Cato

No chatting just some major progress-spread over 3 posts. MMC's great workstands allow you to just flip the chassis over to work on or photo either side. These shots are mixed top and bottom. This thing is hard to photo overall so mostly detail shots. http:// http:// http://

Thanks Mark. Your point is well taken. If I had machining skills, a full shop and a wider range of scale experience, I'd do what you and Dave do-because I'm an anal fusspot. As it is, a lot of my 1:1 experience is being called for and it's getting me through the rough spots. Some times, I have too much patience and fumbling with wonky eye sight, the fidgets and less-than 2mm fasteners adds another unhappy dimension. I'm throwing everything I've got into this one and it won't be enough for a 'stunning' model. But I'd be happy with neat, square and pleasing to the eye with adequate visual detail interest. As Harry said, un-doing a Pocher 'blacksmith' project is what they're all about. That problem solving is rewarding when it goes right. But at great cost of human life............

Thanks for your support Skip but you could do it just as easily as me-but it does require a change of mindset. And though this is satisfying when you finally get something right-the guys like Dave Smith (Comp) get my total admiration. I'm just an 'assembler'-I consider him a true 'builder'. He works from raw materials and drawings; I'm working with parts that need persuading and TLC.

IMPORTANT NOTE: To anyone contemplating this Rolls kit and using MMC PE leafspring kit and their cast bronze clevises; you should know the following. The intermediate and rear brake rods (2mm threaded-end brass) MUST be trimmed so that the clevises are nearly flush to the brass rod, with no threads showing. Shortening the rods this way is the only way to get the rear rods to not bind and clear the gas tank. The rods as Pocher supplies them work fine with the Pocher clevises which are not scale, flat sheet metal. Those clevises will thread all the way onto the rods but the MMC's are shallow blind tapped. MMC does not tell you this with the parts. I found out only after attempting to complete the axle installation and finding I didn't have enough room for the rods and levers. I managed to disassemble only the intermediate rods, shorten them and reinstall. Could have been worse. Any of you with questions, contact me for more detailed help. This is not a knock on MMC's parts. I'm sure professionals and experienced Pocher builders using these parts know this. I'm learning the hard way but it is satisfying solving big problems. Now, where is that touch-up paint??

Great info-thanks Martin.

It's X-21 acrylic. Anyone familiar how to use this? I've tried adding to gloss and semi acrylics to mute them but just get chalky white residue. Apparently it's very critical as to percent of mix. But I haven't found the answer. Can't find anything on line about it's use either.

Thanks but all the credit goes to Marvin and his boys.

Have been working steadily even though not posting. I'll have better pictures when I can actually spread stuff out, like on the kitchen island. I'm cramped badly in here. TIP: Do not work when you're tired. You misplace things and no matter how many times you consult reference, you can assemble things wrong or in the wrong order. Case in point; showing the PE leaf spring set. Started 3 days ago thinking I'd have the rear hung in the chassis that day. Uh-uh. VERY tedious separating the PE parts from their fret. This stuff is stainless and .021" thick. Not like comes in a detail set for smaller cars. Nine leaves per side,four different sizes of shackles, 23 retainers and 46, 2mm, 00-90 (across the flat) nuts. Here's MMC's instruction: http:// Holding the tiny parts in place is best with a hemostat; they all want to slide around on each other: http:// Here's what it's supposed to look like. Those 00-90 threads are so thin, you have to gently crush them for the nuts to actually bite and thread. Then CA them when in place. In fact, I decided to CA the shackles to the leaves to prevent movement: http:// OK so you do all that and you're ready to bolt them to the axle with 4 U clamps and nuts. Uh-oh......remember being tired?? In my stupor, I apparently mounted the top leaf (with the curls for hanging) up-side-freakin' down on one spring. Go to sleep, get up and disassemble almost 2 hours worth of work, to invert the leaf correctly. THEN, go to mount it onto the spring hangers on the axle only to discover that Pocher's spacing is narrower than MMC's for the u-clamps. An hour with a hot wire to 'slot' the 2 rearmost holes and get the bolts in. I HATE working on finished parts, especially with heat. But I got away with no damage. Here's it is all nicey nicey, and ready to go into the chassis. I'm hoping that goes better today: http://

Of course it's magnificent work Dave-but-what besides the tires might you have done differently or 'better'? I always look back on my past work and say, 'yeah, I should / could have done such and such...'

I understand completely-but from the opposite end of the spectrum. Working on a 26" long model of some considerable weight is like trying to put eye make-up on a medium sized crocodile. It's mass makes it want to roll out of your hands, clamps or jigs. Plus you've got to not hurt parts you've already attached. These are all things you never consider until they're in your hands.

Spindley and cute. Great job. Now 1/8 scale???

Magnificent as always Karsten. The fabric is stunning. Say 'hello' to Michael for me.

Harry-Is the white styrene rod drilled for the brass rods?

Oh no? Laugh this off-

A remarkable model of a pile of carp '47 Ford copy...amazing.

Epoxy cures...

BEAUTIFUL shot Harry. Will you take my first-born for your references?? That ham shows ribbing-I thought the pumpkin was smooth cast-iron, and I finished it as such. Is that a P II?? Maybe talc for the fine dust seen here??

Probably not Skip. I know I'm getting away from accuracy but as I told Rick, I'm nuts about the stainless springs and it's a detail I'd like to see over time. No leather or shrink tube gators as Marvin sends with the springs. I'm just now using Mother's polish on them (using gloves) to get the oils off and preserve them. Next I'll tie them with floss and then add the shackles and 00-90 nuts to make them a unit. All aiming to get them onto the axle and then the chassis-exciting big construction instead of prep.

As promised the new gas fill pipe: http:// The Model Motorcars stainless rear leaf spring mocked-together. There are 9 leaves and each square is one inch. They're about as long as some 1/25 models: http://

Beautiful and simple. I have been using lead foil for similar brackets and it works well too, You apparently have really good reference photos, Harry.

K-tomorrow....but it's just ugly black plastic.

I use small balsa wedges as chocks painted nato black-can't see 'em.

Great job-I know what you mean with blacks and details...

Problem (largely) solved. By sheer luck I found a hunk of sprue like a tree trunk originally used to hold the two frame rails together. I took the trunk box and rear fender out and mocked them in place. Then, using a Dremel drum, I got the sprue to a near round cross section, eyeballed the fit and marked for the bend. A minute over the stove flame, a quick bend and then cool down. Then I guessed at an approximate length for the free end and cut to size. Made a seat for the steel gas cap and it's not half bad. A little Hull red and I think it'll pass.

Yeah, been thinking along those lines, thick wiring, pen and markers bodies, similar objects. Hunt will go on while while I do science experiments. Ironic-I haven't lost a single 2mm nut, 00-90 or any tiny hardware! I remember that old saying-'What doesn't kill you, pisses you off!'.