However, since this is a Republic... mob rule should decide. In other words... build what you want as long is it demonstrates your political, religious and/or sexual preferences. Since it started with Japanese cars... and then rat rods... and then grew to street rods... I suggest anything goes and have yet to hear anyone complain. Incidentally I learned to drive on a 1966 Corvair Corsa with the Fetch Sprint option. (Are you familiar with that one?) Anyway, my Dad bought it from a buddy who needed the money for $500 bucks in '69. Anyway, we had it for 12 years and I loved driving something that quick and handled as well as a Porsche... if you know what I mean? Dale, I love it... Keep going!

Your just too cool for this room huh Z-man?