Cato

Upper hose... And in place: Not forgotten is the lower hose, though seen much less often. BTW, I thrashed out a way I'd never seen before to make slightly better hose clamps-not as good as the PE pro guys do but adequate for hackers like me. Easy; strip of lead foil (with one shiny ally side), maybe 1.5 mm wide. Take the edge of a file (3 corner here) and press it into the foil along its length on a surface like your cutting mat. Presto, little 'hashmarks' that are slots in the 1:1. Curl around correct sized hose and CA the 'crotch'. Leave a small tab. Then a common pin, 00-90 nut, a 3mm or so length of 1/16" ally tube you're now very good at cutting and CA the shebang to the round clamp. To wit:

Fasten your seatbelts... I'm going to break this into 3 posts of 5 pictures each. As always with Pocher: A. Take nothing for grranted. B. One step forward after 5 steps back. To wit: Many steps ago I had mounted the grille / radiator unit and found it to be within tolerance of dead vertical. But that was with the engine out. Now that the engine is a permanent resident, the unit had a forward tip at the top. Bad words ensued. After much diagnosis, the culprit was found to be the fan and its shaft. I removed the fan and sanded its face. Was a bit better so going in the right direction: Further searching found the shaft protruded pushing the rad so that had to be ground in place - whirling Dremel in a fully finished area is a sweaty exercise. Again thanking the Gods that I made the grille shell plug-in-able from the top, I still had lean at the top. Culprit this time; the right angle corner of the steel shell (on the pass side) had a 'crimp' in it, raising it a mm. See shaded area. Dremel grinding wheel again but thankfully off the car. Finally got perfection on both sides vertical and equidistant to the corners of the cowl-flush and square. And this without the adjustable brace which will follow: Next order of business-the upper rad hose. I originally intended to stick a length of hose in place with two bands of BMF and move on. Sadly-I came across much better reference and as always I start sweating how I might 'fake' it a bit better than basic. Well here's a bunch more hours figuring it. I'll glady share what and how done if any of you not snoring yet. But then must kill you...

I'll bet your 9 year old niece would do it in a half hour for you.

3M Spray contact adhesive, place them then regular grout-close to real!

Yeah, he's really getting the hang of this stuff eh?????

Harry, maybe nose around the doll house suppliers. Some of their stuff is 1/12th. Or the railroad diorama suppliers.

Getting REALLY excited now....... Pocher must have had Machiavelli engineer their kits. Their instructions only show you where things are supposed to go, and ignore that you must pre-fit them dozens of times to get them right. And none of them fit right when assembled without pre-fit. I have figured a way to make the cowl unit easily removable for mock-up purposes. It will need to move forward or rearward a few mm's to get the coachwork perfect anyway-another mountain to climb. Be happy to share with any builders who like to see the detailed mods needed-it's not really hard. Just tedious on a fully finished cowl... But here it is in place with the grille out front. The three rods are also in place and play nice together. The upper one will be trimmed a bit and screwed into the waiting clevis on the cowl lip. This one gives adjustment for the vertical plane of the grille-but it's near perfect now so I'm lucky. Below that is the thinner shutter control rod and below that is the starting carburetor control rod. It only needs trimming. The last two will be painted black and I'm debating black for the upper brace or possibly chrome. From the top it's all arrow-straight and I'm both relieved and ecstatic:

Yes Harry that's my belief as well. Lets me get away with the wacky stuff I'm doin' to this one...

Excellent work on the teenie stuff.

^^^ Very cool Bob.

Most impressive and thorough explanation Skip-thanks. So I've inadvertently modeled the full manual system. Rolls went to the full thermostatic system shortly after 1932. Just like with the gas tank (22 gallon vs 28 gallon) and the carburetors (2 different designs, prior to and after 1931), Pocher has blurred the changes and modeled an amalgam of Rolls parts in the same car. The enduring mystery of the swept front fenders continues. No evidence exists (to my knowledge) of a car with them on a Sedanca (Continental). Possibly the boat-tailed roadster IIRC. If Pocher modeled them from a real car, it does not now exist or any record of it. Yes these were all done to customer's wishes by coachbuilders so maybe one owner desired them in all P II production. Again, almost nothing you do is 'wrong' on a Pocher classic. It's made me more comfortable with the license I took on details and finishes. I'm going for art as much as a faithful replica.

Sure but they replicated a RHD car; somebody shoulda told Senior Radiator Die Maker....

Sheesh! You can't cut around those tiny things. I'd pass or live with it. OR meebe, fill the seam with Bondo and scribe out the continuing brick joints.....

More hours down the rabbit hole... I won't bore you with the minutia of the job, but essentially, it is time to place the grille shell (containing the rad) in relation to the chassis and firewall. To do that accurately with much trial fitting, I decided to make the job easier by doing more work (??). As Pocher gives it to you, you must screw the grille into its crossmember from below. That means inverting the whole shebang numerous times and back. So I decided to make 2 'bolts' using 2mm rod, washers and nuts epoxied together, then epoxied to the steel shell. Now it plugs in from the top: / Since I'm adding the shutter control rod which runs from the dash, through the firewall and to the control linkage on the rad, I needed to place it accurately. More research revealed that good old Pocher molded that representation on the wrong side of the rad! Here (actually pic #41-we're over 300 now) was the previously finished rad when I was blissfully unaware of the bogus part: Presto! hours later, all ground off and a similar mounting flange created from .005 sheet and rivets: Here, my simplified version of the real rods and levers and flange operated by the rod from the firewall: The new assembly. Pretty pics later: http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/Aframe/314Medium_zps268e5f4a.jpg

">http://s679.photobucket.com/user/Aframe/media/Album%201/IMG_0064Medium_zps2d1c9b9c.jpg.html'> Now you show me yours...

Could you cut (maybe hot knife) parallel to the seam, along the joints of the stones? Then fit those halves together?? I did something similar for my GT's case, only in paper. I copied a redbrick pattern onto paper, then photocopied it several times. Then joined along the intersecting joints. It's not 3 dimensional like your stones but is undetectable and nice looking with the car on top in the case. A snap would help. Sorry if I'm wasting your time...

Sorry to horn in-I don't know what your base looks like. Although not 'cobblestones', and a different look (think gravel) maybe kitty litter, white glue on a masonite base gives you an alternative?? Scale would be OK...

Beautiful man...

Seriously, I must object; Gerald Wingrove's cars are museum quality. Mine are fine for maybe the dining room server or the den mantle. Which is all I'm hoping for. Besides museums don't allow leaky, rusty old crocks. Having said that, all of your praise is most appreciated and the support and encouragement feels really good. Thanks guys...

Skip, Rich, Bob and Michael-thanks for your support. Mad Mike; how's my Cobra doin'??

Joe the butcher taught me to drive at age 12 in this car and the dash was magic to me. The deep-dish wheel made me feel like controlling a space ship. Great memory...

Mine.

Dunno how to handle that; I''m famous for making people severely DEpressed.