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Everything posted by Cato
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I did some crude testing to cure enamel painted parts with heat. I don't have a dehydrator but a simple droplight with 100W bulb and a 12" tall cardboard box served the purpose. I put two styrene scraps in the box, an old door and trunklid. With the light on for an hour, the parts reached 128 degrees and the box a bit less except right near the bulb. I tested frequently using my laser heat detection gun. For a fun fact, the 100W gets to 350 degrees. The outside of the box (about 12 x 12 x 8) gets to the low 90's. Well the parts didn't deform or melt (good) but I'd like to hear what you folks with dehydrators run them at and for how long. I can always go to like 60W for 12 hours or so-just want to be safe and cure paint without warping. Thanks.
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Enamel cut with lacquer thinner
Cato replied to Cato's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Yes I understood that and that's just what I was looking for. Is that a mix of maybe 1/3 color, 1/3 thinner and 1/3 clear? -
Enamel cut with lacquer thinner
Cato replied to Cato's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Rich-very nice of you to take the time to post your snaps-much appreciated. The 55 with clear, even in this 'raw' form looks terrific. I'd like to go that way. All your spoon samples clearly (pun intended) show how the base makes a huge color difference. With clear added, the light reflections are pinpoints-very nice. Although I can, I'd rather not use a polishing kit to 12,000 on the final coat. So if I can get a color + clear topcoat to look like that, I'm a happy dude. Pat-I agree and 'got' that quite a while ago. Less paint is 'more'. My last project, my GT-40 was done in Tammy lacquer and needing no filler. I just primed, scuffed to 2000 and misted enough color to get even coverage. Masking and shooting the stripes was another adventure but the BMF masks left nearly no edge. What I had, I cut flat with 6000 but did not clear over or polish. Then I weathered the front, sides and bottoms and only the roof and hoods are as-shot color. Wanted it just like race cars were shot in the '60's- shot in the shop, put on the track and run hard. For this project I need a concours finish and am using the totally different enamel system. The clear added looks attractive and will spoon test. Differences aside, I've gotten great answers and alternatives in this thread and really appreciate all who chipped-in. This next job should be better than anything previous I've done. Thanks. -
Enamel cut with lacquer thinner
Cato replied to Cato's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I'm going into that thread to look soon-but it's got a ton of posts to wade through! It's all good though. -
Enamel cut with lacquer thinner
Cato replied to Cato's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Thanks Rich-good information. -
Enamel cut with lacquer thinner
Cato replied to Cato's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Thanks Donn. I hear you about adding clear. Will test first. -
Understood.
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Enamel cut with lacquer thinner
Cato replied to Cato's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
It does as does the other view points. You answered my critical question-how long between coats. The answer is 'no waiting'. I get it. For the record I'm using Tammy fine white primer scuffed to 3600, Testors spray enamel decanted, shooting 22 to 25psi and I'll use Clean Strip thinner. With no dehydrator, how long to dry-a week? And if I decide on clear, same method right? OR- what about adding clear (say 33%) to the color along with lacquer thinner...?? -
Enamel cut with lacquer thinner
Cato replied to Cato's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Is that a rhetorical question? Apparently it's more than just 'thinning'. It seems it lays down the enamel thinner and dries to a higher gloss than enamel reducers. It's a fact that many have had success doing it. Why should I not? -
Making a tired faded paint job
Cato replied to kurth's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I read that the aircraft guys (using acrylics) shoot their top coat and while still wet, spray isopropyl on top surfaces for a weathered, faded look. -
Enamel cut with lacquer thinner
Cato replied to Cato's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Guys, Didn't want to start a piss contest. You both gave me really good and useful info. We all have our favorite methods that work for us. If they are contrary, let's just offer both sides of the coin. The information helps everyone. In my case I appreciate getting what I ask for and try everything before I make it my method of choice. -
Making a tired faded paint job
Cato replied to kurth's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Or scuff selected areas with 3M gray pads... -
Enamel cut with lacquer thinner
Cato replied to Cato's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I didn't mean to imply that Donn 'invented' the idea. I'm shooting currently at 22psi which is giving me the right pattern. I get even coverage and flatness without any nasties. I was referring to the first color coats- a mist coat or two just to get even coverage. Then a bit more paint volume for third, glossy top coat. I shoot in my empty 2 car garage but with no booth. Never below 60 deg. or above 65% humidity. What I'm really concerned with is the amount of time between coats-especially thinned with lac thin which I've never done before. -
I know this is Donn's 'innovation' and renders great results. But can you decant spray can enamel and cut that with lacquer thinner-or is that not necessary? I know that the thinner allows the paint to flow out smoother and flatter. I'd like those qualities for high gloss without a lot of coats. If it should be cut with lacquer thinner, does that change the amount of time between coats? I currently go about 10 minutes between thin coats for coverage and a long drying period unless heated.
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Good to know-thanks.
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Great advice-thanks. I've got lots of plastic spoons and I test everything before going to the model.
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Daughter has hypos for her cat-may pinch one...
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Great technique and finish on the Ford.
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Great help from all three. I'm glad there are other loading methods that work. Micro Mark said nothing about needing the bottle-at least you guys knew to get one.
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What are your favorite 'good clear coat options' now Manuel? -Over enamel color coats that is. -and thanks for the tint guidelines.
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After receiving a new T-N-F, I open the instructions to discover that a 'plastic filler bottle' is used in the process of loading glue. That and 'Plast-I-Weld', their brand of glue, must be worked together to load the tube. When ordering, no where did I see that the filler bottle is required and nothing else came with the tube. Scam? ripoff? or am I missing something? Anyone use this successfully without the add-ons and what techniques work best?
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Good advice-thanks.
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Thanks Donn. Kinda don't trust the lacquer-over-enamel thing. I can test on spoons but I'm sure I'll go with the enamel clear now.
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Thanks-that's good to know. Must be acrylic lacquer to not eat enamel-I guess? I'm using this on a dark color and the yellowing of the enamel may not show-any experience?
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Any pros or cons to using Testors #2936 'Gloss Clear Coat' ENAMEL? (on top of enamel of course). Looking for any experiences-thanks.