Mooneyzs

Brad... Thank you my friend. Feels good to get some bench time in again. Bob... Thank you Henry... Thank you. Dave... Thank you very much. once the parts are totally cleaned up they will look even better...lol. You will Definitely have to say hi if you are at the shop. I am sure they hanger will look nice once everything is done. Mike... Thank you my friend. Ray.... Thank you. and thanks for asking about the dog. He is doing great back to his old self...lol Danno... Thank you. John... Thanks Brother. I appreciate it. Mitch... Thank you. I will have some pics up shortly to share. Hakan... Thank you. Hopefully you had a great trip to the states here. did you come out for business by chance? As Hans said too back you were able to make it to the NHRA finals. That awesome you were able to go to the Vegas Race. I was there last year or the year before. its a fun track to go to. I bet SEMA was a blast. That's one on my list I would like to go to sometime Ira... Thank you. Bill... Thank you for the kind words. It's great to have you checking in on this build. I sure am trying for the realism part that's for sure. I wish I had your talent with the machining, maybe one day. I am still saving my pennies for the lathe and mill I want

Hey guys... i apologize I haven't responded sooner. I will reply to each of you when I get home from work tonight. I have made some progress but havent gotten pics up yet because I just switched from windows XP to windows 7 on my comouter and am having issues with the camera wizard downloading my pics from my camera. Microsoft decided to change thing making it harder than they should of. Anyway i will have some more on the fuel system that I redid since I wasn'tt happy with my first shot at it.

Clay... what can I say my friend. That paint ia gorgeous. This build is just out if this world. Your talent sure shines through. I am gonna be sad when this is done becase it is such a pleasure to see your updates. Sure hope to see another 1/16th scale build from you.

I have been keeping track of the hours on my 1/16th Scale Army Vega Funny Car. first build I have really done that to. I created a spreadsheet in Excel that has the date, description and hours I log for this build. I know kind of nerdy but I wanted to see how much time I put in this when it is all said and done. Currently I am over the 1200 hour mark.... Yes I am nuts...

Brad... Hot Dang.... those graphics and decals look Freaking Killer buddy!!!! Very Nice work on them....

oh Johnny boy... put some "Junk" in that Trunk.... Awesome job on it so far. I never would of thought to cut the trunk out like that I have always scribbed the trunk or door lines with my bare metal foil scriber or the back of an Xacto blade. Nice Job Brother!!

As Aaron mentioned about the 1/16th scale funny car chassis from TDR.... TDR does have a 1/25th scale Mark Williams funny car/Altered Chassis for 21.00 as well as a 1/24th Scale Mark WIlliams chassis....$22.00. For that scale I would recommend the Frosted Ultra Detail. it is much better than the strong white & flexible material in my opinion. 1/25th Scale link: http://www.shapeways.com/model/2559234/1-25-mark-william-funny-car-or-altered-chassis.html?materialId=60 1/24th Scale Link: http://www.shapeways.com/model/2559235/1-24-mark-william-funny-car-or-altered-chassis.html?materialId=60

Jeff... Junior dragsters run 1/8th mile. They are half scale and can run a s quick at as 85 mph at 7.90 in the 1/8th mile. Now different age groups are resteicted to slower speeds and times. http://jrdragster.nhra.com

Those are some awesome rides and gonna be sweet when done. I am totally digging both of them.

Johnny boy.... It's great to see you are at it again. These are gonna be some great builds with your talent. No matter what you build... You do it well.

