Cato

Nice work Frank. You've got a good plan.

If you're fussy about fit and finish I suggest you remove all parts from trees first. Leave the prime / paint until after a thorough manicure of parts and how they fit together. You get better panel fits that way and can easily remove mold lines and ejector marks. You can test assemble with white glue and easily 'un-glue' for finish and final assembly. After the first prime session, I like to reassemble to see if paint build-up has changed any fit issue. Always go as thin as you can -with coverage-on the paint applications. Too many guys rush to a perfect paint job only to have the finished product have hoods not close or panels rubbing on other panels and that detracts from realism. Welcome to the forum.

I'm not one of those who scan to complain. Don't generalize-research. So the answer to my question is, it is forum rule to attribute a source. Your clarification is accepted. If you're embarrassed by your action then lock it.

A. Not a problem for ME with it. B. I'm not the copyright police. C. I enjoy the forum. D. NOT uptight. E. Will NOT to debate this with you. F. Well possibly Gregg and the admins may not think it petty. I have seen other boards that have stringent rules about attribution of material and the lack of same is prohibited. So I've raised the question here as to whether that is permissible or not. Does your (being a mod) doing it mean it's OK for all of us? We're supposed to follow the rules of this board and the mods / admins example of posting guidelines. Attributing also has the function of informing a reader as to the accuracy of the material according to the source. Clarifying the (rule or lack thereof) is what I'm getting at.

Me too, but my point was that I think with the new sensitivity on the web about copyright material, it should have been attributed or just a link to it provided. Especially by a mod.

Romell, What was the source of the article you posted in #1 and why did you not credit it?

Jerry, Thanks for coming over. Your contributions greatly appreciated by all of us-especially the builder. 'Chas' from Club Cobra.

You know some simple and subtle things can go a long way toward improving fidelity-even if you build simplified, 'concept' type vehicles. I've seen many a nice build 'ruined' (to my eye) by the steering wheel resting on the seat. Poor relationship of pedals / shifter / wheel. Wrong ride height. Road wheels rubbing on fenders. Overly thick surfaces like window glass, hoods, doors and wheel well edges. None of these are terribly hard to improve from a kit's limitations. Don't think you need working antennas, steering gear or wiring harnesses to present that scale feel in a miniature. And if YOU have the standards for firing-order wires, the proper research will assist you to build it that way with no more trouble than not. Shouldn't matter if judges or onlookers don't know-YOU know, and it's your standard you're satisfying.

Harry perfectly stated my plan too. I sure try but have a 'skill threshold' that prevents me from getting to the top levels. Then there's guys like Teresi, Sherman, Jones, (Harry) and about a dozen others who bring functionality to galactic levels. Those are the guys I try to learn from.

How about this in flame red over white??: http://en.wikipedia....Side-View-D.jpg I've seen asking prices between $120K and $160K...

Give us better pictures Robert (use macro)-because I think the detail for this scale is spectacular!

That is an unfortunate face--followed closely by the door 'activity'.

Wrong. All road courses are run in rain. Retract 'wusses' crack.

Jesse, Kidney beans = early Cobra. Please post your build in 'Workbench' section. Thanks.

Erik makes excellent points. Even if it's exceptional, you'd be hard pressed to recoup your build costs plus your time. And you'd have to build to a 'money' audience-like Ferrari, Rolls or exotic super cars to ask a big price. Race cars is a slim audience with vintage probably more sale-able than contemporary. That seller is not helping his cause with mediocre pictures either. You'd have to show better than that. Weather subtly whatever you do.

It's called a long-term investment Harry. Decades long... But you're right about doing the resto now. First, it would build interest over time for serious buyers. Second, if a resto had to be paid for, now is cheaper than later. But turning down a free resto-even keeping the car for another generation-man that's nuts. And who better than MB Corporate??

Tip from me: Use tan or green masking tape around the perimeter of the mask, right onto your skin. Blue tape not sticky enough. The others ain't fun to remove but certainly bearable. Dunno about full beard guys but it works on two-day old stubble. Works and lasts until the end of a paint session.

Chuck, A very perceptive and cool build. Aside from the obvious 'Hornet' body paint, the weathered details show extreme neglect but are not over-done. The dulled chrome nose, cowl rust and especially the missing chrome spear with holes visible in the metal are great touches.

OK-this "easily offended" type just got offended... Just 'cus I WAS around when Hornets were babies. I rode around in a lot of 'mouse-fur' seats in the day...

Yes, closer shots please! Beautiful build. Your photo backdrop is also great--how did you make that?

I'd like to see a new Hornet done as a Nascar racer with Daytona's sand up the sides and on the wheels. Need super-fine sand for that! That brings up another point. All the Hornets I've seen built on this site are beautifully done. 'Over-restored' would be the 1:1 term. They have flawless, bright paint that the originals never had. The 50's enamels had gloss but never the depth of our modern paints. I intentionally did the GT without color sanding and gloss (but you've got to lay down blemish-free paint to do that) , just like the 1:1's. Gives the paint a 'toned-down', functional appearance. Sometimes you want a more true to production finish and just deleting the gloss coats eliminates the need to 'add' weathering. Look at today's 1:1 street cars and the cleanest ones will have slightly dulled, brake-dusted rims, faintly brownish sidewalls, and road dust on the lower body and across the rear. Even a mild haze on the window insides. Those pigments or really careful airbrushing can achieve that subtle effect. It heightens the sense of realism for the model viewer.

Thank you Dave. When you use the MIG pigs, do you 'fix' them with a clear flat overcoat? If not, isn't the model difficult to handle? Does static cause it to lift? I used air brushed mists of Dullcote, Nato black, primer, Smoke and Jet Exhaust because I was afraid to dust the car with powder.

Yes it is. I thought about that trick but SWMBO would return it (and me!) to kit form.

Thanks Shane and Harry. I wanted it to smell like hot oil, race gas and scorched rubber...

My take on an endurance GT test mule-lot's of test miles on track: