Cato

Why do you place yourself in some different category? I am surely in no superior building category than you. Your Bentley, built 20 years ago stands right up to the best levels seen here daily. And you obviously have the ability to discern levels of detail in references that many easily miss. If you can see 'em, you can reproduce 'em. I understand and for the most part agree with your point about translating details down to 1/16. But having done both, I can tell you it doesn't always or easily translate-unless you're a machinist or caster like Mark Jones for instance (there are others here). Harry and Teresi obviously live on both sides of that street too. Working twice the size of 1/16 allows easier high levels of detail and usually more of them. But my Rolls may not be chock full of non-stock details so therefore the equivalent of a really good 1/16. I'm just really hoping for as immaculate, square of a build as I can achieve. I hope I said clearly what I'm thinking...

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No Skip-they lock into place in slots. And you wouldn't want anyone playing with them when done...

I already got Rick in action; enough incentive to push you over I hope??

And here's the near complete radiator; Remember, I said a driven, older restoration-not a museum piece. It will leak a little (English right??) and ooze grease and oil a bit. Straight from the Crewe workshop; No bug spatters like the GT-40 however...

GET STARTED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Save the little cars for your grandkiddies...

Seasick pills???????

You'll need opening doors or we won't see your tufted interior! Flat hood sides??

I'm familiar with a bit of the dialog-through marriage... Thanks will check your pal.

Does your friend make Sedanca parts???

Yahoooooo! The forum gets 2 Pochers at the same time! Now if Harry would only see the light.......... PS-Rick, who is 'FRG'??

A little too much Valpolicella for Vincenzo?? Fantastic second picture with exhaust blast from 1 & 4! Rick, push everything on the bench onto the floor and get started!!!!!

Here's the modification of the radiator to install the brass rod for adjusting the stance of the radiator. The first shot is the radiator back half with the cast boss for the hose. Basically, the modification is to relocate the hose lower so a new hole for the 2mm brass rod can fit comfortably under the bottom of the hood. That lets the hood sit flush. So the boss is sanded off and cleaned up. Then the 2mm hole is drilled. The rod must pass through the rad and have a nut installed on the back and a locking nut on the front. A dummy plate is made of .060" styrene to a similar shape to the original hose boss. Both holes are carefully drilled in the plate. 'Rivets' added are pin heads. Then the whole assembly is painted radiator color. The hose shown is a section of printer cable which is the perfect diameter to match the Pocher (dry, brittle, cracked) hose.I left the inner core on the stub to fit into the hole. Remember this is only necessary if you have the early version kit. The brace is vital to get good, square alignment on the hood and cowl parts. Thanks to Marvin Meit for showing me this mod as MMC does this on all the early versions they build for customers.

... conversely, if you sold the jillion 1/16 and bigger kits you have, you could get yourself a Pocher project and join the madness! You know, I thought working in 1/8 scale would be a help to my dwindling eyesight. But then I discovered handling 2mm nuts ain't a big help...................

Good!

Forgot! Before doing any of that, you must finish and paint (it's deep maroon with NO metallic) the 'front tray' (if you choose to use it) because the front crossmember threads through the holes in the sides of it and then is placed in front of the rad. So here it is just laying in place. Another piece that will be final-installed with the rad / second crossmember; http:// Truly, to go 1 step forward, you need to go 5 steps back...

This post is not designed to be a teaser. It's a peek at what's in store as you add big chunks together. Here the radiator and shell are fitted in place on the chassis, It's not complete or permanent. The rad still needs the slats in front and the Flying Lady-the actual last thing you put on the car. It is the result of 12 hours work. Before you think I'm a pokey (you're right), here's the purpose and actual process. Remember I said you have to plan 10 steps ahead? Last you saw I had the chassis near complete and final. To do that, you nut-together the very front crossmember-seen with the hand crank bearing in the center. To do that, you need the second (radiator) crossmember finalized in position. Koo's disc warns that the rad must sit dead vertical and centered side-to-side.This is accomplished by an adjustable bracing brass rod which runs from rad top center to the top of the firewall in the rear. Otherwise the hood and body panels will be ill-fitting without neat shutlines. So to do that, you must assemble the two radiator halves, and fit the steel shell to the plastic crossmember. Much flash removal and deburring. To do that, I had to widen the crossmember .020" (.010" per side to keep it centered) so that the rad fit comfortably without slack. Pause for a second about Pocher early blacksmithing. The second version of this kit (and you should be careful about which you buy on eBay) comes with both holes for the brace, the brace and hardware itself, in the kit. Lucky me has the early, first version. No brace or holes. Thanks to Koo's disc and advice from Marvin Meit, the method to modify the early rad for the brace was explained to me. I then set out to emulate what Marvin had shown me. I'll explain that process in a separate post, but it's what took the bulk of the time to get to this point. You can't see in this poorly lit shot but the rad is weathered from the heat and subtlety stained with coolant leaks and sweat... So the point is; see what you must plan ahead of time to just do a simple thing like close the front of the chassis? I've been poring over the notes and photos and cross-referencing the info all the hours I'm not actually 'building'. It's a building experience that exercises all your skills (including some you must acquire) and really brings the satisfaction the Pocher pro guys talk about on completion. It's not for everyone, but for the few of you following along who are contemplating trying one, I hope it's encouraging. Because I'm just an average-skill modeler. And a word about Marvin Meit from Model Motorcars; he is most helpful about (not only his upgrade parts) any assembly question or method needed to get a good result. A gentleman and regular guy too. It's nice to get a little incentive to go on when you put the big, (as big as the calculator in the pic) shiny grille shell in place. The chassis is so big, taking full side pictures is very difficult indoors. The rad modification for the brace coming next.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm-I've only got maybe a decade left Harry; before then????

OK that will cost you 3 Concours points.

Harry, Just noticed in your WIP that the steering wheel looks sorta like the 'biker's cross' (or Blue Max and such) seen in the '60's and '70's. Did your reference show that as accurate to the date??

Great job. You must be K & S' best customer..!

What - no dome light?? What wire thickness did you find for those top strap fasteners? Goes without saying another meticulous and thoughtful job-except for no power top or dome light...

Can't see your trademark button-tuft seat with that top up. If you weren't in a hurry, you should have made the top operable. Actually. power operated........

Nice thinking 'inside' the box.

May the gods of eBay grant your wish!