Cato

Great idea.

Make stretched sprue, thin thread or paint on - just be subtle:

Yes, paint each pipe, weather them and join. Don't forget the weld beads at each curved section. The pipes will be darker near the collector ends; lighter where the hottest, at ports and bends. That anti-roll bar under the headers is totally bogus. I made new trailing arms and a/ r bar from .075" coat hanger wire. Make simple heim joint connectors from styrene.

Pay particular attention to the rear clip sides where they meet the side tanks - there will be a gap. Also where the rear clip fastens over the roof pin. You'll need to thin that part of the clip a bit to get it flush. To do all that, you'll need the chassis and interior tubs in place because it changes where these places contact. Just fitting doors and body panels like you're doing is the way to give yourself fits. Once you get this all perfect, it changes with even the thinnest coats of paint. Keep trial fitting and adjusting throughout. Don't open the box and paint the body first if you want a serious model. We'll get into lowering the front when you get there. Didn't say it would be easy....

Sorry-NOT a kit but the best GT I've seen in any scale; the diecast Exoto 1/10 scale. Superior to the 1/12 GMPs. I considered 'accurizing' the finishes with use and patina but decided to keep it valuable. I used mine for reference when building my Trump GT:

Certainly true Rick. But a small nit to pick for the best 1/12 replica kit we got these days. And most of us who've built one corrected many of Trump's flaws. All your SPF LHD replicas are nice cars but have similar small compromises to 1966.

Because the government was doing the project management. By '71, emissions gave us 9.5:1 compressions, air pumps and serious performance losses. Also, the (comparatively) light chassis (think original 'taxicab' Road Runner) of the '60's were replaced by barges like the Charger as performance leaders.

Everybody's taking this literally-which is technically true. But my earlier post means the corporate excellence in engineering died in '69 - not whose name went on the door. Nothing but pure junk and relentless pick up trucks since the Hemi years up to '69. And yes there's a 'new' Hemi now which only an Eaton blower made serious. But it goes into overweight blobs, sedans and P / U's.

Harry, 'Chrysler' hasn't been Chrysler since 1969.

Thanks for clearing that up JW. After I lettered Ivo's Rainbow car in '68; marriage / racing / career / models / 1/4 scale RC AC / Cobra replica (3 decades) / models / my Pocher Sedanca / lost vision / shakes... Still have my Beugler (never used) and some Daggers. Wish I could run some lines but now I paint cartoon characters for my grandkids - and that kicks my arse..

Great info JW. I used to stripe race and street cars in the '60's and One Shot was it. Last year, I read on a striper's site that One Shot changed the formula some years ago and the 'new' has less coverage than the 'old'. Is that your experience?

A great job Vern. Patina and weathering is my 'forte' and you have a beautiful subtle touch. I remember those hard fuel lines with sharp angles and junction blocks very well on the little Rochesters. I had a 396 / 375 which looked identical to yours except for an 825 Holley. A nit to pick-and not your doing; the carb stud was a 1/4 - 20 all thread with that wingnut. The kit part looks thicker. Is that a Lincoln kit? The shielded plug wires are a great touch and very 'real'; are those kit-supplied or did you make them?

Will you go with the kit wire wheels again? I know-it's easier...

Scott, Here's some workstand ideas. Custom make them and you're actually saving time and effort. The Rolls stands came from the bright guys at Model Motorcars: A plastic magazine rack can work too if you're lucky for fit. I did much of the engine and rear suspension on this and it's much easier than flipping it top to bottom all the time: Works right side up or down:

Work stand is excellent idea. I make mine from foamcore board.. Show you when I have time.

Thanks Tim. All the support is heartwarming.

Beautiful Harry. Great finish choices. Wish I could build Pocher classics as well and as fast as you build these...

Thank you Curtis; I see what it claims but wondered if anyone has actually tried CA in it. My experience with the CA containers is that they get solid if left uncovered even a few minutes on the bench. I fear that thin needle tip will do the same.

Will it work with thin CA or clog the tip?

Thanks Dude and also to you. Harry's the real Pocher expert here (2 Alfas, Benz, Sedanca and a pending Torpedo / Shooting Brake). I'm sure he'll weigh in on your thread as I will as my situation allows. You are not alone.

Thanks to all for the good wishes and best holidays for all. C.

To my forum friends, A serious health situation has been discovered and my wife's health has been affected. Just today we received some very encouraging news but we have a ways to go with hospitalization and recovery(s). We're not out of woods yet but live in new hope. I want you to know that my work on the project will continue as the situation (hopefully) improves and I will continue to update this thread. I will also continue to peek at the forum to divert from the recent stress overload. Your great work on display is a good tonic for me. Thanks to all who care and supported my work.

This plus Tammy tape.

Great. Be advised, Model Motor Cars has an extensive line of Alfa upgrade parts. Especially consider the bronze axle and PE springs for structural strength. Bring your wallet.

Which are you trying to acquire? If you get them, post a new thread here so we can follow, help and enjoy.