Darin Bastedo

Ok yeah it's not as cool as having the real one, but as a kart to drive around the bigger shows in it would be so cool.

I'm neither. I'm not cheap, as I'm willing to pay a decent price for a decent product, and I can't say I'm especially frugal becuase I have more Models than I actually need, I would say I'm responsible. I never spend money needs to be used elsewhere on models. If I want something expensive I'll put off getting other stuff until I've saved up for what I want. Now that doesn't mean I wont look for ways to save if possible. I trade quite a bit, buy at swap meets where I don't pay shipping, and usually get models cheaper than online or the LHS. I have spent as much as $300 on a kit, but also have gotten $125 kits for $15.

Don't tell everyone! that's where I've been getting mine from!...lol

Here's my take on it; If you plan to buy it and never build it, it doesn't matter if it's the original shrink wrap. some guy will find that out after he buys it at your estate sale, and that is only if he doesn't keep it sealed until he shuffles off his mortal coil. If your plan is to build it, go far a cheaper un-sealed kit so you know what you are getting. Better yet go for an even cheaper incomplete kit. You get it for pennies on the dollar, and just about anything that could be missing is either in the readily available AMT '69 Chevelle kit or through the Modelhaus. When I buy these old kits I almost always replace the bumpers and grill with Modelhaus parts anyway, because they are already cleaned up and the chrome is usually smoother.

The members here voice their discontent over an obviously un-popular practice by the administration, we're told by one mod that even though he agrees that the current way the Forum is set up is confusing and poorly organized, that he's going to continue the unpopular practice because of some dogmatic adherence to a supposed rule that in practice does nothing but upset the members. Never once have I heard a single person complain about pick-up trucks clogging up the under glass or on the workbench section, yet the mods are bound and determined to move them because "there is a pick-up section". Then to really show how little the members input is valued instead of working to resolve the issue, the thread is deleted and we all are supposed to forget it happened. Did you guys notice there wasn't a single forum member that posted in favor of moving the finished pick-up posts? there presence in the Under glass topic obviously bothers nobody but the mods, and you guys are always complaining about how much you have to do here. Why not just stop moving them, it would make a lot of people happier, and apparently bother nobody, and leave you more time to deal with more pressing issues.

I never found myself wondering why I bought a model but I do have several I don't remember buying. The closest thing I've done though is for years I was buying 1/16, 1/12, and 1/8 scale kits. Eventually I had about 2 dozen of them. all of a sudden I realized that if I built them all I would have no space to display them. So I sold them. Luckily they had gone out of production so I made a handy profit.

To a certain extent there is some distortion, and that of course limits how wide you can go with this method. The further out you go the longer you must make the cut, as the plastic will stretch some but not a lot. to go wider than I show here (about 4mm) you would want a different method, but this works especially well when you need 1-2mm of clearance with a minimum amount of work.

Actually I've found the superglue to as strong if not stronger than the surrounding plastic. I've never tried mixing anything into it, so I don't know what effect it would have.

you are in luck Dan. I just happen to have an extra 1970 mustang body... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=55926

Here is a comparison between the stock and widened fenders... I always "paint" mine with sharpie before sanding. when all the black is gone it's smooth... There you have it. in less than an hour you too can have a wide body Mustang.

Dan Johnston asked "can you give us a tutorial on how you did the wide body rear?... it looks like you just cut it along the top of the Quarter panel and pulled it apart and filled it with scrap plastic... but how did you pull it apart to creat a gradual arch in the Quarter without cutting it loose from the front or rear " Here ya go Dan... Below is the project that inspired this Question. To fit the Tires I wanted on this build I decided to widen the fenders rather than Tub the chassis and have to cut up the interior and modify the suspension... Well Lucky for Dan I had an extra body laying around so I did it again but this time doing step by step photos. From start to finish, including photography it took 15 minutes. (It took longer to write about it than it did to do it!) 1. Measure. Figure out just how much wider you need this fender to be. The wider it is the longer the cut has to be this particular fender is being widened 4 scale inches. 2. Drill a Pilot hole to start the cut with the razor saw. 3. Mark your cut. If possible try not to cross door lines or other panel lines as this adds to the work later... 4. Start your cut, and try to follow your cut line as straight as possible... 5. Cut a strip of fairly thick plastic. It can be a piece of scrap body or what ever. Cut it to the widtch you are widening the body by. (in this case 4mm) Make sure it's long enough that you can do both fenders with one strip so they are symmetrical. Insert the plastic in the slit and turn it to stretch the fender... 6. You will notice that the fender opening sticks out further at the middle than the ends. To fix this slide the strip down until it is even with the front of the fender opening, then clip it off, and insert the strip again and move it to the other end of the fender opening. This is what gives the stretched fender a pleasing arch. 7. Clip off the rest of the strip, and back the hole with masking tape. 8. Fill hole with medium thick super glue (also called "gap filling") and hit it with accelerator. It should be ready to sand in seconds.

