Jairus

Dupli-Color is an acrylic enamel. I assume that you are using spray cans. Therefore, one suggestion is to heat the can slightly with a pan of warm water prior to spraying. This along with a good 5 minutes of shaking will activate the glossy agents in the paint you are using. Drying can effect the gloss as well especially if the item painted is allowed to dry in a cool humid location. However once dry, the paint can be polished back to a glossy sheen. Even clear.

Mark, I like what you have done so far! Hope you are not offended by what I write in this post as this project is NOT for the faint hearted. Many have tried to replicate a 1938 Deluxe or a 1939 Standard and only a few have managed to pull it off. Bill Aitchison and Ron Martinolich are the only two who I feel have managed to do so successfully. The problem I see it is that the nose of a 1938 -39 Ford is very blunt and rounded. Not at all like the '39 Deluxe - 1940 nose! It is a unique shape not found anywhere in scale and because of this reason, makes it out of the realm of the average scratchbuilder. The following picture shows that the grill bars are flush with the rest of the sheet metal. The chrome strips are simple add-on's to differentiate between the previous years model. This is because the lower grill is just a carry over design. Only the hood side panels were changed slightly along with the hood "bull nose". I attempted this on an unfinished woody street rod. The grill here was modified by filling and rounding until a smooth nose approximated the shape. Then the grill openings were cut out, backed and grill bars cut individually and glued in. After the bars were dry the outer surface was block sanded. Some of the bars are not as straight as I would have liked despite using separators between... but it's the best I could do. Another option is to use a '39 chevrolet grill like I did before that on this Phaeton. The openings were again cut after shaping but the '39 grille was placed into the opening. Ron Martinolich did that when he built his really neat '39 Standard coupe back in the late 80's and so I used his idea. Unfortunately, I feel that this option ends up being too narrow. At least to my eyes, which is the reason for attempting option #2 above. Another thing you need to remember to do is to re-sculpt the back side of the front fenders. The 1938 Deluxe and the 1939 Standard both had flares where the fender connected to the running boards. Even though the headlight lenses changed slightly between the years.... the lenses from the Revell 1937 Ford will work in a pinch. Model Car Garage makes some beautiful red resin '39 taillights. Leave off the wind wings and the wipers would be up on the roof over the windshield on the coupes for '39. Good Luck with this one!

I hand paint it with a nib and a ruler... but that is just me.

Izzy, as winter approaches... I am beginning to wonder the same thing! But turning up the thermostat vs. boarding up the windows.... I will go with cold all the time!

Harry, that is a very interesting drawing.... where did it come from please?

Oh come on... you live on an island! How bad can it get? At least the lawn gets watered.....

... but not too much rest! (You are married after all.....)

:lol:

My daughter's iPod quit working the other day. All her millions of songs are on it..... of course. Me? I simply continue to spin my vinyl records on a 40 year old turntable with absolutely no problems and the sound is BEAUTIFUL. Technology is great but with it comes great problems and responsibilities....

Those who know, were given the cold shoulder on this forum. Those who don't know... will just have to keep guessing.

Excellent V! I would LOVE to see what you would do with a "Rommel's Rod". Not enought to pay for one on eBay... but if someone here has a build up that they would donate for the cause... ?

I too love this kit. Box art is okay... back ground is too simple. The rear axles are cast weird tho....

How about this? It's the same car as the video and there are 4 more days on the auction. Why go half way? Why not spend the bucks and build the car the right way the first time. The price is not that overboard if you really want it.... about equal to 3 CD's... half tank of gas... good dinner for two at Appleby's...

Quite a few of them featured working steering... but not actually with a steering box. (Unless my addled brain missed it....) At any rate, most were simply a cross rod with a steering shaft bent into an "L" shape that connected and moved the cross rod back and forth. The steering wheel only had to move a 1/4 turn left and to the right to move the wheels left and right. It is very toy like and not realistic at all. A lot of the die casters are still doing the same thing today and I believe Trumpeter did it with the Pontiac kit in plastic. Most steering wheels in 1:1 cars today take 4 or 5 rotations to move the wheels from lock to lock. This is with power steering. Manual steering cars have higher ratios. I believe the original question was about making a realistic steering system. If you were modeling a Corvair.... might not be a big problem (long as you didn't cut open the trunk lid). But on a modern front engine model the steering system is very visible and the parts, really itty-bitty when converted to 1:25th! Might be easier to model on a Mack Truck....

Yes I too remember the first time I saw a new '82 Firebird/Camaro. I was in College and driving a used '69 Mustang. I just loved the sleek taute lines on those cars. Hard to see them age over the years... Your build is very nicely done. Clean and represents one of the best examples of this era I can remember. Well done!

How'z about a convertible.... with the motor and gears in the trunk. Batteries too for that matter. Then a flex shaft running forward to run all four windows up at the same time? Of course the doors don't open... but on a convertible you really don't need it. Same motor could run the top up and down as well. One click on the remote and everything buttons up with no need to touch the model. Frankly, opening doors would only complicate the process and weaken the structure. Now that would be visually exciting and much better than working steering!

Orange metallic! Ohhhh yeeeaaahhh... thumps up!

GIT OUT! But what about our idea of radio control with a cheap 20 buck Radio shack transmitter?

Yeaaaahhhhh, that question is not reeeeeallly model related and so I will not answer. (She deserves her privacy and anonymity) But I will post a nice picture of this: This is a slot car built using an AMT Gurney Indy car static kit as a basis. More pictures can be found on my Fotki account! Finished it just last week.

This one? Her name is "Alice" and this picture was taken moments ago. She lives in my backyard and has a lot of squirrel friends, one cat (Max) and has outlived more than a few other rabbits (Who die of unknown deaths). I think she is about 8 years old now.

You should read it again Nick… “Racist†came from your buddy calling me a racist in post #17: Was not sure where to cut it because there are no periods... or punctuation... or spell check... or logic for that matter... Oh look a squirrel in the backyard!

Wow, I am wrong and man enough to admit it! AMT did make a 1969 Lincoln Continental.... That's a lot of scratch for a plastic model kit, but then... if you are goth...

1969 Lincoln Continental

What’s the big deal? It’s a stock 1969 black Lincoln Continental with airbags and a skull hood ornament. If there was a kit available, which there is not, it would be a simple build as the video shows little if any details. I learned that much by spending 10 minutes on Google. The cover song however: “Tainted Love" was composed by Ed Cobb, formerly of The Four Preps, which was originally recorded by Gloria Jones. It attained worldwide fame after being covered by Soft Cell in 1981, and has since been covered by numerous other groups and artists including the cover song by MM. His biggest hit to date I should mention. The innuendo in the video plus the bare breast flash and other imagery are disturbing to say the least and do NOT belong on Model Cars Magazine Forums. However, I no longer represent the magazine, this forum or Golden Bell Press. The management saw to that very well long before you came along. (Guess you didn’t get the memo) So now I simply am just another modeler with an opinion and a belief that imagery such as what you posted and idiots like Marilyn Manson, Goth and other black arts are a cancer in this culture.

This was something that used to only happen to old vintage kits. It is due to the chemical compound that makes up the Vinyl tires and happens to more than the clear. Sometimes you can find melty body and other parts too... depending on what the tire touches and how long it sits. For example the following wheel and tire combo was most-likely put together during the mid 60's: The styrene is still soft and can be imprinted. Most modern kits have the tires bagged separately which eliminated this problem for all time.... but the statement "vinyl-tire damages" means the kit has sat for a long time and the tires have left an imprint in something. Most likely the body... The fix: Cutting away all styrene that is soft and filling with a good epoxy putty.