Cato

After 112 hours... The complete firewall. Three control rods are rod stubs which will connect to the engine and radiator. They will get their complete rods when the firewall is finally placed for the coachwork. As will the coiled water temp sender, redone from my first attempt. Due to Pocher's placement of the ignition box and wire run, there is some variance from 1:1. Had I known earlier when I did the improved wire run, I would have gone just that bit further to get it right. Did the best I could-just got it 'representative':

You will see just how correct you are when I post in my RR thread later today....... And yes, the brass I used from the kit, I had to anneal every time. But the K&S (round) brass rod I've used did not provide much resistance and didn't work-harden. I was just surprised the rectangular you used did not deform cold.

You're just hateful Harry-hateful...

Beautiful Harry. But you really got square brass rod to bend 90 degrees without fracture?? Did you anneal?

Man of few words but I get the idea-and thank you!

Well thanks for reminding me Doug, but the stick in the eye wasn't necessary. I didn't associate my thread on Elmers Clear with the OP's question right away. So redundant information is painful to repeat and verboten with the thread police here?

Hmmm, I can just picture a set of artillery wheels finished like that on a 1/8 scale---say--29 Rolls Phantom I converted to a military utility vehicle. Made by a company that starts with a 'P'. HINT, HINT, hint...

They look great Harry and thinking 'out of box' on the stain is great. But how does the craft acrylic adhere to the bare styrene without a spritz of primer?

I don't think the OP would mind learning your technique. It may benefit many of us.

I have too. I figured it was right-side-up at the store for at least a year and thought any sediment should be moved off the bottom. Good ol gravity. On a separate note, I had a (new) can of Duplicolor spit out its small white nozzle. This while coating my carefully prepped Rolls fender. Thankfully I always start off the subject and move the spray over. Shot clean off and hit the overspray curtain (drop cloth) I use. No spatter on the part. The counter guy at the parts store exchanged it with no problem.

Karsten, I think you German guys are lightyears ahead of the 3D guys here in the States. That looks like a disassembled 1:1-fantastic. Tell me, does the finished surface come out that smooth or must you work it to get the surfaces shown?

Any members experienced with tattoos or their application know if this can be used on styrene? I'm thinking of detail colors like rust or heat stains, not full paint jobs. A quick search taught me that they thin with water, alcohol or mineral spirits-much like our acrylics. Ever try this material??

The Pocher sticker is a flat mylar piece of BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH. Marvin makes a PE piece that's just like you show. I moved it because I want that upper space for the firewall shutter control links, the starting carb control rod, the water temp sender and a custom (more like 1:1) radiator brace. Koo has you drill a hole 8mm down from top for the brace but 1:1 was attached to the leading edge. And a different type of mount-I'm using a clevis.

It's there Skip. Only I took artistic license and put it above the steering column, below the red ignition box. It's a little 'aged' too like the others...

Half-way there... "> "> "> ">

Yes it will. You're trapping moisture under paint. Let it gas-out a couple of days and sand with 1200 to 3600 and reshoot on dryer days.

We will continue to use our Stylus' until our cold dead fingers cannot turn them on. Brushes for them are cheap and that's all I anticipate needing. Yes it was sweaty but I could not have done the wire shields without it. Doing the oil and fuel lines right now-when the twitching stops. Thanks Tim and stay on board; lots to go yet.

I have very close to that into my Pocher Rolls with the MMC aftermarket parts I have (and still need more) ordered. That's not counting a jillion tools and finishing materials.

A (hopefully) useful tip... With much detail to be added to the firewall, it became necessary to paint and final polish the cowl. If I detailed first, it would be impossible to mask. So the need arose to protect all that paint work on the cowl. After 3 coats clear, I polished to 8000 grit, and since this is automotive lacquer, I used auto compound to get the glass-like finish I wanted. Then applied auto wax-Mothers Carnuba in this case. Reason is I want to be certain that protective tape removes safely and easily. Next, low-tack Frog tape on the painted surfaces. Now the big secret is medical tape-in this case 3m Transpore- on top of the Frog. This tape has a nice low-tack also but a textured, protective surface. Now I can handle the part with no worries as on the bench, I always seem to get accidental scuffs and scratches no matter how careful. I have to child-proof the parts from me!

I'll keep going until I kick my Photobucket!

Small but time-consuming progress... The firewall and cowl assembly shaping up. Essentially, I removed all the molded-on wire shielding and scratched new using 1:1 photos. The old was 3mm wide by 1mm deep. The new is 3/32" ally tube, flattened and sanded and glued to a .015 styrene base in the new routing pattern. Gives the same dimensions as original. The main change is that it goes next to the chassis oiling cylinder (not behind it), down to the 'shelf', then across and down to the ignition box. That box is also relocated lower as per 1:1. Next, lead foil straps with PE rivet heads are added to support the shielding. A new steering shaft plate is now .005 ally with a .020 styrene backer. Gets rid of the hunk of black plastic supplied. Four 00-80 bolt heads will be added as plate attachments. The electrical boxes are in place with appropriate scuffing and soiling. Hard to see in the shots but there's subtle shading in craft acrylics (a variation of black and ivory mixes) under the shielding, in corners and around the upper inner edge, where muck and soil would normally collect. This is like theater make-up; it looks extreme when applied but when dry, flattens and subtly shades the areas giving shadows and tone. Shows depth and adds 3-dimensionality to small parts. Silver Rub 'n Buff brings up the edges with highlights. The girls apply make-up with the same idea. To come is a bit of graphite rubbing to add sheen to less worn areas and factory placards. Oh and lots of oil lines and fuel lines, (and their retaining straps), the fuel filter, chassis oiler and the large vacuum fuel pump. The brass strips at the perimeter are done with Amber enamel over Titan Gold acrylic, then the hood rub strips picked out in khaki as cloth. The maroon and yellow outer paint has been color sanded and cleared. Then (when the detail is finished) is 2400 to 12,000 polishing cloths for final. Then this gets tucked away until time for fitting the rad and coachwork.

Can't help you Chuck but please take the picture down. I get the willies seeing that in my mirror. Gonna put the plate reader (rear fender) and photon disintegrator on?? My tax dollars at work........................

Well I knew there were a few pros right here which is why I didn't search elsewhere. All the answers have been terrific with explanation and experiences. Yeah, I tried the heat gun in the past but I wasn't good enough with 5-minute to lay it out. It kicked too fast but I'm sure that's my fault. Thanks David and Mike too.

Excellent tech discussion guys. Thanks again.

Great to have industry pros on the site that share. Excellent advice, tech explanations and tips. I will test all of them as I want a solid, 'go to' system every time I need epoxy. And I will test the Carpenter Glue as well-never thought of that. Many thanks to all of you.