Jairus

Hey, those look really good Rob! Like the Galaxie best...

That coupe looks wonderfully traditional! Excellent start. The term "Tale of two Deuces" was coined by Tim Boyd way back in the stone age when magazines were printed in mostly black and white. I remember it really inspired me... and I built two rods as my verson of "Tale of two Deuces". Tim eventually printed it in Rod and Custom. Definately a highwatermark for me back then... but don't ask me the issue

I am feeling the styrene love here!!! Way to go! Keep it pithy, expressive, simple to explain and above all.... artistic! (my suggestions only and not rules, commandments, or laws... ) I am going to suggest no voting... because nobody is right and nobody is wrong. But the deadline is when ever we agree, which will keep this thread open ended. ('cause even Mark might have a change of heart.... ) Continue to post your build and updates here to keep this thread bumped up. Ciao!

Short of removing the red material and replacing it was clear.... no! I have used a light grey paint from time to time. The clear, unless it is lit from behind, generally is not white but light to med grey due to the dark unlighted bulb and reflector behind. So if the lense is small or molded to a chrome surround then use a glossy light grey.

Guys, my take on Paul is that he is Retired, able to spend 20 to 30 hours on the buildups per week and doesn't care what they sell for as long as one or two out of 5 hit a good total. All seem to require the same amount of work and there seems to be NO scratch building that I have seen thus far. (Seem to remember a camping trailer a while ago... but cannot remember if it was a resin or scratch.) He builds beautifully but it is a business/love for him. Not so much a hobby anymore. Bill... I would not quit your day job as I like what you do right now! (Incidentally, I have considered it too....)

Flex fuel? Looks like it needs a FLEX CRANK! 6 on one side and 2 on the other...? Wann'a explain Willis?

Paul has a strong following! Most of the bidders are the same every time he puts something up. The prices are all over the board and he does not make a killing on all his sales. But that said... his builds are always first rate... for curb side models. Not because they are curb-side, but because he does his research and gets them right each and every time. They are very nice!!!! However, If one of his models were entered at GSL... it might take a good strong box stock award but that is pretty much it. I am with Andy on this one... Bill, you could take him!!!! I applaud Paul for his success as it is not a lot of us who can make $ at their hobby... what ever that may be.

Nick, I figure everyone should build what they want. The "Challenge" portion is how they choose to demonstrate their political and religious beliefs. My suggestion of Street Rods was such that it is a very open and unrestricted venue for this since Street Rods have been built and displayed through many trends for over 80 years! However, you build what ever you want!

Ron Cash used to specialize in those duel cab conversions back .... sheesh TWENTY years ago! Though, you didn't say what year your truck is. 1955 was the first 3500 I believe.... Doubt that Ron is still making them tho... but someone might have taken the masters off his hands so I don't quite know the answer to your question. I went through my contacts, Hendrix, R&R, Perry's, Aardvark and Modelhaus' web site is down. Sorry dude. Frankly, for the cost of two kits... you could make your own more cheaply by cutting up two cabs and pasting the big half's together.

Boy, those Tamiya flat finish paints are REALLY flat too! No wonder the military rivet counters use gloves to handle the models. One greasy finger print really shows up like a cold sore on Christy Brinkley's pouty little lips.... (How's dat Harry?)

I mix it down about two parts Future to one part Windex Glass cleaner. Then using about 25psi... shoot about 4 or five misty coats allowing an hour dry time between. The Future and the Glass cleaner both contain Ammonia and that will lift decals "faster than white on rice" if put applied too heavy. So I build it up with light coats allowing them to shrink and tighten between, thus sealing the decal. Then about 4 more good shiny coats and you done. You get a drip.... which is a huge bummer, so just wet sand it out in a couple of days after letting it dry real good. Then apply more clear if needed or simply polish and wax that spot. Incidentally, this is the same process I use for Tamiya clear-coats with either a spray can or shooting through the airbrush. Tamiya clears will raise decals too if applied too heavily.

