Cato

I'm afraid I'll be proud posthumously... So true about seeing what you're doing with these 1mm parts. I use 5x glasses and an Ott- Lite and it's fine. But changing focal length from the tools a foot away to the workpiece 3" away gives me headaches by the 3rd hour. Snapping the nipples in would have been fine but I had to use the hot iron which added another dimension of stress. But I've got the feel now and the others should go more quickly. I've actually got to take another of those backward steps now. The modified steering shaft came back from Marvin and I will assemble it into the steering box, finish it and install into the chassis, Then the steering arm to the front axle. Then back to wheel fun. I still want a 'crying icon!!'.

Thank you Harry and everything you say is true especially the stress from fumbling. The one wild card was having brittle plastic between the spoke slots on the outer rings. Snapped a couple until I got the idea to use the 'melting method' to heat the spokes into place rather than 'snap' them in as Koo's instruction shows. And Pocher's (jokingly named) instructions don't even tell you that! Then I had to get the feel of how much heat and how hard to press (not at all) before they sunk into just the right depth. All my kit's gray plastic is like that. The black plastic of the frame and body has a different composition. It's harder but less brittle. I melted all those screws in and never broke or stripped one (so far ).

Wire Wheel Pain... I'm showing you the 'glamour' shots-the pain shots are too painful right now. This is the first completed wheel-3 solid days, one aborted attempt and finally a decent finished product. 80 spokes / 80 spoke nipples and lots of hub and rim parts. I won't give a pain-by-pain description because it's too lengthy. But I will give anyone who cares enough a detailed description of successful techniques off line-it's way too much for this thread. Sadly, I was battling brittle (very old) plastic which snapped on me in the beginning causing a vocabulary demonstration known only to aliens. I quickly learned some tricks to deal with it and will be able to salvage some interior damage without outward evidence. Shown with the MML tire which is beautiful by itself: http:// Here's the back side. I bought the whitewalls to give me the option if I want to use them facing out. The black side is very handsome and I may use that out and spray the white side black for the inside. Shown with the cream color the wheels will be sprayed: http:// The tires are supple with a very firm tread area-no fear of collapse. Yes I will sand the parting line when I stop twitching: http:// http:// http:// I'll post a few construction pics to give the idea. The important point is that it IS doable; you must have Koo's notes and photos (he shows a better way for accurate spokes than the kit way), unlimited patience and a determination to get them right. You must acquire a 'feel' with your tools, soldering iron and of course prep every single wheel part meticulously. Now just 4 more to go.... (We need a 'crying' icon Harry...)

I use blue painters tape to seal the edges of the mask to my face and upper nose. As long as you're not sweating, it holds very well and removes easily when job is done. No fumes leak in.

No question but yet again, another step away from OE in my journey.

About those springs... The recent questions regarding the PE springs with no arch in them as I installed them led me to contact Marvin at MML. He sent me photos of a finished car assembled with them and they are indeed not arched. Further, the car sit at correct ride height and the front perches protrude as mine do. In a 'duh' moment which I should have done sooner, I measured the Pocher rubber springs and found that the PE steel front springs are 3mm longer, accounting for the forward angle of the spring perch. The rears, are the same dimension. The front axle is situated in the correct location related to the other chassis points. So I'm following the advice of the men that made the parts. They haven't been wrong yet.

Thanks-that's a big help.

Yes-as stated, I did the Spyder in the '70's and there were 6 of those. 'Only' 5 here so it's a breeze... These have 78 spokes and 78 nipples per wheel and six rim rings. Harry, share please; the Muletto wheels in black look wonderful. I assume you airbrushed but what's the secret to get even paint application between the spokes, front and back? Did you shoot color as you built each layer of spokes or the whole complete wheel at once??

Thank you Eric. But you're a tiny bit late. Wheels on the table right now. Reason is, I wanted to get a grueling task out of the way or at least underweigh. After reviewing Koo's notes this morning, I spent the last 6 1/2 hours prepping the wheel parts. Fifteen plastic rings and fifteen metal rings. I know-some guys build whole models in that time. I'm nuts for sweating some of this stuff. I remember, when building the Alfa in the '70's I built them right OOB. But I want true mating surfaces and all the slots for the spokes must be trued. Ejector pins, part numbers, holes and flash-a flat surface with 100 grit taped down then hand work to take down edges with 220. None of what I did is cosmetic-it'll never show except hopefully, a perfect array of spokes in a true rim. I've also got to do testing to see best way to get primer and paint in between everything. I may in fact start some engine prep when I get to a stage with these or fed-up. Just know that EVERY PART OF EVERY POCHER REQUIRES PREP AND TEST FITTING. http:// http://

