Jairus

Ismael, Sorry I didn't see this question before now. I guess I have been busy with other stuff.... Soldering brass tubing is easier than rod but only by a little. Brass rod is stronger than tube and easier to bend. Brass tube can be bent but you need to insert something inside the tube to support it inside like a piece of solder or plastic rod. Bend the tube around a piece of rod or tubing the same diameter as the bend you want and go slow. If you are going to make roll cages then I would suggest you pick up some 1/16 K&S brass rod and start with that. All soldering is easy if you know the basic secrets. 1 Clean the joint. 2 Use acid flux from the electronics store. 3 Heat the parts well with a good iron and use very little solder. 4 Scrub the soldered joint with a toothbrush, Ajax and HOT water to clean off the acid flux. You will be surprised how easy it really is! Here is a couple of solder joints I have recently accomplished on a couple of slot cars. Good flow is important and moving the iron around will help the puddle and flow of the solder.

Since you said you understand the fuel pump we will talk only about the upper portion of the fuel lines on a 60's blown engine. The basics are the same for all engines, street, drag or whatever. But the hardware can vary widely due to equipment used. Fuel is pumped one direction into the engine. Sometimes there are two lines (A). In those cases, one is usually the return line. Fuel is under pressure at all times but that varies when the engine rpm's change. In order to maintain that pressure a valve is installed that maintains a consistent volume and bleeds off the excess which returns to the pump or to the tank. This is also why there may be two lines between the tank and the pump. To meter the fuel/air for throttle control, a fuel block with a metering valve ( is attached to the side of the "Hat/scoop" and controlled by adjustable control rods (E). As the butterflies open and close with the throttle the fuel valve is opened and closed like a water faucet. The metered fuel is distributed to the injectors via rubber or aircraft hoses. Most 60's dragsters used rubber hoses or steel lines. The aircraft hoses that are so commonplace now, were very expensive having been developed for the Apollo space program had not yet been adopted by the sport until the later 70's. There are two hoses © generally, because injectors can be located above and below the blower. If only one set of injectors are used under the scoop then there would be only one hose between the metering block and the distribution block. At the back of the blower is located one or two distribution blocks (D) where the fuel is broken up into individual lines for each injector. Some systems use only 4 and some as many as 16 injectors! Some systems have these pieces located in different positions but the basics are the same. The illustration shown is the pretty much the basic AMT or Revell blown funny car or dragster Hemi engine.

A gallon can won't fit on my crowded drawing board....

Ryan.... $12.60.

Epoxy and a little fiberglass cloth.

I realize that this is a 1969 Cougar... but it is way cool reference material anyway. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...=ADME:B:EF:US:2 J

Naw, it's all PhotoShopped! With todays technology, you can't always believe what you see... :roll:

Hey Doug, want to share a ride to the... 2007 PACIFIC NORTHWEST NNL NEXT WEEKEND!!!! :D :D :D :D

Wayne has a huge shelf full of "Local Best of Show" awards for his beautifully detailed straightline models. One of the Best in the Northwest!

Pizza and Hurricane Ice!

Spray or brush your flat color onto the seats. If the color is light then a little oil pastel chopped up into a fine dust and dry brushed into the recesses helps create depth. Then spray dull-coat over the whole thing. The next step is a little weird but easy. Rub your nose. Don't mine it... :roll: but rub a little skin oil on your finger and then work it into the seats raised portions. This will give a convincing sheen to the shape and look remarkably like leather. This technique works best with dark colors and black. 8)

Ken, this is not a fair comparison, nor is it the proof I asked for. A car is a complicated running machine and probably the biggest investment most of us will purchase. A resin model car part or body on the other hand is a toy! These are toys! TOYS! If you don’t like the product, then don’t buy it! Darin has already outlined two nicely written proposals and if you fail to read them and act on them, then you and all others still screaming about the inadequacies in life will NEVER be happy or satisfied!

NICE! You could go very far indeed if you added an airbrush to your "pencil box"...

Cool! Looks like a rocket.... Maybe you could show the guys how you strengthened the front end and hood?

