Cato

I'm kneading, I'm kneading! Just not reading, not reading!

For the record, neither of my tubes have the 'knead' instruction on them. Only cautions for irritant, allergies, the full MSDS sheet, 'if swallowed' and danger of hangnails. I'm going back to not reading instructions...

Thanks for the advice guys. Now I hafta read instructions too.............??

Just got a new package of the Professional 2 part Bondo. It always worked great. With this one, the small tube of hardener is mostly runny red/brown liquid. I mixed a small batch using the liquid and it catalyzed fine. But there's no solid paste unless I squeeze out the whole tube. Any one else experience this? Did they change the formula??

Didn't I just go through this when I bashed Harry's Mustang??

Thanks Mark-life getting in the way a bit but I put in many hours as I can spare. Have improved the fit of the magneto and generator and am preparing to paint the pan, block and transmission so I can assemble the small bits. Waiting for some non-humid days to shoot.

Never used on a model, just out door stuff. I think it stays slightly soft-sort of elastic. Helps with weather contraction and expansion.

Nice bodywork but please put a retainer strap across the battery so it doesn't short out on the extinguisher at 1.2g...

Did you take a few thousand pictures for me?

Thanks for the follow through-that's an important point.

Up to date. Paint and finish detailing is part of the process because you can't do it after assembly. It may not be popular but all my finishes are slightly distressed and nothing is really 'museum resto' shiny. Just used on a quasi-regular basis for an older restored, 82 year old car. Trying for this: Got this: More below:

$10K up front is nice but...I understand your concerns but the 4 may not be as cheap as you think. I dunno but does it run on regular? My Optima turbo does-274HP. Then there's the weight it has to lug (no not you... ) Torque low down may be soft unless they put a 5:00 rear in it.

I'm glad it's your choice Tim, but for me, all pony cars past '69 are missing the point. Too heavy and too 'retro' - missing the point completely. Were supposed to be big power in a small, nimble package. The new Challenger with 600HP and IRS seems interesting but I think it will be another heavy-handed styling attempt. I agree with your XK assessment but in person, the new car does have a purity of line-like the Aston.

Glad to help. Another concern is the headers. It seems one pipe right near the collector wants to hit the rear deck when closed. Eric Cole had the same problem. I elongated the carb opening so the pipe just clears but does not stick out of the opening. It ain't OEM but you can't grind the header pipe...

Gene-can you handle the Krylon after a days drying without smearing?

You're a published author right?-84 grand pocket change...

Hey Frank-great to see you back. Spending big time on your '40 pickup? Thanks for the kind words. The wheel color is Krylon 'Sweet Cream'-goes nicely with blackwalls and deep maroon. Now send Rick back-he's been AWOL in the brass and Pocher section!

C'mon Harry, Step up to the plate and get what the 'Stang guys (poorly) cribbed from the Jag guys: http://www.jaguarusa.com/all-models/f-type/gallery.html?nojs=false&prevPage=http://www.jaguarusa.com/all-models/f-type/overview/index.html The 'Stang looks like the first coupla sketches the Jag guy tried. Then they made it wider, lower and integrated everything much better. And threw those sketches away. Mustang has different proportions to Jag and looks like a slightly lumpy librarian in comparison. I saw an XK on the street and the lines just invite your eye with no interruption-stunning.

Thank you Bob.

Do you know if the platers can do this?

Just tried a change in the buffing habit. After 2 thin wet coats, and about 2 hours, I buffed lightly with facial tissue. That gets it brighter. The secret is to buff again but with about 4000 grit polishing cloth. Sheen and brightness improve drastically. You will not get a 'chrome-like' finish so don't expect that.

Kind of what I figured Harry-thanks. I may just BMF the needed areas or Alclad.

Can a styrene part be partially plated by the pro platers? Such as a bracket or strap molded onto an existing part like a generator or coil. Or is plating the whole part then painting the the surrounding part the only way?