Cato

A little R & D for the Sedanca top you crafty devil? Great idea and looks the part in paint. In 1/8 scale, you can use the actual fabric you desire.

"more and more I notice that mold lines need to be removed where they will be seen-tedious task but worth it." A perfect example is the dampers, seen in an earlier photo. The parting line ran vertically through the piece. The tedious part about removing it was the undulating surfaces and nooks and crannies. Had to use round, tapered riffler files about 1/8" diameter. .

Roger that,

Wow-the gloss black on all your cars is outstanding. I know the high gloss comes from the dehydrator but the color seems a mile deep-what brand and type is it?

Ohhhh stop---that will be 'childs play' for you............................

Thanks. Can't say enough about the quality of their stuff.

Oh, and, Harry Reasoner was one of my faves for decades. A true class guy.

I thought I did that with the Alfa-but that was childs play, even with 6 wheels. Yeah, if get what I want, it will feel really good to just look at it in future. And no more 'childs play' builds; think I'm near the limit of my game. Remember, I did this 1:1 with the Cobra for 27years..

A Pocher is definitely a bit out of the comfort zone in some ways for me. But it is stretching my skill set a bit too. Here is one of the clevises which connect the brake rods to their brackets. At the top is seen one of the blacksmith stamped clevises supplied by Pocher and on the scale is the threaded, cast bronze piece from model Motorcars with its supplied 0-90 bolt. The kit clevis is 2-56; much larger. http://http:// A more relaxing hobby than building this would be juggling running chain saws with the light out. But if I get this the way I can visualize it, it'll have been worth it.

DUH!-forgot all about McMaster! Thanks for reminding me Dave.

Thanks Erik. I AM trying to walk the line between visual interest and 'clown car' different colors everywhere. I think just varying the gloss levels from flat up to gloss is a subtle trick that will help. I'm finding there are some parts, which I'd like to subdue with color, -I can't. Much of the rod and clevis linkage is like that. So is the leaf spring hardware. I am planning to leave the leaf springs in their PE stainless finish, just because they're beautiful and painting or the shrink-tube gaters would make them visually 'go away'. Because you must constantly touch those surfaces to assemble and adjust them, then install them in cramped places, finishing them in color would be wasteful because you'd chip and scratch them. So they will kind of 'jump-out' more than I'd like. I've toyed with the idea of using satin finish coach colors-like Frank and Rick use on their early cars. But I always return to the perfect-paint, high gloss idea. Actually the enamel look of the thirties (but using lacquers), not the kustom kar kolors and finishes of the modern era. Don't want over-restored look. Another Pocher reality of life; every single threaded rod, bolt and bracket must have burrs cleaned and holes enlarged BEFORE final assembly. Nothing fits right first time. Having a 2-56 tap and die would be great and I've got to try to find one. You must test-fit whole assemblies before final finish or assembly-or you'll do it over again. Plan and fit EVERYTHING 10 steps ahead. Makes for a very intense planning and building experience.

Harry-did you scroll below the text??

Dunno-Rick obviously did. Me too......

Hope you have patience...

Here is the mostly assembled main chassis. Not everyone's cup of tea but I chose not to finish it in the 'black-everything' that many originals wear. Also didn't want the blinding gloss of over-restored cars. So I shot German gray with satin clear for a low-luster finish. I like it with the Hull red tank and it will not clash with my coach colors. The dampers are a blend of Titan gold, Smoke, IJN gray and Jet exhaust, all washed together. The rears can be seen tucked into the frame rail near the rear kick-up. They screw on from the outside and will have to be removed for the levers and axle installation. The tail pipe (seen tied in place with my dental floss trick) is Gunmetal, lightly polished and will be washed with light rust and 'heated' sand colors. It's one of those parts that you have to finish and hold in place because you can't get it on the rear crossmember and snake under the gas tank. The complete exhaust system is done and finished but doesn't get hung until the levers and axle are in. Next in the assembly sequence (of final-finished parts) are the brake and shift rods and then the tank and rear axle. Haven't started the axle yet but a lot of junk gets attached to it including the rear leaf springs. http:// http://

I knew you did! And you know, I didn't make the battery cables, the 1000 chassis oil lines and the fuel lines. So I'm not completely nuts -that would be expected for a chassis-only model. Which I love by the way..........