A big deal (for me at least). The complete front axle. Awaiting some small parts from Marvin and this assembly goes into the chassis-making it 95% complete. Just need to install the steering box and arm and we're ready for 'big stuff'-engine, or wheels, which should it be gang? The axle seen in front view here. For those not crazy about my idea to leave metal parts natural finish, I have made a concession. To reduce the bling factor, I shot a mix of Tamiya smoke, flat black and gray into the recesses of the cast parts and on the arms. It's subtle, almost like road dust, but it's there and did cut the brightness. I like it: http:// Left front wheel. The vertical structure is the brace that connects the axle to the damper body (on the chassis) by a lever. Gets connected when axle meets springs on the frame: http:// Right front; steering arm in foreground: http:// Rear view, left front. That tiny linkage is the MMC set which eliminates the Pocher flat stamped parts which look like blacksmith stuff by comparison. Attached with 00-90 bolts and nuts. The rod is .039" music wire and a b#*!% to cut. The pivots actually articulate when the wheels are turned. They move the levers and lean with camber. Lot of fumbling around to get these together. Very cool: http:// Right front from rear; the wheels turn smoothly, with full travel with no slop. Tie rod is in foreground: http://

Yes-I remember-but I hope we all live long enough to see it.

Oh baby! This is what I was hoping by posting a detailed WIP-to get more guys to build Pochers. If you have plenty of tools, plenty of patience and plenty of $$ ( ) please dive in. Sell off 60 of those stash kits and you'll pay your way into a museum model. The Maharaja is more complex than the Sedanca. Harry has one but is being his secretive self about showing it. And now there are several of us on here to share tips and experience to navigate one of these. It has been an enormous aid to me to have their help. Best luck in the buying process-don't fret missing some parts; I've found that there are a small number of solid suppliers. Keep me posted!

I would but I can't even get you to post the rest of the *!$*?%&! pictures of your Rolls!!!!

I have to break into your house one afternoon when you're at the plumbing supply and steal your cache of wonderful 1:1 reference...............

Then hopefully you'll like the exhaust system. These pics are poor, more indirect lighting needed. But you'll get the idea. The main muffler and tailpipe are already hung in the chassis as you saw but these bits will go in with the engine. All plastic except for the small muffler which is brass. Acrylics, graphite, sprayed, brushed, daubed and rubbed: http:// http:// http:// http://

Correct my friend. John Haddock shows how to make them in his superdetail notes. They were woven through what may be brass strips brazed to the rad and bolted to the cowl. I have painted the raised detail that Pocher provides (which isn't bad) a dirty khaki color for the strips. If you cut 24 (for the rad alone)strips of cloth or medical tape, 1mm wide by 6mm long, I'll make the brass strips and attach them. But I'm nuts enough with what I've got already...

You have a sharp wife! That's 73 years old!---the truck I mean.

MMC supplies it with the PE springs.

That's not a problem. Post away!

Thank Frank-for sure I'll check. My early rubber springs are like taffy and they have NO weight on 'em!

No Harry, not wrong. I asked Marvin about this early on because I wanted to be able to adjust ride height. I hate 'dead-cat' space above the tires. He said to leave them, that his builders do not arch them. I will wait until near the end when it's full weight (or maybe add weights to guess finish weight) to see where the fenders and tire windup. If need be, I'm pretty sure I can un-do the front perches, curve the springs and reassemble. Pretty sneaky way I got you to post a chassis pic huh? C'mon! It's beautiful; more pics in my thread please!!!!

Ahhhh-now the good stuff (luck) is happening. It all fits and plays nice together. Mounted in the spring perches, the axle winds up square to the rad and front crossmembers. Yes, the spring are minus a shackle each and remember, just a few fasteners while test-fitting. It will be complete when it's complete : http:// From below: http:// Now the really good news. The front spring perch center rests 81mm from ground level on both sides. The wheelbase, measured from kingpin hole center to center of rear axle (the black nipple on the cap) is within .5mm (1/2 a mm) at 461.9mm (18 3/16"): http:// Next is removing the axle for finish and the rest of the junk Rolls hung under there to (jokingly) stop and steer this monster. But tonight, COLD BEER...

Next bit of fun and the major part, is tweeking the front springs. Each spring pack required enlarging the slots for the U-bolts that retain them to the axle. Like stainless steel flakes in your eyes? Use a .043" thick Dremel disc in a .060" wide slot that needs to be wider: http:// If you're lucky, what you wind up with: http:// The spring receiver pads on the axle required enlarging and slotting (again)-not fun: http:// -Until you get to this part; putting them together: http://

Major progress today after another step back. The previous presentation on the grille and crossmember came under further review of the Executive Committee (me...). Although I could get the adjustment required, the parts were under tension and that's a no-no. Turns out the front tray (maroon) was warped slightly and put pressure on the rad crossmember and grille. After disassembly and much tweeking (sanding and shimming), all better: http:// The grille is now near dead vertical with NO pressure. The brace rod, when in place, will find dead vertical easily. The rad crossmember, front tray and crossmember are now permanently mounted, solid and touched-up. The grille shell will be removed from the crossmember to prevent damage while construction continues: http:// Brass rod shows where the hand crank rod will go through the rad and into the crank snout. Square up front: http://

He did correct it in post #5 jb.