Darin Bastedo

Not many people know this but I am an avid Indy Car & Formula One Fan. I've been hording open wheel racing kits since I went to my first CART race, the Kent Oil 150 at Watkins Glen 1979. The stiking young man with the bowl cut behind the rear wheel of Gordon Johncock's #20 car is me. The Car I'll be replicating is This Ferrari F189 I'll be using The Hasegawa/Protar 1/24 kit. as you can see there will be a lot of work in completing this, as only the barest of essentials were included in the kit. The first part is cleaning up the one million ejector pin marks from the about every kit piece. At least there is very little molded in detail, making it much easier to add the parts I plan to scratch build. The engine is almost toy like. I will be scratch building a new one. here's some pictures of the 1:1 engine that I will be basing my build on... I'm hoping to have this done by sept. for this year's Foothils Fall Classic.

i could use that info too. I need a half dozen of them myself

Hey Dave, why don't you try building something out of the ordinary? this cookie cutter. same old same old stuff is getting boring Just kidding it looks great, I wish I had thought of it.

I guess the forum software is java based, huh?

This is hands down the best Model Message board format out there. I like the new blog feature. this allows us to put up messages that are way off topic that might be only of interest to a few of us. the spell checker and the Text formating buttons help too. I think this will allow the forum to grow even faster than it is.

Here's how i would make it sit, I always thought woodies should have a decent amount of rake.

You might wonder what is so interesting about This Cobra. Well if you are a Ford fan any Cobra is interesting, But this one is CSX3181. If any of you have the Monogrram "427 Cobra Street" kit, The liciense plates read "CSX3181". Of course during it's life CSX3181 never looked like the car on the Monogram box. I'm fairly sure the simply randomly picked a serial number. Ironicly curiosity got the best of me and I decided to research the Cobra that goes with these plates. I didn't have to look any further than my hard drive, as a couple of years ago I had already downloaded pictures of that very car. On November 18th of 1965 CSX-3181 was invoiced to Shelby America and shipped to Los Angeles. It arrived on November 23rd 1965, 366 Days before I was born. It was originally white with a black interior It was originally not an 427 S/C, although it did come with the 427 rather than the 428. Orders were not exactly pouring in, so it sat outside the Shelby hangar at Los Angeles International Airport for several months. Work Order Number 18088 was opened in January of 1966 and finished in March. It was then sent to Archway Motors Inc. in Baltimore, Maryland for $6,398. In March of 1966 the Cobra 427 was sold to David Pyles of Marlow Heights, Maryland. After two-hundred miles of driving, it was returned as it was in need of major engine repairs. The crankshaft and bearings had been scored and the engine required a rebuilt. This task was undertaken by Archway Motors under warranty. The car then passed through a number of owners before ending up with an unknown owner who crashed CSX 3181. The crash ejected him from the car as the vehicle went into a lake. At some point after this the 427 S/C conversion took place and it began to look much like the photos here. Andre Fiejo of Michigan was the vehicles next owner. It then passed to Gregory Lonberger of Lombard, Illinois. Mr. Lonberger was mechanically inclined and performed a restoration on the vehicle bringing it back to its glory days. In 1989 the vehicle was sold for $425,000 by George Stauffer. It was later resold to David Livingston of Seattle, Washington who displayed it at the SAAC-17 in Portland, Oregon in July of 1992. At the 2006 RM Auction in Monterey, Ca CSX-3181 was offered for sale. It was estimated to sell between $450,000-$550,000. At the conclusion of the sale the vehicle had found another owner, selling for $412,500.

It will have a full roll cage, and a stripped interior

I figured I'd try out the new board format with something that ISN'T getting cast in resin. when I was a teenager I had a 1967 Mustang GT 390. It was stock but this is what I always day dreamed it was. I'm mini tubbing the rear and stretching the rear wheel wells to accomidate a set of cheater slicks. The engine will be a 427 SOHC. The idea here is a car that will be very fast, but not look as fast as it is. What do you guys think?

Seems to be affecting the automatic email sending feature. I went to my profile and unchecked the "send email notification" feature, and now I don't get the error. Hopefully this also helps Gregg find the defect too.

We don't have one planned at this point, but if there is enough demand for it, anything is possible.

Actually he did the photos, I did the models. It's kind of wierd, if it weren't for all the hoopla on the board a few months ago I would probably have never called Don, and these would have ended up as one offs in my collection. I got into a conversation with Don during the "resingate debacle" and I casually mentioned that the resin industry has gotten complacent. (How many 1969 camaro outlaw hoods do we need?) So he asked "what would you suggest we make?" these conversions are the result of that conversation. I could be wrong, but I think modelers will enjoy having some different products to choose from. I specificly chose products that didn't currently exist in other people's lines, and are current enough to be of mass interest. Just like your awesome Firebird III showcar, I think it's the resin industry's job to produce the models that the Plastic kit makers are too timid to produce. I also think that there are more than enough no-brainer projects out there that each resin caster can come out with some unique projects with out stepping on each other's toes. Projects like your Firebird III should be an inspiration for other casters to push the envelope. There will always be a market for resin staples like Pro-Mods, Funny Cars, and sedan delivery versions of every car in existance, But I believe there is also an opportunity to offer the modelers models of cars that thus far hadn't been kitted. The companies who do this will always be on the vanguard of the industry. Don is taking a big chance by investing his time and money into as yet untried products that I suggested. I appreciate Don giving these projects a chance.