I asked that and that's a great depiction of it.

Rick-the "English' I am using is not what is commonly heard in the UK. More like the South Bronx... Harry-no illusions about operable parts. I built the Alfa remember? I built the brake guts but no springs so no workie shoes. On this, no working brakes or engine guts, just the crank to get pulley and trans positions accurate. And Marvin shared that magnets are best for the doors, not the supplied latches. I never wanted steering from the wheel, just based on weight and the wonky nut you mention. Well, like you, I'LL know the gas tank's filled, and so will my viewers when I mount this thing on a mirror. I went for those clevises, not for mechanical improvement, but simply because they look so nice and real. They'll also see the hypoid oil sweat on the rear, some grease around the joints, a wet join between block and pan and a little heat use on the exhaust. My starting goal was an older restoration that gets driven regularly. I've seen countless reference pics of these with 'over restored' coach work and pig black bottoms with splash everywhere. I want to strike a middle ground and hope to show that everywhere on the car. I'm probably not good enough to accomplish that...

And a bit more that didn't fit: Finally, the beautiful Model Motorcars tires; the question came up about support for the weight. Here's a poor shot of the inner 'spine' of solid rubber and the thin, scale, flexible sidewalls. http:// Snaps of the chassis assembly soon. Again to any contemplating one; Get plenty of reference, Paul Koo's disc is invaluable, Model Motor Cars' part are beautiful and they are extremely helpful with any questions and parts.

A little update. Been working steadily and the key with this one is you have to build (and paint as you go) small subassemblies that you'll need to put in place before you can 'close them in' with the larger assembly. I've actually painted and assembled the main chassis so I'm ahead of what you see here. But it has been tedious. I keep telling myself the fun is coming. The gas tank seen previously in half with weights epoxied in is now joined, seams filled and rivets reappearing: http:// And finished in Hull Red and satin finish: Some Pocher sadness; The steering gearbox must be attached to the frame before the engine goes in so assemble now. HOWEVER, the early kit I have has a rusty worm gear and a crappy nylon pinion gear. After trying hard to file. cut and hack, they continued to bind and not mesh. A call to Marvin at Model Motorcars confirmed that this is common and none of the cars they build have working steering from the wheel-just posable-which is fine by me. I found you must shave the nylon teeth off and position it on the cross shaft or else that shaft will fall out of the steering box. Presto; everything free and easy after that: http:// http:// Another 'ahead of the curve' thing; how do you paint a 25" long object on 4 sides without thumbprints?? I made a jig out of 1/16" rod inserted into 1/8" tube and inserted the small rod into two screw holes in the frame, all stuck into styrofoam. Don't tell the Mrs... http://

Meticulous work Rick. You're making art. Admittedly, I'm a butcher compared to you, but some thoughts about curving the wood. Don't cringe... When building 1/4 scale flying R/C, I remember spraying isopropyl on sections or strips of balsa and pinning the circumference against a form (using wax paper on the plans to mimic the shape). Then fine sanding to get the 'hair' off the surface. Also remember kerfing the piece but I understand your reluctance to that in this case due to age and rarity. See? Told you I'm a butcher...

What was the result of the Pocher RR you bid for on the 'bay??

Ah---the guy's an alien from the neatest planet in the system...

Good question Joe-glad someone actually read some of this thread! I have the Model Motorcars tires and will post a pic soon when I update progress. They are wonderful-a pliable but firm rubber and the sidewall edges are thin to be in scale. But there is a sold rubber 'spine' molded in. It will directly support the weight. I didn't go as far as I might to add weight. Rick was right-it gets big as you add assemblies. Rick's tip is good-stuffing tires helps over time. I've used dense foam (Trump GT-40) and cotton balls in Tammy 1/12 F-1 and Posche 935. Just use a material that won't break-down over time.

Cripes-your JIGS are better than my finished MODELS! ...and why is there never a crumb of sanding schmutz on your bench??? You're from another planet-right??