Cato

Are you throwing down the 'gauntlet' ...? If so be prepared for a drubbing from the Benz Meister....

Harry, meant to ask; how did the flat acrylic adhere to the glossy black? Did you use retarder or sand the black edge first? Did you need multiple coats of white?

More costume rehearsal... Here is the major geometry of the coach work in relation to the chassis and itself. Best I could do. The rear wheel is nicely centered, something that always needs correcting on these. Grille, hood, body and trunk all play nicely together. Overall, I'm pleased (and surprised!) with the stance and attitude with one reservation; I would like the rear ride height lower just a bit. But it is much improved over stock Pocher. I love the front. I can't de-arch the PE rear springs which are near horizontal now. Maybe I'm just nuts after looking at it 10,000 times. Your opinions appreciated; OK to continue or should I used it for mortar practice?? Don't be shy... /

OUTSTANDING thought process and execution. I would have passed on that but you are the better man! Somebody get Skip an oxygen mask.... :lol:

Dress rehearsal...

That's just the grainy black plastic from Pocher. Yes, I have deep wine-colored gabardine to cover it. A lovely neat texture. And thanks to Harry's input, I'll have an (somewhat) easier time of it. Bob, plenty of hacking to come and thanks for the support.

Finally a breakthrough... After much head scratching, I realized that I had been positioning the floor incorrectly in relation to the cowl / firewall. Koo gives you no guidance other than the floor must contact the back of the firewall. I finally did that and it positioned the floor / body much better. The body must be repositioned rearward about 3mm from Pocher's location. Doing that centers the wheels in the fenders. Now I have done that: The rear fender is not in place (couldn't mock it with anything) but by holding it shows correct tire placement and the height will come down. Remember, everything seen here is just placed in position except the front fender which is bolted. From grille, hood, cowl, body and trunk, everything fits within the chassis crossmembers. Within a millimeter or so it's all fine. Nothing hits or interferes: The hood now fits near perfectly front to back and does not hit the cowl: I can now proceed with mods to make things join and assemble better than Pocher (and Koo) suggests. Nice to see most of the shootin' match hung together for a moment:

Also apparent is the yellow and black scheme...

Counting your squares on the mat it's 1/16. Diecasts are smaller 1/18.

Shoe polish-just like we did in '66 on the 1:1's.

Geeze Harry; if you put it all on the workbench (dining room table?) it would save you a lot of trips. Then it would be a snap for you to finish it. :lol:

A 'Eureka!' moment---maybe. So the thickness of the spacer glued atop the chassis rail is this thickness, marked with silver stripe, running the length of the side panel, just beneath the door opening: In this case it's 2mm. And seen here with the floorboard in place on the body side: Simple matter to screw (or glue?) the body side to the fixed-in-place floorboard on the chassis-with chassis inverted. Am I warm??? If true, I gotta wood the bottom and paint the side of the floor soon; the chilly weather is upon me here. Soon no painting. I'll wait to carpet the floor until I get all the other geometry straight but it's an exciting thought.....

Great explanation. Only question; can you give me Elvira's phone number?

:wub: You give me too much credit for figurin' things.........

Harry, I never doubt you. You can make a monkey's arse look like the Mona Lisa. Know what I use for a dehydrator for 'big boy' Rolls parts? My Optima sedan, parked in the sunny driveway. Cabin gets to 105 nicely...

Here's embossing powder from Michaels. It's actually that brown-I didn't paint it but you can: EDIT: This is also 1/16 scale.

First off-bring back Debbie; the best of the Harrys. Next-sincere appreciation for the time you took and sharing your methods. Every thing you showed is clear and much as I envisioned. The roof removal and body flanges I'm good with (though still scared / skeptical about scribing it off). I was actually thinking of the cut being lower, on the body reveal line which has less curvature. I think it could still be flanged there too. But then I would have to paint the reveal part attached to the roof, then cover with fabric. Dunno... The masterpiece is the flanging of the cowl. I just had a mental block how to screw that together upside down when finished and was blanked about it. Your idea makes it so easy to attach the finished unit (with dash) that it's obvious. I just couldn't see it. Often the brilliance is the simplest. Observation: your interior panel broke exactly where mine did. Thanks brittle plastic. Yes I was gonna scrap all the screws and glue finished parts in. I will only use the screws for mocking the panels together for fitment. The assembly sequence is sound. I only have two questions to try your patience. Hopefully a sentence or two will suffice. What was the method for attaching the floorboard to chassis? What method to attach body sides to floorboard? Did you use the screws and washers? I didn't understand your earlier statement about 'spacers.' I'm still deburring and trimming all the individual parts. I am glad I studded the roof and it comes apart easily. Thanks Harry.

Excellent work. How did you do the stocking? It's most lifelike; the color, sheen and lace pattern-that's really good work. What materials and methods?

Mike that is really nice of you. The support feels really good. I really hope I bring this to a successful conclusion for interested viewers as well as myself. Now with Harry's help, that's a better possibility. Thanks,

I just put an 8 x 10 portrait of you on my night table.....

Are you sure you want to watch this whole horror? I tried Harry, I tried.............

Thank you guys. Pretty straightforward.

Interesting question. I've seen builds of the new Lambo and the word is that the fit and fasteners are all improved and very good. It is surprising light on detail however, especially visible engine parts and plumbing. In light of that, owners said it's somewhat a disappointment considering the lofty price. Some use the term 'a big diecast'. The real test will be if Hornby makes a 'classic' instead of contemporary.

What's the most effective way to remove brake fluid from the stripped part? What neutralizes the fluid and leaves no trace? I'm concerned about getting new paint to adhere. Thanks for your most effective solution.

I would never believe you started with an Airfix Bentley. Magnificent.