Cato

An old friend of mine is Micro-Balloons filler, from my RC flying days. Finer than talc it's seen here on the leaf spring mount on the chassis. I fill the gap with a neat bead of CA, then sprinkle on some MB (it's ultra fine and doesn't take much. In a minute it's cured and I shake off the excess, and file and sand (easily) to a neat, strong fillet. The 'X' marks a sink in the plastic to be filled soon with Bondo-there are a few such places: http:// http:// The gas tank is one of those compromised areas Pocher left that I didn't want to live with. It's big, noticeable and comes in two halves. I didn't want the seam. So I beveled and trued the edges, and made two side templates. I did so because it would be difficult to sand filler inside those flanges. Using tape then cutting .005 styrene, gives me nice flat tank sides. I joined the halves with liquid glue and clamped overnight. The bevels make it easy to get a nice Bondo fill on the seams with feathered edges, Just before closing however, I epoxied-in 3, 7/16" bolts to the tank bottom. I like adding weight as I've said earlier and weight, low and back here, helps balance the natural weight of the engine up front. Might even add some sand to the oil pan. Makes for a nice 'planted' model-not so 'fragile' feeling. http:// Finally, here the 'sprue farm' of crossmembers and exhaust pipes after priming with Tamiya rattle can gray: http:// Questions or comments welcomed.

The deeper I get into this thing, the more I realize there are some basic things about Pochers which first or second-timers (like me) should understand. It would help to make a decision to go or no-go on a project of this complexity. Pocher has NOT done a bolt-by-bolt presentation of the subject. All the major shapes and assemblies are beautifully done, but for the sake of engineering, they generalized some of the way parts are fastened or mounted. Mostly in unseen or hard to see areas when it's all on its feet. Examples of this are the hanger brackets, the crossmember into the frame rails, the plumbing and wiring. Being a detail freak I soon realized you should choose your path first. Those wanting a perfect replica of the chassis, should build a chassis only model (with engine) so the coach does not obscure all the scratchbuilt stuff you added. And you'd need extensive research for that-but it's out there for the most part. I have seen some chassis-only models which are mind-bending and regretted I'm nowhere near that skill level. So I chose a modified path- adding improved visual details where you can see it with a closed model. Model Motorcars is my choice for those aftermarket parts. A mirror on the model base will adequately display your extra work. Among the parts I'm adding are; PE stainless leaf springs and hangers, their new improved tires, steering and brake arms, levers, and clevises, Also some nuts and bolts for the details and spares. I've decided on building the stock Pocher wheels instead of buying the new wires from MM-although they are also beautiful. I made the decision to have painted wires and the multi-part Pocher wheels look much better (IMO) than left bright. Also saves $200 that way. So I guess I'm saying you've got to stay a few steps ahead of the process and study everything out there on these cars-to avoid unexpected disappointments and expensive mistakes. Plan carefully what you want your final car to look like long before you pick up the tools (and you'll need a ton of those too) paint and glue. On to the photos of the meager progress. But it's going faster with better painting weather. The plastic is thick and somewhat brittle after 30+ years. Thankfully I've seen no warps so far and got a sturdy, square chassis in mock-up. I'm using a Dremel wheel, sprue cutters and mostly sanding with 50 grit Emory (believe it or not) and 220 for the clean up. That's all fine for the chassis but not the gleaming parts to come later. Unless you've built a few of these, don't tackle your first without Paul Koo's lifesaving build CD. Jus' sayin'... These are examples of the endless flash, stubs, sinks and holes that need expanding or you break screws. They take a long time to get prepped: http:// More in the next post.

I got one of those-I mean the Big Boy '34...

Harry-what's the decision on the monocle? Make it a '34 and I'll vacuum your workshop for a year............

Contact John Teresi on here. He makes beautiful chute hook-ups and if he wants to he can help you.

I think I would do the monocle. It's yet another subtle visual detail which is a hallmark of all your builds. You have 'good building taste' as to how much is too much.

