Cato

A tip---if you're like me... Having just completed 4 months work on the engine, it's time to move to the next assembly; in this case the firewall. So the engine will be untouched for a while... Because I don't want to have to do repairs or worse...:<((, I get my finished stuff out of harms way; because if you're like me...s*** happens. So here's a no-fuss stand to store a Rolls engine. Some basswood, plastic tube, brass rod and epoxy is all it takes. Nothing fancy. Some of you do furniture-grade stands for your models but this is utilitarian. I purposely had left the exhaust manifold loose for ease of fitment into the chassis. Valve cover, oil filler and fan too. So I made a leg with 2 brass rods that fit into the engine mounts on the port side. The 3 exhaust ports are home to 3 styrene tubes on the other leg. Some careful measuring and cutting is all it takes. Nothing delicate on the engine is touching any surface. Now the lump lays comfortably on it's side and will go into a (large) shoebox sized plastic bin with snap on top. A bit of soft foam packing on the sides and it's dust, cat, child and bombproof.

A barrier is used to prevent filler from 'ghosting' up through layers of primer or paint. It seals the filler. Sometimes primer does not do that alone.

From your experience, which of these is the best thinner for airbrushing Future? A, Windex B. Isopropyl alcohol C. Distilled water D. Windshield fluid E. Another product? The application is for use as a barrier, NOT for a gloss topcoat.

Engine done... After 361 hours in 4 months, I'm calling it done. Decided not to press my luck. Thanks to some generous references supplied by Skip, Harry and several Pocher modelers, the tiny carburetor links I did not do would be of little visual profit. They would barely be visible in my open hood model. Most of what I already did is barely visible under layers of detail. In fact, I had to take it outdoors to get adequate light to capture some of it. A few last minute washes to tone down and even the bright solder, tubes, pins, rods and links. You be the judge...

John, Jason and Tim, Thanks so much for the kind words and support. It's very appreciated. Jason-I actually entertained that idea as I got deeper into the work. But I am a a slow worker and this one still has a long way to go while I figure things out. I agree, I could do another more quickly-provided I wanted to endure the torture (for me) of fabricating and fiddling with tiny parts. Plus correcting all the normal Pocher roadblocks. Then there will be the construction of a glass display case after all this torture. But since this one has decimated my retirement account, it will have to be the last 'bucket' on my bucket list......

Yes Harry-Haddocks drawings. I think I just 'finished' the engine tonight; I'm looking at (more) detailed carb linkage but might have to stop here. But be advised; I only 'represented' his work (although cutting parts to his dimensions), using lesser materials. I have no lathe or bandsaw to cut .020 brass sheet in those intricate shapes. I can't even handle the 1mm parts and dimensions he calls out. The shakes set in after a while when you've dropped the same 1mm x 1 1/2mm part 5 times while gluing. And I certainly can't handle 000-120 hardware or their wrenches. As is, 00-90's (a lot of them) gave me fits. Plus my vision is going to junk. So far I've gotten more than my moneys-worth in satisfaction, even though I spent 'too much'. I did the best I could and it's making me happy. I'm starting to feel that I got up to a new level for me. Just got a thousand miles to go to get to Comp's and Mark's levels......... PS-I'm honored about the magazine invite-if I don't screw the rest of the build, we'll talk about it. That's if it's still being published next century when I finish.......

Thank for your support Michael and Mark! Plenty more to go yet..........

These are the smallest linkage parts which I just made. They connect by rods with the distributor for advance and starting. They are as similar to 1:1 as I could get them. They are crudely made by hand as I don't have machine tools. They consist of 18 parts; 00-90 nuts, pins, styrene rod and .020 credit card. If I can snake them into place, I'll make the 3 control rods to connect to them, where the nubs of the pins protrude. I'll also have to make a distributor lever for one rod.. They will all be black and virtually lost under a lot of stuff.

I'm glad I was an escape from your chores John. Welcome aboard, there's more to come-like a year and a half maybe.............................

In order to escape (for a while) the nerve-wracking detail, I needed some incentive and a look at where I'm going with this. So the engine got placed in the chassis. It is only placed, resting atop the rails. When installed, it will be 5mm aft and 5mm lower and a lot of things get connected. The photos are intentionally altered for exposure so you can see better-it's like a life raft in a phone booth to photo-it's that big in my tiny room. Tell me what you think:

Thanks for your support Mark. A little surprise will be posted tomorrow.............

Almost there... Most of the linkage on the drivers side. Still a few bits to go but I'm not sure I can do the the finest ones. Also, weaving it through the layers already there is scary. The harsh flash was necessary to see the small stuff which is also mostly black as 1:1. Makes the weathering look too dramatic but it's much more subtle in person: The overall look so far:

Yes Harry it is. It's smaller and has the proper twist in it as 1:1. I'm a sucker for that kind o' stuff... And thanks...

Yes but I don't think they put leaky old crocks in there...

The levers and side shaft: The rear connection to the bell crank, tension spring and magneto: This side of engine finally done: A proper fan belt-the 3 decade old rubber band from the kit is a joke. This is medical tape and has a nice texture. The engine front is done except for radiator hose: Now all that's remains is a lot of scratch built linkage on the other side. The fuel line to the top of the intake removed for work space:

Back on the bench... Just before getting ill, I had completed the oil filter linkage and an oil pressure line to the dash gauge. none of this is in the kit: Onto the linkage that connects and synchronizes the distributor and magneto. It runs from the distributor, across the front of the block, then reaward to a bell crank at the magneto. Here's some bits I scratched for this: The central piece is the vacuum canister supplied by Pocher and heavily modified with oil line fittings and cross shaft tubes: After some 'aging': More below...

You're very kind Tim but don't confuse my work as 'professional'. There are guys on here who really are professionals and compared to their work, I'm a hacker. I'm just a lucky amateur who tries things. Trying to get back on the bench soon. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for your support guys. I am struggling right now but look at my project every day. It's just kind of overwhelming to me in my current state. I am trying to turn the corner and get my strength back. It's nice to look in and see people care. C.

Bill's right but omitted the ultra-rare these days 58MM IDA's. They were born for the DOHC indy engines and trickled to a few private race 427's. They are noticeably bigger than 48's. Then there's the IDF series but I never saw those modeled.

Sorry guys - severely ill. Lost a whole week and counting. Take over for me Har?

I believe those RC tires are solid foam or rubber-like tires. You would need to stuff them like I said above. But should work very well with a light touch.

Yes. Use dense pipe insulation to stiffen the inner circumference and side wall. Then wire-wheel it on your grinder at low speed-CAREFULLY. You will have bloody fingers if you're doing it right. That's how I did the very fragile GT-40 tires.

Meticulous work and expert fabrication Mark. A lesson for us all. Building the 1:1 would actually be easier than what you've accomplished.

Henry-a MFH 1/12 kit is also a big expenditure. Love to see your work on it. But a classic Pocher, with some luck, should be no more expensive. And with your skill level, you can scratchbuild many of the details without buying aftermarket parts. Glad you enjoy the tips on aging and weathering. Hope it will show up in your future work.