Cato

This is the kind of discussion I was hoping for. It IS one of the on-going dilemmas I've been wrestling with-color selection affects the whole presentation. Chassis color is part of it-I probably won't do gloss black. I AM very sure I'll paint the Pocher wheels. Marvin's wheels are beautiful, but that's $200 I can use on the springs. I think the kit wheels will be very neat if painted. I don't like them left in gray plastic and nickel. I have been greatly inspired by the finishes and colors you guys are using on your early cars. Keep it up please guys-I change my mind about every 10 seconds. Not adverse to a 'committee' build here...

Custom bodies were always the owner's discretion. Rolls only actually built the running chassis. No one can find where Pocher sourced this style fender so it can't be 'wrong'-anything was done for the owner. This car is actually a compilation of parts and styles according to the experts who've studied them. I'm pretty comfortable building this as I might have ordered one in the day -but then I'd be an even older crock than I am....

I think using individual tubes (head pipes too) , bent as advised and carefully cut gives what you want. Cutting and flanging them like mine actually makes it easier for you to work them. Just takes time...

Thanks for the feedback guys. Yes, I expected enamel to take it's time but thought this was some sort or synthetic or acrylic enamel. May try Krylon to see if it gives me the 'satin' look I want.

The spokes are another world to get right. IIRC I think Koo devoted 46 pages to that assembly and a ton of pics.

Yes in the '80's. Went to Mitchell Field too and saw the Jug in natural metal there--GAWDD!!!!!

Should look like mine: http:// I cut the sidepipes and flanged for open headers. When open, a 14" collector pipe bolts on with same turnout at end. Or else, you and side of car gets blasted. The full sidepipe is not baffled anyway.

I'm finding that the satin black takes a full 24 hours to dry without tackiness. Is that usual for this brand or do I have an old can?---of paint that is!

Send him over with his spanners! Hope your excitement can last about 2 years...

Thanking you.

I think Harry's dehydrator helps that. Hey Harry show us how you make those straps and buckles please-I want to do one for the Sedanca's hand crank...

When I worked in a restoration shop, my path to work was some of the streets of Huntington that were once the Vanderbuilt course. Some of those back streets and houses were probably just like they were in '08...

Only when you have talent do you get away with that-I never do..

A thing I like to do is add weight to my models; gives them a nice 'feel'. Here I added playground dry sand to the battery box and glued it shut. Helps balance the car side-to-side with the 7" long steel tube muffler. Also nicely weights the tires. Please come with comment or critique-all help needed and desired. http://

I've finally begun my 'bucket list' model, the 1/8 scale, 1932 Rolls. Bought from eBay, it was a 'complete' but open kit. It suffered minor storage damage from dampness (carpet, instrument stickers, booklet and a bit of rust on unplated steel parts) but I managed to source new replacements or fixes for all. After inventory it was only actually missing about 4 screws and a few nuts. I was pretty lucky and a decent price at the time. This won't be a part-by-part WIP because, at my pace this will take a couple of years to look like something. I will post occasional updates and I really hope to just establish some dialog with experienced Pocher builders or interested parties. I do work on it nearly every day and constantly study references generously provided by Skip and tips from Harry. Several of you have also been gracious with offers of shared experience. I strongly recommend to any contemplating this to acquire Paul Koo's CD of build photos and notes-it's just invaluable and prevents falling into many of Pocher's 'traps' and shortcomings. The build manual leaves a lot to the imagination to say the least. Also recommend you build on something like an 8' long counter or door, with power strip and room to organize. Hunting through piles and bags of parts is frustrating. And bring your patience along as I not-so-jokingly call Pocher, 'The Blacksmith to the Stars'. BTW-I have built Pocher's Alfa Spyder in the late '70's so I knew what to expect. I do not recommend this K-72 Sedanca as a first Pocher unless you have much scratchbuilding experience. You'll see why as I go along. My 'philosophy' for this is a very neat, clean build with some of model Motorcar's jewel-like parts added. When you look at their site you want everything but then you're almost bankrupt if you do. I want to lower the ride height as supplied and get perfect alignment of the hood with cowl and grille and the placement of the wheel openings with the tires. Very big eyesores on stock-built Pochers-Koo shows you how. I'm contemplating their tires (5 @ $40 per), their PE leafspring kit ($215) and some functional chassis parts and clevises. More as it progresses. I hope to have the chassis complete and in paint by late spring. I have spent the first 3 weeks organizing my tools and the parts in the near phone-booth sized work room. Then de-burring, de-seaming, sanding and mocking the major elements of the chassis. My goal was a straight, plumb, rigid chassis and so far, in mock-up I've done that. But it's tedious and requires not rushing on to get something glued together. Pocher demands many parts to be installed early as their fasteners will be inaccessible when other parts are added (like engine in chassis). So I've prepped and trail fit all these so far. I will then blow it apart and paint all individual parts plus the 26" long chassis and then final assembly. So you're constantly looking ahead and building out of sequence. You get it so on to the pics: Out of the basement and partially spread out: http:// The general arrangement-it's BIG: http:// Thank you Pocher; .095" shim needed to properly place exhaust hanger bracket: http:// In position: http:// Crossmembers located: http://