I raked back the windshield to give it a more modern angle and a lower profile while still allowing the stock windshield to be used. The rear has been modified with some subtle headrest fairings. A few of you have figured it out, I've been doing Resin Masters. Here's another one. For years since I've been posting on the boards people have been saying about my builds "you should have that cast" well I'm taking that advice. for the last two months I've been working in secret but now that they are ready to be cast I can let the cat out of the bag. when They are available for sale I will let the caster make the official announcements, but I'm just happy to finally be able to show off my work. I'm hoping that the stuff I do will raise the bar for the resin industry, and at the same time sell well enough for the caster to make back some of the money he's invested, essentially to indulge me. Let me know what you think,

You guys guessed right. a formal annoucement will happen soon

I've been working on some conversions... First up, Ford GTX Roadster based on the Polar lights AMT/Johnny Lighning Ford GT Next Up a Coupe conversion on the Revell Ferrari Superamerica Kit. It allows me to build a full detail version of the 550 Coupe. (Thank you Bob Downie for trading me the Fujimi kit. This is what I used it for.) and last, a convertible version of the Revell 1968 Pontiac Firebird... What do you guys think?

when you grind the backing out of a grill or open the holes in a wheel or anything like that you always get the "Fuzzies" little hairs of plastic the seem to resist getting cut, sanded, or blown off. what are you to do? (you can see them in the grill below) to get rid of these take your favorite liquid glue, (Ambriod proweld, tenax, testors) dip a bush into it, dab off the glue until the brush is just damp with it, and bush where the "fuzzies" are. they are so small that they instantly dissolve away and you are left with clean openings in the grill

What I use is medium CA glue (super glue) and accelerator. The glue snugs into even the smallest nook and cranny, it's very strong and never shrinks. just fill the seam, spritz it with accelerator, it will dry in seconds, sand it and you are done. I used it on this build. I don't even have any other putty in the house.

It would never happen. It looks too good and makes too much sense.

OH HECK YEAH!!!! that is cool. I love the look of that.

Glad you like it Gregg. I should have more up soon.

these are what you need; Model Car Garage Billet Saturn Style Hub Caps Price $17.99 http://www.modelcargarage.com/store/pc/vie...sp?idCategory=8

Heres the long and short of it (so to speak) the standard plate size for current US & Canada Plates is 12"x6" In Microsoft Word & Works; You would open a blank document, and click on "Insert" at the toolbar at the top of the page. This will give you several options. Click on "Picture" and then "From File" then brouse to where you saved the images, and select your desired plate click on the image and in the corner of the image you will see an arrow appear as you hover the cursor above it . click and drag the image until it is the size you need it to be. you can also right click it and set the size on the image proerties tab I find it easier to do metric as 1mm = 1' in scale ( I know that it isn't exact but the remaider isn't big enough to see.) so you would size it to 12mm x 6mm If metric isn't your bag 7/8 inch by 1/4 inch will do the trick. In Adobe Photoshop; This is much easier as you simply open the file, Click "Image" on the toolbar, this opens a dropdown menu select "image size" and enter the measurements above into the hieght and width fields. Click ok and you're done. now simply print your plate and stick it to your model

There was a post asking about scale License Plates. Years ago I attenpted to market scale plates. I failed miserably. I realised that the the most successful aftermarket items are ones that go on models in progress, rather than finished models. I'm not really sure whay I hadn't thought of this before, because for the last few years these have just been sitting on my hardrive waiting for me to actually finish something. So here they are. Free to anyone who wants them. I've started posting them on my fotki. http://public.fotki.com/ashevillemodeler/m...license-plates/ So far I have 700+ plates uploaded and have many more to add. when I'm done you will be able to get a plate for anyplace in the world, including native american reservations, and diplomatic plate. I even have some dealer plates, and specialty plates. I figure no sense letting all my work go to waste just because nobody bought them. I am also working on tutorials for those who don't know how to add the text to the plates and resize them. Here are a few pointers to start with though; Ariel narrow bold is a good font for most plates and will look good. another favorite is "Licenz Plate" from acid fonts http://www.acidfonts.com/lfonts9.htm Enjoy.

The red one is a 2007 I photographed at a car show a couple of weeks agao. it's possible that they changed the emblem location in 07

Thanks Peter, I agree with you about the lighter brighter color. This is the car I hope to replicate. I'm hoping to figure out how to do the wheels too. with any luck they might make a 1/24 diecast of this that I might be able to pinch the wheels from... When I do The GT500 I might hit you up for the stripes. Yours came out great. I especially think the fit around the licence plate is perfect. You Really nailed it