Cato

With some 'life' interruptions along the way, I've been working steadily on the beginning of the engine build. Parts prep is everything on these models, and it reminded me to pass on a vital tip. If you don't own them yet, buy yourself a 2mm tap and 2mm die. On ANY Pocher, you must chase every threaded rod, nut and bolt. You must enlarge virtually every hole in a plastic part and most in the metal ones. The method of heating a screw (with soldiering iron) in a plastic hole so it makes its own threaded 'nest' is a staple of construction. Where you can, avoid screws and glue permanently. If you don't do all this, when you go to fasten your nicely painted and finished parts, you get the rude surprise of things that won't join. This is all in addition to the usual flash removal, seam sanding and sink filling. It's tedious, boring work and you need the discipline to do it for hours. Then you'll just have parts that will fit together-not the gleaming end result you've been dreaming of. But you'll get there..........

Force is very correct. The main visual differences are that the 428 has half the cylinder head as part of the intake and raised bosses at the exhaust ports.

You should never underestimate to whom you are talking on a web site. You don't know what I've done and what I know. Gene read my explanation and understood it. See the thread I'm going to start so as not to be unkind to the OP of this one. We'll discuss it there and it will be my thread so no one is disadvantaged. Working on my Rolls right now and it definitely takes priority over 'Cobra Nonsense'.

-and how would you know??

Gene, Don't wish to hi-jack this Cheetah thread so no more Cobra dissertations. Don't try to convince anybody. It seems that the armchair scientists who write or read Cobra lore knows WAAAY more than anyone who's built, raced and owned one. Appreciate your comments.

Thanks Joe, but if I could, I'd do another one a lot better than what I knew then.

Fair enough and good illustration. I could not get the rims any slimmer-and I sanded every one of the seven rings' mating surfaces. But look carefully at the inners on both sides and you can see that the contour of the black swells where mine does and hangs a bit over the rim. I think what makes it pronounced on mine is the white side is very smooth from rim to tread-molded that way. The black side on mine has a different, bulged arc from rim to tread. I'm weighing, if I make them blackwalls (your vinyl paint I guess), I'll have the smooth (white) side out. Jury's still out on that. But I do love the tires and can live with them as is. And-it may be the camera lens but I have near zero positive camber on mine as opposed to what's seen on Paul's. Worked darned hard on that too. EDIT-Hey, I just noticed that the left front brake drum on Paul's car is standing off the backing plate! Just like I illustrated with mine in this post. Should I share my secret with Paul??

Yes they are. The whitewall side is smooth all the way from the rim to nearly the tread.They have a slight bulge. The black side has the four circumferential rings plus the radiating sipes outward. That side is bulged right where the rings start. Two different sidewall contours. I assembled the wheels without the screws in the outer rims to avoid the tires 'standing off' the rims. They fit fine and look good with the chassis sitting on them. Plus they go on and off the rims easily without getting chewed up. Very supple. You can only see the two different contours from dead ahead or behind and low down. You don't like 'em?? Edit-I took pains to get the rims exactly 18mm wide between the beads; as narrow as I could get them. But all 5 are the same.

Things you shouldn't have to do... I know I've been a strong critic of Pocher quality or lack thereof. I will be the first to say that this kit was a huge engineering project (in the days before CAD tooling and CNC) and they did amazingly well in many areas. It was an ambitious project and would have been better and cheaper without the attempted operational features. But getting some of the basics right is hit or miss and provides plenty of rude surprises for the builder along the way. I have been working steadily since last posting and have completed all 5 wheels. Tough, tedious job but now done to my satisfaction. So onto the test fitting of brake drums to wheels and wheels to suspension-cake after the wheels right?? Pocher booby trap time.. This view shows the front brake drum with a 3/16" gap to the backing plate-whaa happened?? http:// Much head scratching and on-off-on action led to one conclusion; the wheel center hub is machined to fit over the brass spindle and be screwed on from the outside, securing the wheel and tire. The hub has a stepped center hole. BUT-the spindle was machined too long, forcing the hub to stand off by that amount. My only conclusion was to 'machine' the spindle nose down so the drum would be flush to the backing plate. The blue tape guides where the machining needs to be. Unable to disassemble the spindle from the axle at this point and sweating bullets, I decided to Dremel the offending amount off the spindle-gorilla-style: http:// After a shaky few minutes, I got it flat and smooth, then the acid test. Mount wheel and screw in place-nice and flush. Had to do both sides. Will check the rear for the same problem when I get there: http:// Now for 'relaxation' on to the engine construction which is pretty much straightforward plastic piece assembly. More relaxing than the wheel business...