Ok Fellas.... I finally got some bench time in tonight and made a little progress on the fuel system. I worked a little on the fuel pump as well as adding my supply port to the fuel tank..... Something that I forgot to do when I built it way back when...lol But I have to say that I am glad I didn't do it back them because having the fuel pump in hand made me probably do it a little different. Felt good getting back to the bench and I am hoping to do some more work on it tomorrow. Here is a few progress pics.... I first started out by reworking the fuel tank and drilling a few holes for the supply port. And by a few holes I mean I started out with a small pilot hole. Then I drilled it with a 1/16" and then with a 3/32" for the size of tubing I was using. I am using a piece of aluminum tubing as well as a nut from an RB Motion A/N fitting to create my supply port on the tank: So this is a mock up of what it will basically look like. I need to glue the rod in place and then the nut in place. I will be repainting the fuel tank since the supply port was the same color as the tank: I had gotten the fuel pump mounted to the block. I had designed the fuel pump to where I could use a bolt to bolt it to the block from the center. I will still need to transfer drill the 4 mounting holes on the base for the bolt heads: Another Angle: And another view, as you can see in this pic I still need to sand the body down of the fuel pump and then reprimer it: Then I had to do a quick mock up of the line. I am using some soft aluminum rod for the supply line that I will end up adding some heat shrink to it to create the hose. I will also be adding some worm clamps at the ends by the fitting and painting the fittings blue just like they are on the car. I think I will still need to adjust the line a little bit to get everything lined up perfectly but wanted to give you the idea of what I was going for. I should show you the only reference pic I had of the line:

Scott... Thanks Brother!!. I am pretty stoked with the way it looks. I now just need to sand and primer so they will be ready for paint. I can't wait to see the Valve covers, Oil Breathers, Blower, Injector Hat and fuel pump painted....lol. Yeah I have to say that I found it very odd that all of the letters printed except a part of the H. I am debating if I need to see if they will print if I extrude them at a greater distance in the model or If I should try a different font style.

Ira... Thank you so much. Ted... Thank you its much appreciated. That verse is one if my favs. I am doing the best I can to replicate as much of the restored car as I can. I am anxious to have more done too it. I have some cool things I am hoping to work on when I get home from work today.

Brad... its great to see you at the bench with abother build. This is going to be a killer build. You are off to a great start. I love the graphics you have done for this one. Keep up the great work.

Art.... you are a true craftsman my friend. Welcome to the world of brass... that chassis is just killer and looking sweet. Thia is going to be a killer build when its done. Its great to see you back at the bench. I will be followong this one.

Bill... its great to see you back at the bench on this one. Your work is so impressive and clean. Looking forward to your next update.

Glenn... thank you on the engine... its getting there. Will be much better when I finally get more parts i. Final primer and painted... lol I am ready to start assemblying it..lol Dave... thank you my friend. I am stoked about the new parts and cant wait til they see painted to see how it all will look together. Art... Hey Brother... thank for the kind comments. Btw I need to get in touch with you. I will shoot you an email Well fellas I should hopefully have another update in a day or two for you. I am working on the plumbing for the fuel system from the fuel tank to the fuel pump. Some minor details I am reworking on the fuel tank.... basically have to add a supply port and then getting the line and fittints to the fuel pump. Also getting the fuel pump sanded for final primer and paint. I did get the pump mounted to the engine block and so far ai am pretty happy with it.

Brad.... This continues to get better and better... Loving the progress your making. Nice work. Keep at it and looking forward to your next update already.

Mitch.... You are welcome. The 3d printing is pretty cool...lol as far as the hard fuel lines I based them off 1/4" OD fuel line. .25"/16=0.0156. .025" line would be equivalent to 3/8" OD fuel line. I am still debating what I will do for them.

Norman... Thank you. Yes they do print with a texture on them and in no way would you be able to get the same finish fresh off the print, like how styrene comes out of a mold. Those injection molds cost quite a bit for the model companies to make. This Frosted Ultra Detail material is and acrylic material and it sands very easy like styrene. You will see in my next updates where I will sand with some sanding sticks and sand paper to smooth them out. I have had a friend of mine print me a few parts from his Makerbot personal printer and the material sucked, It was PLA and wouldn't sand worth a darn. It was very hard material. I can't wait to have these bad boys ready for paint now.

