Cato

Well, you're partially right. Early on, when I was just trying to 'assemble a model' it was frustrating. That led me to seek better ways than given to do things. After a while I realized 'why should I stick to a stock model?; I've had to improve and change so much anyway?' MMC suspension,cutting, resizing and coachbuilding followed. THAT led to 'I don't like these doors or seats; I'll make my own !' Now I'm casting a critical eye on the hoods; Lawd knows where this will lead..........

Great - now on to the POCHERS....

Thanks all, very kind of you. Some property maintenance projects in the works, but while the frames are out for chrome (couple of weeks) I'll get the second interior panel done, preparatory to making each door a complete unit. Then body off for paint prep - at last!

Harry, this may be useful to solve the chain question. I can't get the ebay link to post here but search ' Fusee chain'. It's a common watchmakers / repair part and comes in different sizes.

What is the length overall of this Harry? I keep picturing it in 1/8 next to the Pocher '07 FIAT...

I disagree. You have an undeniable way of covering the whole presentation with layers of detail. I have to exert a lot of complex effort to match that. I envy and admire that you have the knack for simpler but equally effective stuff to make a real feast for the eye. And you're miles faster than me...

How about K & S copper tubing for the intake? Like you always say - 'nothing looks like real wood than....'

Looks great. Is that all kit-supplied or did you scratch some?

Small but important... Another long-dreaded task out of the way. After the ordeal (for me) of making the brass side window frames months ago, I finally got them polished. This is required for chrome plating. Since paint hides nothing, chrome hides even less. So the tedious work of sanding file marks and scratches out of the 3/32 square brass channel . Not perfect but the best I could do. When they come back, the Lexan 'glass' will be cut and installed and the door inner and outer panels joined for final time. The various notches and flat strips are for clearance of the latch mechanism and to stabilize the fragile corner solder joins.

Here you go Harry. Other builders of this car have used them to great effect. Dunno what size tho ... http://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html

Italeri obviously hired some very old, senile Pocher chassis design guys...

Great help and chemistry lesson too! Thanks all...

I regularly use Tamiya Extra Thin and Flexifile, am familiar with Weld-On, which are all about the same (being MEK); good for capillary joining and very fast. But I'd like to know if there's a similar cement which has some more working time and is a bit thicker. I'm not talking about Ambroid or tube glues (too thick) and not talking CA's. That's another whole topic. Anything available that fits my description?

Before you commit, consider Trumpeter's MK II. Twice as big as you're considering and with good reference and some improvements you can build a great model:

As a graphic designer, I bet you have to laugh at my visual aid's crude 'paint' arrows, text and thingies Harry??

Moving along... It may look just like what you've been suffering through with the passenger door but now the hard part of the driver door is complete. Fitted, hinged and latched. If you scratch build any parts and need to duplicate them as with these doors, here's a tip I found most useful. Take a photo of the completed part and then diagram it using a simple paint program in your box. Here I dimensioned all the parts, shims and doo-hickys of the first door in its final form. Made building this other door much faster because I didn't have to guess about dimensions and thicknesses: Here are views of both doors. Note the new one looks 'cleaner' as I simplified and refined some parts. The hard parts were getting the hinge posts perfect for angle and depth, getting the sweep curves identical and matching the body lines and getting the door's vertical and horizontal contours to match the body. Note that there is no filler needed on the skin of this new door: Hung in place you can see the various channels that will support the window frame legs, retain the latch and the simple (looking) wire spring.The length of the wire, its anchor position on the door and the slight bend for tension all take a lot of fidgeting to get to play nice with each other. You want a modest tension to keep the latch bolted closed but easy enough to turn the handle a quarter turn to unlatch it. Now just remains fitting the frames, paint and inserting the handle shaft to solder to the latch cam:

Most appreciated Ed and a great reference for Harry. Great vid and I read the whole article. Duh- I should have known; being an aero engine it is 'propped' just like old bipes and such in the day. Pull though to clear the cylinders, set advance and fuel and turn the prop (which turns the crank) only here it's about a 4' pipe cranked by the restorer. Even though only 4.5 compression ratio, the internal friction from BIG parts is huge. Great fun.

Beautiful work Harry. Do you know how this was started? I see the flywheel (which looks like a modern balancer) has no ring gear and I don't see a starter.

I hear ya. But I know you're familiar with the puncture method which is why I suggested it. Just a thought but I've found good success with Krylon's white primer and was surprised by it. I'm not a gimmick fan but it's the new one called 'Colormaster' with paint + primer. Now it's NOT a scratch-filler type; it actually layout fairly thin but really smooth and has real nice nozzle action. It does build up and hide well. You might test it for your problem using multiple coats. I've also taken to laying out primer and paint cans in the hot sun for and during a paint session. Also wipe the nozzle tip with lacq thinner towel after EVERY coat. No spits anymore...

Sorry I can't answer directly from use Bill. But what about getting it and decanting it? Should work with large enough a/b nozzle (or jamb gun) no? BTW, I've taken to storing my cans (all makes / types of paint) upside down and laying on their sides during use.

What you need is a 1/12 scale Rolls Sedanca to stuff this into. THAT would be fun...

Dude - If your doc knew you were doing this to yourself he'd kick your a s s! Maybe take a rest / sabbatical until they make some progress with your treatment?? Models are supposed to be fun and therapy but not when you're playing hurt to start with...

I'm actually showing this in inverse order but you'll get the simple idea. When doing the color break on my Rolls, I mask the upper part of the curve first using Tamiya 3mm tape. 3m Fineline is also excellent for this. I then trim a swatch of foil over-size for the part but trimmed close on the curve. Then masking tape of choice to hold the foil's edge to the curve tape. Try not to get the masking tape on the primered surface or bare plastic - only on the curve tape. Fold the excess foil around the top and side edges; it will hold fine like that. Spray to your heart's content. Leave on for days if you must. Multiple coats of hot lacquer will not soften the foil like masking tape which will leave residue beneath. As will BMF if you mask with that. Can also do smaller cars and sections without wrapping around edges; just trim close to the base tape.

Thanks for not giving up David! Have started the driver door and it's going much faster than the first (3) door(s). Not FAST mind you but definitely faster...