I know who you are referring too. that is one of my pet peeves too.

If you look closely on this photo, you will see that I cut a line around the top and sides of the rear window, and took a slice out of the roof. then I cut along the top of the C pillar even with the top of the side window. Then I simply slid the roof back while at the same time carefully bending the a pillars, until I got the angle I wanted. The arch of the cut along with the angle of the windshield gave me the subtle 1" chop I wanted. The rear fenders I cut along the top edge and simply put in spacers to give me the desired width. I determined that by measuring how much of the tire didn't fit in the stock fender, and widened it by that much.

I'm not going to. For what I'm doing it's close enough for me.

Here's the rear end treatment. I grafted in the buckets for the 2010 Shelby taillights, and trimmed the 1970 Mustang Taillight bezels from the rear bumper. I also added details to the valence to mimic the look of the 2010 rear bumper cover. Notice I haven't finished gluing the and filling the cuts in the bodywork. I do that so that while I'm making other mods, the flexing of the body doesn't crack the existing bodywork. now that I'm done cutting I can now finish all the joints.

Thanks George. I was trying to go really subtle with the re-styling of the car. I wanted to be able to set it on the table after it's finished and have people say, it looks sleeker, but I don't know why. I thought that since the new mustang is enhanced by the retro touches it has, that if I were to do the opposite, and incorporate the modern design language into the older design it would work also. I calculated that the one inch chop, combined with the new angle of the windshield, would give me close to the same proportion of the original roof, and keep the look the original stylists intended.

This is a project I've been wanting to do for a while, and if I get it done in Time I might enter it in the Revell Gearz Contest. It's based on the Revell/Monogram 1970 Boss 429 Mustang But I replaced the 429 Hood with the flat hood from the Boss 302 Kit. I chopped the top 1 scale inch, leaned back the windshield to the same angle as the 2010 Mustangs. The rear fenders have been widened to fit the 23" Pegasus wheels and I'm using 19" wheels up front. I swapped in the from spoiler from a 2008 Mustang Shelby GT500. and used the hood vents and rear taillights from that kit as well. The engine and firewall as well as the radiator shroud was also lifted from the 2008 Shelby GT500...

I'm building a custom speedster version. I chopped the top 2.5 scale inches and am using part of the engine cover window from a Ferrari F-50. The wheels are five spokes but I plan to use 427 Cobra style Halibrands on the final version. I haven't completely decided on the paint scheme but I'm leaning toward a Corvette style Grand Sport design. (The 60's version)

Paraphrased from Tenacious D... "this is not the greatest car chase in the world. It's a tribute."

You can have my airbrush when you pry it out of my cold dead hands. I love it!

My modeling budget comes out of my budget surplus, and always has. I spend so little on my hobby (usually $50 or less per month) that the price of gas could double without it having any effect. There are other things that I buy with te surplus that would go first, like movie tickets or the occasional meal out. I guess that the fact that the price of gas does cause prices in general to go up that I get less hobby stuff for my money, but that is marginal at best. Currently I spend about $50 dollars a week on gas. if gas were to go up another dollar I'd be spending $60. it's no real biggie for me.

I've always been partial to this one... http://youtu.be/dCW6PK8L5KQ

I have project that fits into the Revell Gearz contest, and I was wonder what you guys thought. I'm entering the "unlimited class' which Ironically is "limited" to containing 50% of the base kit. I'm using the original chassis, body (modified) suspension, interior bucket (highly modified) windows, grill bumpers, and parts of the exhaust system, out of the 1970 Mustang Boss 429. I'm using different seats, engine, hood, wheels and tires and other detail items.

I tend to retire my models when I've taken them to all my local shows, unless there is a per car rate like $5 for the first model and $1 for each additional, I'll bring along a few older ones to help the sponsoring club make a few extra bucks.

I'll let you be the judge. here is the real thing at Sebring in 1965...