The crazy practice of drag racers driving 5:1+, locked-rear cars on the street (when I was a teen) was such a spectacle. They hopped and chattered sideways. But they were 'BAD'... I think part of your answer is that these brass cars slid sideways a bit or a lot (depending on speed) due to the miniscule tire contact patches and rock-like compounds. Lot of old paintings and film show the tails stepping out.

$$$-AMEN...

Love straight and tidy foundations. It shows in correct stance in the finished products. Those rivets are cool-but tiny. I have used a PE sheet of rivets, screw and hex-heads from Scale Mtsps in 1/12 scale-should work fine here in 1/16.

I think Dayton Wire circumvented that by essentially using heavier gauge wire spokes in their chromed wheels. As opposed to the '60's-era English and Italian sport wheels. They are never seen on racecars however.

Probably John Teresi's Bentley.

Will do.

Harry-gluing parts that have been painted has always been problematic for me. Are you actually scraping / sanding paint on the glue edges to get a good bond?? Then touch up if needed? I think hi-gloss paints are difficult to do that with-no?

Guys-don't wish to thread-jack anyone's work here. For the record-me four-never found these fenders in all my research. But I do love them with a bit of reservation. I'll work to get ride height down so no 'dead-cat' space. I crave this discussion but will start a tentative 'almost WIP' thread of my own and welcome all such input. Harry-should I put it here or in WIP? Updates will be infrequent, but I hope discussion is frequent. And you have permission to jack my thread with your Sedanca's renewed progress...hint....hint...

Very glad to see that. Don't get your expectations up. I can easily disappoint this crowd...

OK, time for me to 'fess up. I'm not just a fanboy cheerleader for you guys. I actually build some stuff. After a layover for (attempted) medical repairs, I've decide to finally start my 'bucket' car, maybe my last build because it will take me forever-the Sedanca K-72. Thanks (again) to Skip and Harry and a little local advice from a certain Pocher Phile, I've been wading through tons of research and Koo's disc for help. So far, three + weeks of 8-10 hour days has seen me de-burr, redrill, de-seam and test fit everything on the chassis. Thank you Pocher, Blacksmith to the Stars. I see I'm still cursed with 'Anal-itis', and doing things that won't be seen-taking untold hours. However, I'm nowhere near as talented as you guys and would be pleased with a 'near museum', almost OOB neat build with some of Marvin's jewels sprinkled on. I'm no machinist and lack those tools so don't look for John Haddock-type work. If I were more accomplished, I'd do a complete car and a separate display chassis with right clevises, linkages and bolt together stuff. -just love this old hardware. Speaking of which-this 1932 example is carrying most all the same chassis equipment that you guys work with on the Brass Era cars. Not much progress there in 20 years. Anyway, I'll post a progress shot once in a while but no WIP-too labor intensive for me at this stage. Feel free to pop in with advice or corrections anytime. I need the help. PS-Please hound Harry to re-start and post his Sedanca, and stop with these 'little toy cars'.