Looks good Virgil! Not sure which I like better... whatever you choose will turn out cool. I got mine mocked up last night too: The frame was something I built for a couple of MCM how to articles. Never made it into a project and I love those Olds Fiesta wheel covers! Still not sure what to use for an engine.... still searching the graveyard. Realized while shooting this pic, that I need a workshop to build this in.... and shoot in front of. Now where did I put that brick...

Yes that is the general rule. Best to use the same color paint as the flocking though and flat colors are best always. Back when I was a little kid in middle school, the craft teacher used a pump that sprayed the flocking in little bursts over the wet paint. Of course it was not on a model at the time but I never forgot the experience. Now a days I just paint about a one inch square and dump a pinch of flocking on the area and then shake the interior/part about while the flocking gets "stuck" in the wet paint like a Mastodon stuck in a tar pit. After a time, dump the non-stuck flocking back into the bottle and start on a new area.

Hey, nice work there so far Izzy! Thumbs up all the way, and keep it stock with the pace car decals as you originally planned. The difference between the steel wheels on the Pace car and the wire wheels in the kit have me wondering what you are going to do.... I seem remember AMT 1936 Fords having something like the steel wheel as an accessory wheel cover.... Not sure if it will work, but the current kit on my shelve doesn't seem to have them. Anybody else remember what I mean? I will check back from time to time and see your progress!

Greg, I would have to say that there should be no limitations. If it is a Rat then fine. If it is more of a Nostalgia or Retro.... then fine too. My only thought about using the Rat Rod theme is that it is loose and open to interpretation. Artistic expression in it's purest form.... with Left or Right leanings... however the builder chooses to express him or herself. James suggested a "Right leaning motor" (Pure genius and I wish I had thought of it) I think bumper stickers will be my expression... but I might come up with something else later. Andy's idea of a enviro-friendly Hybred is very cool too! (Good one Andy!) It's all about having fun and building models. Which is the reason we come here in the first place. Right? J

Excellent Chris! You deserve the accolades.

YUP, can't add anything to what Cal said!

Really? Dang....

I paint all my parts with an airbrush.... but prime with....... (wait for it) Tamiya or Plastikote rattle cans!!!!!! Sorry dude that is the truth.

No, best model rules and the Left sucks dirt!

Greg, I have no interest in Japanese cars.... and only limp interest in a 240Z.... so I will suggest a topic that seems more interesting since this subject has received only slight attention. How about something more "Artistic" like RAT RODS? Hmmm

Very cool Bob! I got the chance to hold the original and those pieces are a GOLD MINE of coolness and artistic expression! You are very lucky....

Jairus like! Can Jairus have?

Scratchbuilding is cool! Here is a basic hood latch mechanism that will hold the hood closed until the trigger is toggeled by a finger. There is nothing more embarrassing for a judge (just the guy you don't want to piss off) than to pick up a model car and have the hood or trunk or convertible roof fall off. So my earlier post showed how I choose to hinge a hood and trunk lid..... so today I am posting how I create a basic hood latch. The latch presented here is made with brass strip about .025 thick but can be thicker or thinner if need be. Point of fact is that nearly anything can be changed but he three areas you need are a hook to hold the hood pin/loop, a return spring and a point at which your finger or a tool can work the latch. A finger is the best tool because most of us including the judge has one. If you use a tool then the tool has to travel with the car and that presents a minor problem. So the simplest method is usually the best for me and I usually try to make anything moveable on my models activated by hands or fingers. The end of the latch protrudes below the front bumper and if painted flat black... will be almost invisible to the eye, yet easily workable by the human finger. A. through D. show the brass strip bent and drilled and filed to shape. D. and E. show the evergreen carriage which will be attached to the model. F. is a round head pin such as that you might find holding together a good dress shirt from the mens department. The heads normal flat head pins with a "clay" like material added to the end. The material can be shaped like shown and added to the hood undersurface and this give the latch something to grab onto. I will post more examples of other latches I have built later on including some good door latches. Ciao!

Harry, nothings permanent.... don't you have a dremel? Simply grind it off and try again... sheesh!