Cato

OK-I'll be patient. I know it will be worth the wait.

I'm yellow so I take little bites at a time...

You too Frank-update please!!!

Update please!!!

Overall, nicely done. Captures the 'feel' of the rawness. Nice job on the sidepipes and good move to build a comp windscreen instead of the clunky full screen all these models have. Work on lowering the ride height on your next one.

Yup-don't want knock knees or bowl legs..........

427 and 428 engines were mostly black blocks and (iron) heads. The freeze plugs you did gold were block color (they were screw in type on 427's). Some were Ford blue. Aluminum heads (very popular today but rare in '66) are dull aluminum color. The oil pans were silver cad plate (Aviad) or block color. The rectangular box located on driver side between the chassis rails is the brake master cylinder box. There are two cylinders directly connected below the brake pedal in the car. It should be black sheet metal as was the chassis.

After a great deal of trial and error, I managed to get the camber angle corrected between the MMC axle receivers and the Pocher uprights and kingpins. Their uprights are drilled for the kingpin (a 2mm x 15mm screw) at an angle to give a vertical wheel placement with the Pocher plastic axle-which has negative camber built into the axle ends. The MMC axle has no camber-the hole is drilled dead vertical in the axle ends. So when you put the Pocher uprights on the MMC axle, the stub axle (which the wheel rotates on) has huge camber-the wheels are tilted either in or out (at the tops) radically. After much horseplay bending the steel uprights many times, a call to MMC revealed that the fix is simply bending the bronze axle in a vice until true vertical or whatever camber angle you desire, is achieved. There is enough 'give' in the bronze to allow this but it's trial and error and requires mounting the wheel backing plate and uprights to see the angle reached ever time ( a freakin' lot) you make a change. Compound that with the fact that I went very cautiously once achieving the 'feel' for bending, and worked my way to very nearly dead vertical. Getting one side even with the other is also a trying task. On a real 1:1, I got to about 1 degree positive camber which I suspect will settle to zero when the whole model is full weight and tires in place. That's the plan anyway... http:// I think the Brits call this 'fettling'-I have another 'f' word I call it....

Where do you guys get these fabulous fotos???

yessss.......I have their McLaren MP-4 (I think) in the basement. Nothing but the tires fit.

Yes...it's called 'Destructive Testing'.

Yes they make beautiful stuff. Their tiny levers and clevises are also cast bronze and they're all very consistent.

Here are the beautiful Model Motorcars bronze front axle, and their levers, brackets and bolts needed to complete the axle. The axle is far stronger than the plastic Pocher (thanks for suggesting Rick) and will not let the car's suspension sag over time. Plus there's no flash or pin marks! The PE leaf springs will carry the axle and further add to rigidity. http:// http:// Having learned a valuable lesson on the rear axle, I am spending time clearing every hole where rods and bolts pass through and chamfering every thread so the nuts all start easily. Then test fitting things like the U-bolts you see that hold the springs. Everything requires a bit of massaging. Better now than after finish is applied. http:// This is one of the prettiest 'mechanical' aspects of the car and it all shows when done, so time spent now pays a nice dividend later.

Great help-thanks to both of you.

"...anvil came that way, and if you build Pocher kits, is a good tool to have..." So you can drop it on the model in a rage when you're totally fed-up ????

Thanks Chip! Would you explain this? "I kept a WD 40-type setup for just this."

Beautiful Rick. Amazing how similar to my RR frame-which came 25 years later. Means the Rolls was using archaic technology?? How long is the whole frame? Jeeze-even your anvil is polished...

I understand your goal. I haven't seen the RB seat PE but I just carefully picked-out the stock seat's circles with silver pen and it looks much better and more subtle than you'd imagine. Also, paint the seats NATO too; they took a beating and were never full flat black. Be sure to get the cables and wires to the fuse panel and put a regular battery on the floor with its cables. It adds a lot of 'feel' to the model. Those cockpits were a mess and pretty scruffy.

Jason, You'll find that Trump used George Stauffer's restoration of the car for reference. Good and bad. George used many parts to make it eligible for vintage racing, like the Optima. He also added the roll cage, which the car did not have in the '66 race. The cage came at Daytona later on. Unless you have very specific photos for chassis 1015, you'll find the kit is compromises and guesses on Trump's part. The fuel pump array is another area where the 1:1's used different arrays and numbers of the SW 240-A fuel pumps. The 427 also needs a lot of additional detail, at least where you can see it on top. Forget the oil filter (you won't see it) and concentrate on making accurate throttle linkage, a coil and coolant lines. The cars in '66 used fabric covered oil and fuel lines, not braided stainless. I found that using the kit supplied 'hose', stained with NATO black and dull aluminum fittings, (not red / blue) gets you very close. One of the 'lumps' they put on the bulkhead should have a line from the pumps to it then a line across the bulkhead to the carb front inlet. Many thicknesses are all wrong, like the air pan and water deflector over the distributor. I used .005" aluminum and made scale ones. Throw out the clunky anti-roll bars, suspension arms and trailing arms. I made them from .075" wire. For the right look, you must lower the front suspension about 3mm. I have a 1:1 427 in my Cobra so ask if you have further questions. Almost forgot, don't spend on the KA detail set, you can duplicate everything using scratch stuff or modified kit stuff. The seat eyelets are way over scale on their PE. Ultimately, you can come closer than Trump for #1 but you may just get a 'decal' model rather than dead-nuts accurate.

I'd like more control by using air brush. Does it need thinning and if so which thinner? I assume it needs to out-gas before spraying. This is gloss Krylon I'm asking about. Interested in any techniques used.

And I'll bet it says 'Made in China' on the bottom... They should be called 'China lights'

Brass strap looks great. Good to see you back on this. You will be done lightyears before I will.. But I'm watchin'..

"Malibu lights"??? You live in Chicago!! Look we all have that carp to do but we don't pack-up for the season! You'll do anything to get out of restarting that Rolls...........

Next is the bronze front axle from MMC and their links and rods. It will then sit nicely in the front workstand for engine installation. Not shown but complete are the radiator / grille and steering gearbox and column. They will go in after the axle but before the engine. Hope you like: http:// http:// http://

And some more: http:// http:// http://