No flashy pictures to show like that show-off Harry ( ) but some substantial progress today. Namely a large and expensive order at Model Motorcars for their jewel-like upgrades. It's easy to go nuts on their website but I did use some restraint. Should be here early next week. In the meantime, more boring clean-up and fitting stuff. And a couple of hours making glued-on 'feet' from sprue to start priming and painting chassis parts. Looks like a forest of crossmembers and exhaust parts stuck in styrofoam. Haven't figured the system for the 25" long chassis rails yet but wheels are turning.. Hoping the garage will get toasty with weather in the 40's tomorrow. You really must plan ahead and be flexible with your thinking with a Pocher like this. I surmise the Benz would be even more of a cluster-flub. I bow to you that have built them....

...except it's not useful .

If they took 500 pounds of pork out of it that would yield far better lap times than 2 deg of coolant. But then they'd have to charge ONE HUNDRED 75K-for less car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hey let me rush right out and buy one-only got to spend $75K to get this engineering marvel! 2 degrees on track equates to nothing in lap times or longevity. Same guy designed this as the Popeil Pocket Fisherman. In '67 we were ducting intake air through the inner headlight buckets or riveted-on scoops under the bumper. For coolant we bought a Stewart high flow water pump and took the emblems off.

Golden info for builders-thanks for sharing Harry. Do drop in with tips, criticism and general RR discussion as time permits. Photos always welcome.

Great Harry-thanks. Now to some questions: You picked a beautiful, simple (relatively) style for your functional seats. I am eyeing the seats in my 1/12 Cord for the style and then fab them in balsa in 1/8. You covered over the foam in vinyl but have no 'pulls' at the corners of the squabs-great job. Was it difficult when you pulled it tight? You put acrylic craft paint (sprayed) onto the store vinyl-how was the adhesion and did you prep it any special way? Assume you would not have done that if the material came in your correct color. The piping is a fantastic find-did you use 'Bondini' to apply it? The carpet-can you post a snap of it? I'm wondering if my wife can bind the edges on her machine. If not, I don't know how to get the 'real' bound edge... I hope I can find these materials at Michaels as we have no HL out here.

Fantastic result-worth all the effort. I built this as a Hubley 100 years ago and loved the finished product. I did a black with maroon in the cove 2 tone. But I had no skills to improve those wheels. They 'make' the car. Please post the whole build.

F/R verified by scaling.

The Panoz road and race cars were situated in similar fashion. Maybe a few more but can't remember off hand. Several like the Cobra have engines set well back from front axle centerline but not amidships. My car's weight distribution is 48 / 52 wet and 47 / 53 w/ driver.

Pretty please Harry??

Great work and a lot of it Frank.

I understand the passion for the smaller stuff you guys have-it's beautiful and everything Rick says is true. In my case however, I'm just not a prolific builder like you guys - and especially Harry-are. In fact, this might be the last replica of any scale (and certainly no more 1:1) that I'm able to do. But I am throwing everything I've got at it, enjoying it and planning up a storm. When done, (it, not me) I'll build my last glass case and a table to present it on, where I can see it everyday. That's my wish and goal.

Halleluya!!!!! I finally got your Pocher motor runnin'! Your right-don't disrupt Skip's project with 1/8 scale. Put this post in my Sedanca thread-this way any interested parties will have all Pocher Rolls info in one place. Makes sense, right Har?? Your seats are off the charts and I have a lot to say and ask-please relocate this...

Then send it here so I can at least steal--err-observe your ideas.

Good from a modeling standpoint but a terrible 1:1 idea. About 200 pounds more than a 377SBC and 100 more than a427BBC. These are a real 'death ride'-moreso than a Cobra even. Blazing heat, deafening inside, and snap rolls like an aerobatic champ. You needed big ones to get decent and consistent lap times out of it.

WELL GET IT UP HERE!! Been thinking about a gray chassis. And a little like my GT-40, things like oxidized exhaust system, light stains at the gaskets, your patented black washes ( ) and a few other discrete touches that show a bit of age and use. Like an occasionally driven, older restoration... Hey-at least it's not blue with white stripes like my Cobra!!

Leaning that way with two tone. Finding the right combo (for me) is devilish. Keep coming back to deep maroon with soft cream or yellow. I think there was a GM color in the '50's or '60's called butternut yellow or something similar. My memory is toast... Also get flashes of all black as Frank suggests but with wheels to match a tan or cream interior.

Yeah-I forgot your patented Barcalounger chairs......

What-no air in the tires? oil in crankcase? stuffing in seats?? You are getting to be a SLACKER...