Jairus

Very nice build and GREAT photography too! Charles should do a thread on taking pictures.....

'cause he's a busy Lawyer chasing Ambulances I figure....

I only shoot Testors model master clear over my Scale Motor Sports decals and have never had a problem! I admit that they are very thin and rip easy. But, getting the rip matched up is simple matter and they dry without the crack showing. I guess it's hard to see here... but the entire interior floor and firewall plus the door panels are completely covered with SMS carbon fiber decals. Took weeks to get it all done and many sheets of decal paper!

Nice! Looks like Paul used the provided vacuum formed window glass.... Funny, but I always figured a Country Squire had wood on the side and the Country Sedan had painted sides...?!? I hope you put wood on yours Bill.

That works too. Problem is... the black wash will lift the enamel paint, therefore that is why I like to use the Alclad "Lacquers" first. The wash has little effect on lacquer paint unless you scrub the brush real hard. Another technique after the wash has dried.... is to lightly dry brush silver over the tops of all the details. This works on most metallic objects as raised edges tend to experience wear and remain shiny metallic.

First, strip the chrome with oven cleaner. (Don't even think of breathing the fumes!!!) Second, drill holes for the fuel line and vacuum line(s). Third, mix some Alclad chrome with Alclad gold about 50/50 and spray that on the carb(s). Then, mix up some thinner with black.... about 30% flat black with 70% Model Master paint thinner and wash it into the cracks. Lastly, use silver to detail any bolt heads, linkage or fuel lines. If there is a cold start coil on the passenger side... that should be semi gloss black. If you want to do a lift off aircleaner or photo etch linkage.... that is a whole 'nother chapter!

I think it is either Steven Tyler and "Aerosmith" or Mick Jagger and the "Stones!" But I could be wrong.....

I dare someone to use MY ugly puss!

There is only one line running from the fuel tank to the pump. Pump is located at the back of the intake manifold next to the crankcase vent. This is the same on all flathead V8's from 1932 to 1953. The pump is powered by a short push-rod actuated by a lobe at the very end of the camshaft.

Two hands! (Even if scarred, bandaged and bleeding)

These are prob too new. Think I picked up the brochure sometime about 1974 or '75.

Looking at all the parts demonstrates that the number of parts and basic structures are similar. The Paasche brush is a little fatter and easier to hold. The Badger, a more slim design is no easier to assemble than the Paasche. In-fact they are both quite difficult to put back together correctly with the chance to get more than a few pieces in backwards. One of the problems I noticed with this Paasche is if this finger trigger is put in backwards, the needle won’t slide smoothly and when the button pushed, there is an inordinate amount of friction resulting in the air not getting shut off quickly enough. Simple fix is to… …slide the needle in... and see if there is friction. If so, rotate the trigger around the other way. I think the problem is the slot milled into the shaft is fractionally to one side. This leaves one leg of the finger button shaft thicker. This could be a problem with this brush only but.... if not, a mark should be filed on the finger trigger so that the owner would know which way to insert the piece each time. The other thing to watch for is the air to paint seal. The little brass taper fit tip accomplishes this feat on the Paasche very cleverly. A taper fit means that it should seal the two until actual mixing of the paint occurs beyond the tip. What you do NOT want is air flowing back into the paint area. This causes spitting and poor suction for drawing of the paint. A good check for this is before painting and after re-assembly, put some water or paint thinner into the drawtube and pull the trigger. The fluid should flow smoothly through the system with NO bubbles coming back. If you see bubbles, take off the retainer ring and rotate the brass tip. The retainer then is screwed back down tight (see why the Pliers are necessary?) and the test applied again. The Badger is sealed with a replaceable Teflon ring, which washes down the drain way too easily. However, if I start seeing air bubbles in my test… I can replace it quickly. They are less than a buck each, but unfortunately only one dealer now carries it in my City so I HAVE to keep a stock of them handy. Lastly, I put some India ink in both brushes for a quick test at 30psi and they both work beautifully. I was not real experienced with the Paasche so it felt a little uncomfortable but performed very well regardless. The Badger has a fine tip and the Paasche a medium tip. Both work well enough for shooting slot car bodies and applying fades and other tricks. Both are recommended but I have to give the nod to the Badger because of the cup thing… oh, and the handle too!