NO! It is 2 part-hardener comes in that package in a smaller tube. Mix until light pink, apply not too heavily, let dry about 1/2 hour. Sands beautifully. Does not shrink.

This: http://www.amazon.com/Bondo-801-Professional-Glazing-Putty/dp/B004BYKICG/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1400084218&sr=1-3&keywords=bondo+professional

Glad you agree about the paint choice. You can cut styrene strips and glue from the inside edges of the trunk. Then fill with Bondo and sand to match trunk contours. Or do the same to the trunk instead if that's easier for you.

It's yours and your prerogative but if you two tone it you will destroy the beautiful lines of this classic shape. It will dis-integrate it. I'm not saying this because two tone is 'not original'-I'm talking about the purity of the shape as an art form. And the shame of it is that you're doing beautiful bodywork to make it a pure, integral form. I know-it's your project...

Mine:

Thanks for the tip and update!

Thanks for the comprehensive reply. I have found 'Bondini', also made by Pacer to be excellent for metal (PE brass and steel) to styrene bonds.

Pete, who kits this? Do you solder and CA for joining?

How about because they were a completely different type of car??

This is the single biggest 'wives tale' from internet pundits and wizards ever perpetrated in all of Cobra lore. A 427 or 428 with aluminum heads, intake and water pump weighs 520 pounds. Iron heads and water pump add 60 pounds. My replica, weighing about 150 pounds more than an aluminum '60's car, has a weight distribution of 48 / 52 - with me in it it's 47 / 53. That's wet with 1/2 tank of fuel. An original would have the same distribution, (given the aluminum parts). A '60's 289, which had iron heads and pump weighs about 150 pounds less than the big block (smaller frame diameter, brakes and narrower bodywork). But the same distribution. It also had a transverse front leaf. The lighter overall mass did not translate into better lap times or transient handling numbers. Smaller contact patch, higher roll centers and increased bump steer all limited its cornering ability. Just look at the vintage photos of inside front wheels off the pavement. What is always confused is that the smaller car is easier to drive under its limit. Nitwits construe that as better handling. The big block requires a driver experienced to work harder to get the higher cornering limits out of the chassis and limit the always-present oversteer. When that happens, you're going faster than the small block car driven by the same or equivalent driver. No big block understeers with that weigh distribution. They are both (and Cheetah) hampered by the 90" wheelbase compared to modern sports cars. Getting all the power down at corner exit is a skill to be learned with seat time. For lap times the big block car is superior in every way. Drive one of each on a track and you'll understand this more easily. But work up to the limits with care...

Hey Joe-not to disappoint you; just remembered I have scans (from print film!) of my Alfa, built circa 1979. Didn't know a thing about all its issues or corrections. Given as a gift to a friend in 1980...

Thanks Joe. I did build the Spyder but near 40 years ago! There are many pitfalls to that kit also but it is beautifully rakish to look at. Yes I greatly appreciate the advice and encouragement from some of the guys. Look up Harry's old Spyder build, I know it's here, or PM him to dig it out for you. IIRC his is a green / tan combination and beautiful. He also did the Muletto...

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Michael, Will you kit your 427 Cobra this way?

Probably because the steering column and gearbox are right under the carburetor and on the opposite side, would contact the exhaust down pipe. So they swapped the cylinder head (2 separate castings) or reversed it. I don't think the distributor was an issue. But they did move the battery box-seems like a lot of additional parts for the swap. $$$