Cool! Might be a fun group project... to build box art models. Nice job.

Yes Harry, it is very entertaining. But without proof as Darin mentions it ends up being nothing but biased accusations and so much opinion. If anyone has anything to say further I believe Mr. Bastedo has thrown down the glove to those who would attack Mr. Thune's casting skill by posting pictures to back up your statements. You say that he copies or back pours others works... lets see definitive tool marks on bodies that are copied! You say that he sends out bad and warped castings... lets see something received in the last couple of months that fits that description! The Comet body on eBay was TWO YEARS OLD! You say that Mr. Theune has told you to F___ off… Lets see the email! This case would have been thrown out of any court in the land with the lack of evidence we have seen. Everyone up till now has had the chance to post their opinion but so far the only individual to post anything approaching PROOF has been Marc's beautiful build-ups using Reliable resins bodies! With that and with the positive eBay feedback of Reliable Resin, I really do not see this thread doing anything positive with further unsupported attacks.

Looks like it could almost drip oil! Very nice... 8)

Sorry Dwayne, but your last message to me didn't make much sense. What was it you’re trying to say? Oh, and forum rules require you to put your name, first and last, in the signature text box found in the Profile section of this forum. As for poor items being sold from disreputable companies... most of the time the market takes care of them and forums like this only speed up the information dispersion. Ciao!

Kruzer, please take a look at the forum rules in the first posting and put your name in the signature text box found in the Profile Section of this forum. thanks you and welcome to MCM forums!

Your wish is my command! Note: this is uncompleted and changes are pending..... 8)

Dwayne, Nobody says you have to buy it!

That's got a great early 60's look! Very nice build. Thanks for posting.... 8)

Of course we all want the best possible material to work with when we set out to build a project. However, if the subject of my next project is not available in plastic ANYWHERE but from one resin caster then I would still consider buying it regardless of the rhetoric expounded on some forum or one persons opinion. My only concern would have been NOT receiving the item after payment. As long as I have something to work with then I rarely complain about the quality because I am A MODELER! I can fill, sand, paint and modify most anything into what I want it to look like. Most of us have these skills and we really have no room to complain when many of us start with much worse vintage eBay build-ups! Right? My opinion is that we as modelers have got to SUCK IT UP, get out the putty and get to work! Alan: you need to dust your feet of Reliable Resin and never order from him again! Sounds like you purchased more than once from him hoping for a different outcome. You know what they say about twice fooled? Just let it go! Don: sounds like the people have spoken and maybe a step up in quality control of products being sent out might be in order. It can only help the bottom line eventually. Marc: your continual defense of Reliable Resin is honorable in view of the onslaught of public opinion. You build beautifully and write even better! The built-ups posted here are something the other members of MCM forums really need and want to see and I hope you continue to post... including some how-to articles on prepping and painting of Resin! (please) However, you sadly come off like a shill of Reliable Resin in this thread because of all the defending in the face of overwhelming contrary opinion. And like they say, first impressions.... I wonder if the guys here will trust all that you say in the future, but only time will tell. Ariel: good to see you again! Gregg: you were no help! To everybody else, Rule #2 says no demeaning comments will be allowed on this forum and a lot of the posts here were right on the line if not outright stepping over in my opinion. Now that we all have this out of our systems... let's get back to building and quit the bitching. Last time I remember a fervor like this was when AMT released the 1955 Chevrolet Pickup and everyone got on the bandwagon and complained about the window line! The answer then is the answer now. We are modelers! Get out the #11 blades and putty and get to work!

These cars are not like this out of the box guys. They are painted, modified and cleaned up way better than out of the box!

Nope, wasn't me. I try to do SketchPad articles about current subjects. Yeah, I know it is now a current subject but... kind of boring don't ya think? Ok, how about going the land yacht angle with a teak wood deck, railing, flying bridge and rope tiedowns. How about fender bumpers? :-) Well, then a second opinion would be Mrs. Hathaway's car from the Beverly Hillbillies. Pretty yellow convertible if I remember right. J