Incidentally... I did a comparison of a Badger 150 and a Paasche...... The humble airbrush, if you learn how to use it, can be a very easy tool to use. Biggest troubles are the supporting infrastructure needed to make one work, for example: air compressor, hoses, water trap, pair of Pliers, cleaning equipment and replacement parts! I did this comparison for the benefit of a friend because he was having troubles getting his Paasche working correctly. He sent it to me and I played with it. So the following is not so much a comparison… as maybe tips on making the Paasche work correctly. The information may be of interest to anyone who paints or someone who is considering buying an airbrush. So, please feel free to post any suggestions or questions. To start with, we have three airbrushes laid out. A is the Paasche VL double action, made in U.S.A! B is a Tamiya HG double action gravity feed, (An Iwata clone) made in Japan! C is a Badger 150 double action, made in U.S.A! :music: The first thing I noticed is that the Tamiya and Badger both use metal handles and the Paasche sports a classy red plastic handle. The handle really makes no difference on how the brush works other than balance…. However, when working with lacquer paint one must be careful not to allow any contact with the lacquer thinner. (I don’t know if I did it or Pablo did it but there is now a fingerprint engraved on the handle because of this….) The Tamiya airbrush is a nice piece. A little hard to clean but the tip is really fine and perfect for tiny work or airbrushed illustration. Not that useful for painting slot car bodies as the top hopper doesn’t hold a lot of paint. My biggest fault with this brush is the needle is exposed (hard to see) and I will bend it or poke my finger with it if the protective cap is left off for any length of time. The gravity feed hopper is great because you can turn down the air pressure way down to 15psi! The Paasche and Badger brushes are both suction feed with a cup, although a bottle will fit either as well. Only problem I can see here is that the Paasche cup has a rolled lip making it hard to clean. The Badger cup is more open allowing my finger and a paper towel inside to wipe it out. This is not possible to accomplish with the Paasche cup. Incidentally, the Badger cup will fit the Paasche!

I have three. Binks Wren with a fine tip. Badger 150 with a fine tip. (Primary use) Tamiya HG-SF gravity feed w/med tip.

I draw pictures.

That's some nice work John. Me-thinks that someday you may be pressed into service to build a couple of Box-Art models for real!

AMT did one of those ZR-1 kits too in 1989. It was a giveaway at the '89 GSL and the box was printed with "King of the Hill". From what I understand... AMT only printed 27,000 boxes with that statement on it. Not rare by most standards but more rare than the Silverado I expect.

Enough speculation.... I traded it in on a used Yamaha 100 dirt bike about a year later that could climb a tree for heavens sake! First however, I drove the Honda Spree for 85 miles... which told me very quickly that that puppy couldn't get out of it's own way and I was going to end up in the ICU if I didn't find a new owner fast! (Think I had to fill the tank on the Spree only once.....?) The car that won? Ended up on the cover of SAE.... anybody know what it was?

Yup, James has got it right!

Portland Classic? Isn't that the old Portland Roadster Show? Think I took Best of Show there wayyyyy back in the 80's if memory serves.

I cannot understand how mistakes made by stupid misguided persons can have any value! The "coupe" box is just plain stupid as was the AMT "Hemi Under Glass" snafu. To have any value an item must be of such low production and ... have been caught and recalled by the manufacturer to be considered worthwhile collecting. Beatles "Yesterday and Today" Butcher cover comes to mind.... That one was recalled by the producer and three different presses used three different solutions which yielded interesting history, value and mystique. A mint copy of that album could payoff my house at todays market! AMT personnel simply went home and went to bed never caring if their mass produced kits were correct or not..... ... in my humble opinion. They never offered an apology either if memory serves.

Very nice and not easy to accomplish! I think you would really improve the look with some vacuum formed head light covers...

I never would have thought of that... Cool look though!

There is not much on the Internet other than the poster. IMDB dosn't even have a photogallery for the movie. This is all I could find. Blow up of the car from the movie poster: and the movie poster: The model was build by Jason Stachura and published on the "Finishing Touch" page of the old SAE March 2001. This was pulled from a movie review page.... note the hole in the windshield and hood hinge details.... front seat replaced with a lawn chair. Good luck!