Longbox55

Hey! A Fuchikoma! Where's the Major?

I'm going to say frankenqueen. From what I can see, there isn't any direct connection of the engine to the rearend. besides being in backwards, the engine sits so low in the chassis that there wouldn't be anywhere to run a driveshaft, and I certainly don't see any differential or transaxle up fron, either. Bet that engine is just a shell with no internals in it.

Looks good. Hey, are going to add this detail from the game?

I think the El Camino grille is a bit wide for the Lindberg Chevelle, I would have to check to be sure. I do know that the hoods do not directly interchange, as the Elky is wider by about 1/16" on each side. Another option would be to use the grille insert from the MCG '66 Chevelle detail kit. That's what i did on mine, which is also being converted into an asphault circle track car.

The Paint Shop primer works very well, doesn't craze the plastic at all. You may want to thin it a bit with some acetone, as it can come out a bit grainy when shot through an airbrush. I've been experimenting with the clear, trying it over several different primers/finishes on .010" sheet plastic to see how it reacts, as I've been told that it's "too hot" for plastic use. So far, other than the need to use a larger tip on my airbrush, I've had good results with it over Duplicolor rattle can primer, Paint shop primer, Tamiya laquer primer (white), and Testors Laquer primer as bases, and using Testors Laquer (Citron Yellow), Tamiya Laquer (Dark Maroon), and Duplicolor Spray Laquer (Dark Silver Metallic). All did well with no crazing or distortion of the sheet. The only one I saw an issue with was the cards I did using Duplicolor Self Etching primer (olive green), all 3 cards primed that way warped after the clear was applied.

It's been so long ago, but I seem to recall that it was some sort of dune buggy. Couldn't tell you who the manufacturer was, only that I beleive it was 1/32 scale and that it was molded in a dark metal flake orange. Have no idea what happened to it.

Here's the Voodoo from GTA4. I've been toying with building the "Highway Reaper" version of the Dukes, which is a take on the '69-'70 Charger. I already have the logo saved, just need to figure out what parts I need to do one. Voodoo, specifically, Elizabeta Torres' car. Dukes Highway Reaper

That's incorrect. The real reason that putting synthetic in older engines that were run on conventional "causes leaks" is that there was an oil leak there to begin with. With conventonal oil, especially around the crank sleals, there tends to be a varnish buildup that "seals" the leak to a degree. Synthetic oil tends to have a much higher detergent level that conventional, which will clean out any varnish buildup, making it seem as if the synthetic "caused" the leak.

Yeah, happened to me, too.

Actually, it's more of clearing out old stock. Hobby Lobby does this on a regular basis, especially at the end of the year. That particular HL must have a large stock of the Black Widows, as the few that are semi-local to me never seem to have them. I've picked up many a good deal hitting the Hobby Lobby clearance racks, including a Model 800 cordless Dremel kit for $26 (normally $90) as well as a Big T and Big Deuce for just under 50% off. BTW, I so far, have 2 Widows. 1 is being built as a Black Widow, after I correct the rear axle to the proper 1/2 ton pickup axle, the other is being built as an MP drag car. And yes, I have plans to pick up a few more.

And many times, they are some of the neatest subject mater you can find, too! Like Cadillacs and DeSotos.

X2 on the Bondo Professional putty.

OK, here's mine

The Nomad was a separate line from the regular wagons, with its own unique body, not much is shared with the 150 and 210 wagons aft of the cowl. You'll need to modify the roof by removing the fluting, and the doors will have to swapped with the Sedan doors, plus the side windows are different. Another alternative would be use the 210 Wagon conversion body from R&R, and jsut rework the trim. The Nomad chassis and running gear would be correct, regardless.

You're right, got the SS and Xtreme mixed up a bit. I forgot about the ZQ8 suspension, which was used on both trucks. I have seen 4 cylinder SS trucks, though, built right at the transition from the SS to the Xtreme.

This one is a conversion for the AMT kit, it even has the alignment holes in the bottom of the bed floor to match to the mounts on the AMT chassis. IIRC, the master was made using the AMT '55 for the sides.

Looks right to me, but I freely admit to not being an expert on moldmaking.

The SS S10 wasn't really an upscale vehicls, like it's Impala SS and 454 SS C1500 relatives. It was more of a dress up package (ground effects/decals) on the base model 4 cylinder S10s. Couldn't even get a V6 in it, and most of them were also manual transmission. Shame really, as it would have been far more appropriate to have it use the Syclone drivetrain, rather than the anemic 4 banger.

Lookin' good there, Nick. One suggestion, if you're looking for accuracy, swap the wheels for the wheels from the Revell '67 Chevelle. The wheels in the 'Vette kit are incorrect for a '67, they were last used on the '66. I know that lots of '67s have them, but they are aftermarket installations, not OE.

Steel welding rod from the local hardware or farm store works well, too.

Here's some pix of the Modelhaus '58/'59 long Fleetside bed. I neglected to mention that the sides, front panel, and tailgate are molded as 1 peice in my last post. It wouldn't take much to make the tailgate open if desired.

The beds are still available from Modelhaus, in both long and short lengths. They are complete beds, sides, floor, tailgate (non operable), front bed panel, taillights, and frame extensions for the long version. IIRC, they are available with and wthout the side trim. I have one of these beds, it's a very nice peice. Still need to pick up a cab to go with it. FYI, the '58 and '59 cabs from Modelhaus have fender badges for the 3200 longbed truck.

The frames are actually quite different. While true, the are both solid axle w/leaf spring front and rear, the '50 has a definite taper to the frame, where the '55 is a true parallel ladder style frame. The '50 frame also has running board brackets that the '55 doesn't have.

Here's some pix of the Willys body I polished with the Meguiar's.

Beleive it or not, the best polish for plastic I've found is Mequiare's Hot Rims Mag & Aluminum Polish. Picked up a can at the local K-Mart to use on my 1:1 truck, tried it on an original issue Moving Violation Willys pickup body which is molded in a metallic purple just to see what it would do. I was pleasantly suprized at the results. It almost looked like it was painted and cleared, the shine was that good. Only thing keeping it from looking like paint was the draft lines from the casting process.