Jairus

Welcome Keith! I think your our first "Keith" by the way....

Beautiful Simon! My fav exotic sports car of all time and with beautiful paint to boot!

Gregg, read the forum rules again. If you register using a "Handle" then you need your full name in the signature block. But if you register with your full name, nothing need appear in the sig text box. We simply want to know who everyone is.... except, of course..... "The Underground Modeler"! :roll:

Heaven help us..... :roll:

Let the pigeons loose, Doug should need no introductions, just salutations!

Welcome Thomas! Thank you for reading the forum rules...

Not being a nitpicker here but I gotta say that if there is no water….. then it’s a terrarium... :roll:

Looks really good, but I have to wonder why they didn't put teeth into that belt? (I KNOW why AMT didn't....)

unky, I applaud you on your "dare to be different" building style. I think you'll fit in here just fine.... Could I please get you to post your name? Forum rules require that if you register using a "Handle" (unky) that you must place your name in the signature text box found in your Profile. Thank you!

I have not deleted anything in a long time! :evil:

Looks very good!

:shock: It's beautiful Tim, really nice work!

Very cool Lyle! Makes me want to get "Capt'n American" out of the garage....

Quite a few of the newer released AMT kits have the hood open "hinges"! (Not re-releases for obvious reasons) Both the Edsel and '60 Ford do, as you suggest. Unfortunately neither of those looks anything like current hood hinges so using them on a ’69 Camaro makes no sense. However… the 1962 Catalina, also from AMT, has perfect hood “hinges†for use on nearly any car through the 80’s. Trumpeter also jumped on this band wagon of casting open “hingesâ€, which they put in both the Pontiac kits should the photoetch working hinges prove too difficult…. :roll:

Bob, you would be better off scratch building your own by starting out with the Revell '37 and adding a delivery box from the '39 Chev. Most of the curves are pretty close.... That was going to be my course of action when I gave up on the Resin. Unfortunately I had project disease back then and found another NEW project pretty quick! :roll:

Brittney

Nice clean build there Mike... what was your last name? Please refer to the forum rules and post your name in the signature box found in your profile section. Other than that you build very nice and have a good sense of color. I suggest you might take better pictures with more light and a steadier hand. Try a tripod or... set your camera on closeup mode. Either way, sharper pictures will better show off your very clean building style. Welcome to MCM Forums.

Naw, what's hard is to remember is NOT to breath in when the flux vaporizes....

A BEAUTIFUL build of a classic show car. Very nice. Ah... any chance you could post your name in the signature box PLEEEZZZZEEEE?

What did you use for the firewall there Hans? Looks one piece and CHROME! Very nice build, VERY NICE!

It's funny how ugly some 50's customs actually were! Regardless, Hans your replica seems spot on and I cannot wait to see the next installment.

Nice rake! Looks great there. I like the teal and white but that has been done to death. Try something different besides two-tone just to be diff. I have to ask tho... why the Buick motor instead of a Chev?

Too tall or too short? You must mean too short in LENGTH! Right?

Geewiz Bill, it seems a lot longer than a year..... :roll: ( )

Ismael, What your doing looks great! Really! However, I think this will help you... with three things that will give you cleaner and stronger joints: #1 Buy and use Acid solder flux. Use it sparingly and clean up with hot water and Comet or Ajax cleanser and an old toothbrush #2 Buy and use only Silver Solder. The addition of silver makes it stronger but requires a slight bit more heat. The iron your using will be perfect! The joints will be way stronger allowing you to use a lot less solder making the joints more realistic. #3 Clean the area to be soldered with steel wool or 400 grit sand paper. Here are a couple of pictures of my recent soldering for an example. (please excuse the fact that they are of a slot car chassis)