Jairus

rickr442 might have some good information about this car. In that it was not actually a '73 but a '71-'72 that was modified with a '73 grill. Key to this is the bumpers. Ford moved the front and rear bumpers out a few inches for the Federally mandated 5-mile per hour requirement on all new cars. It really shows if you know what you are looking for! Eleanor on the other hand has the tight look of a 1972. Also, by 1973, all Mach 1's had the "Ram Air" hood but only a few were actually connected to air-cleaner as that was an extra cost option. Eleanor on the other hand had a flat standard hood. Not easy to find in 1/25th scale.... but could be pulled from a Johan Funny Car of the same year. I checked and it is the closest thing out there if there are no resin items available! The side rockers were painted flat black like most '71 and '72 Mach's without the side stripe. Engine in 1973 would be a 351 Cleveland with a 4bbl carb. Chances are that the movie car was not modified much as the '72 with the 351 had plenty of power to do the stunts! Hope this helps. Edit: added a photo from the Los Angeles Times of the actual movie car that can be found here.)

Bill, Nice door line fit! That is a huge problem for most modelers who open doors... but not something hard for a "God" like you! (Someone on another thread mentioned you being the closest thing to a Modeling God we have here) At any rate, I wanted to suggest you look for Petg. for your vacuum forming windows. This is the material that all "blister-packs" are made with. The plastic is easy to heat, stays shiny and forms completely. I have used it for years making complete slot car bodies and window glass, fenders and such. Cast a windscreen for a Lotus 25 just yesterday morning!!! No worries... but you will need to contact your local plastics supply and ask for .010 or .015. NO THICKER! Two reason: not realistic thickness and the plastic holds the heat too long thus transferring the heat to the master. If you are using a plastic master, it CAN be warped due to too much heat transfer from the plastic. I NEVER use clear styrene. Byuterate is better, Lexan best but Petg easier to aquire and kind of in-between. The '55 is looking good!

Kevin, nobody messed up any section! A few people complained that their poor delicate sensibilities were "Offended" by an organized and polite discussion about subjects they would rather not spend any time worring about. Therefore the moderator was forced to change the rules and ultimately shut down the Rants and Raves section. Thusly reducing this wonderful forum, originally set up "FOR THE MEMBERS", to talk about ONLY plastic toys instead of adult conversations. If I am not able to discuss real life while you are free to post about music I have no interest in... or Joe Blow feels free to post about his bypass surgery or dead dog. Then I am going to complain and make a fuss. Because the result is that this forum will soon be going the way of the SAE forum. Not because Gregg has come down heavy handed, no, to his credit he allowed the discussion to continue for a long time! No, I fault the few limited and shallow minds here on this forum who felt that freedom of speech was something they didn't like and therefor complained. I have a list of names and I aim to misbehave if I see any one of them posting anything not model related! Understand now Kevin!?!?

Tom Daniel's stuff always impressed me and inspired me to do my best work. Such as this one:

And this has WHAT to do with model cars?

We were merged into the slow lane of mediocrity by the moderator due to the complaints of a few vanilla modelers on this forum of you must know….. But that is just my humble opinion. Now, go build something....

Looks great! Like the second one best...

Roberto, I LOVE it!!!! Great idea and very nice body work. You will have no problem making the club pick! Here is something along those same lines.....

Started with this huh?

I posted a nice how-to on this forum about spring loaded hood hinges. This would be how I would do the gull-wing doors if it were my model. Why not take a look? Of course, you will need a latch to keep it closed then... magnets would work fine!

How the heck did you know that story? Bob Paeth told me that story years ago.. but didn't say who took the picture. But the basis is correct!

Well... I am a little offended by your post, frankly! Are you saying that I or we here on this forum need to treat you special or something because you believe in ....? Ah, what is it that you believe in again? I feel that this forum is about models first. I care not if you are brown, purple or bow down to a bic pen each morning. But to tell me what I can and cannot say or you will be offended is beyond the pale. If you have personal beliefs then fine but don't tell me what I can and cannot post! What brings us together is models. As long as you talk about models... who cares if you kneel to the golden calf or not.

It works! The car looks a little like the one on my web site!

Did you bring donuts? Member 3279 is suppose to bring donuts, or so I understood....

Agreed! He should have used the BIG black one!

Personally, I would lose the wheels in favor of some good steelies. Hot Rodders never (or rarely) used spokes because they were weaker than solid steel.

Old glue cannot be softened and removed without effecting all the styrene plastic in a bad way. However, you CAN seperate old parts by dousing the model in water, shake and freeze in the icebox. The expanding mosture will work into the cracks and pop weak joints apart. Other than that.... sanding and polishing is the only option for removing old glue blobs.... that I know of.

The reason for the bed cover was because Revell also sold that Ranchero with the option to put a motor in it. The bed cover concealed the motor... and I too have an extra if you need it. I turned my Ranchero into a station-wagon a bunch of years ago. A side note is that the Ranchero kit is incorrect because it was based on the 4 door station-wagon molds. As we all know... a 4-door car has shorter doors than a 2 door car. The real Ranchero was based on the 2-door Ranch Wagon. So, to be totally accurate, one would need to move the door lines back a bit along with moving the posts and lengthening the roof... A lot of work and something I have rarely seen.

Gloss orange may have been the color the factory actually used. However, after a few years exposure to heat, oil and fumes... the color would lose it's shine some. Personally, I never paint engines, transmissions or running gear glossy colors unless the model is to be SHOW ROOM STOCK! Most of my models represent lightly used or greater because the detail and realism is more interesting to me. Looking forward to seeing your Dodge.

Greg, the pic didn't show but I can click on it and open in another browser no prob. Looks good! I am out of free time at the moment so progress has stalled here too... but not to worry. As for the theme, I believe your original intention was to build something to help the builder express his or her political and religious views... or something like that. In order to keep it interesting, my suggestion was to open it to any subject matter. Rat Rods was just one suggestion... but not the only suggestion. Japanese cars, Hot Rods, Street Machines.... WHATEVER! No memo to be received and no change of subject. Okay?

So build something and quit taking about it!

Oooohhh, I like that rear view Dale!

What's the matter NICK... Cat got your tongue?

This is a great looking rod there Capt! I am really liking the direction you are going but have to step up and say something, but I could be wrong.... Doesn't a Magneto already have a built in coil? From what I understand... the Mag generates it's own current and has a built in coil which is why it was so popular for racing engines. Incidentally it only needs one wire running to it to short out the system so as to kill the engine upon shut down sort of like a lawn mower engine.

Actually, the best clear coat on the market is Tamiya. It polishes out nicely and I have not experienced any yellowing yet.