Here are a few issues I had with the Injector Hat and as to why I said I needed to do a little redesigning to it. For some reason not all of the holes I had in it printed. I have a feeling that it was because I made them a tad too small. I sized them all to .016" of and I probably should of made them a min of .020. There should be 4 lines for the injector ports and there should of been the bore for the butterflies shaft: Here on the opposite side it only printed one injector port hole: Here are a few fun mock up shots:

More of the injector hat: Back: Front: Here is the 3 Piece Hilborn Fuel Pump:

Ok Fellas.... I got a couple quick coats of primer on the parts and the only prep I did to them was wash them with Dawn and warm water. I wanted you to see the finish which will all be sanded smooth. This Frosted Ultra Detail material is very easy to sand smooth. Here are a truck load of pics for you to look at.... Here is the font and rear panels of the blower: Here is one side of the blower along with the "MOONEYHAM" lettering printed on the side. it looked to print nice but missing a little bit of the lettering and I haven't a clue as to why: Here is the other side with the same result: Front panel on the blower: Here is the injector Hat:

Niko.... You are welcome. I m sure you guys think I am nuts.... ...hahaha. I would tell you to go for a detailed build sometime But I would tell you to have other builds going on at the same time so you don't get burnt out from it. I know I have felt I have needed a break from this build but I need to get this thing done....lol I have been at it way too long. Mitch.... Basically anything that is drawing up in a CAD (Computer Aided Design) system you can print 3D parts using the models created from that system. Here is a couple of things I just googled to explain it: Here is what Shapeways says: How it's 3D printed This material is printed using the Multijet Modeling (MJM) process. Molten plastic is deposited onto an aluminum build platform in layers using several nozzles, essentially like a large print that sweeps across the build layer. As the heated material jets onto the build plate, it solidifies instantly. After each layer is deposited, it is cured, or polymerized, by a wide area UV lamp. The next layer then applied, and through this repeated process layers of thermoplastic build up into a model. When printing is finished, we remove the models from the tray and put them into an oven that melts away the wax support material. Next, we put the models into an a ultrasonic oil bath to remove any remaining wax residues, and then a ultrasonic water bath to remove any oil on the model. Finally, we inspect the models and dry them by hand. And here are 2 other sources I copied and pasted real quick What 3D printing is 3D printing or additive manufacturing is a process of making three dimensional solid objects from a digital file. The creation of a 3D printed object is achieved using additive processes. In an additive process an object is created by laying down successive layers of material until the entire object is created. Each of these layers can be seen as a thinly sliced horizontal cross-section of the eventual object. How 3D Printing works It all starts with making a virtual design of the object you want to create. This virtual design is made in a CAD (Computer Aided Design) file using a 3D modeling program (for the creation of a totally new object) ór with the use of a 3D scanner (to copy an existing object). This scanner makes a 3D digital copy of an object and puts it into a 3D modeling program. To prepare the digital file created in a 3D modeling program for printing, the software slices the final model into hundreds or thousands of horizontal layers. When this prepared file is uploaded in the 3D printer, the printer creates the object layer by layer. The 3D printer reads every slice (or 2D image) and proceeds to create the object blending each layer together with no sign of the layering visible, resulting in one three dimensional object. Stereolithography (SLA) vs Multi-Jet Modeling (MJM) Stereolithography and multi-jet modeling are 2 very different additive manufacturing technologies that produce accurate, precise, and “true to cad” models. People often ask, “What is the difference between these two technologies, and why should I pick one over the other”? Let me shed a little light on the subject to help you figure out which technology may be the one for your application. Stereolithography (SLA) is the process of curing layers of photopolymer resin with an ultraviolet laser to build parts. Each layer the laser traces a cross-section of the part on the surface of the resin, joining it to the previous layer below. After each layer, the build platform lowers into the resin the depth of a single layer, then repeats the process. The printed part requires support structures to hold up and brace the part so it does not collapse. After printing, the support structure is then easily removed simply by wiping or breaking them off. You will find this type of 3d printing in almost every industry from automotive and manufacturing to the medical field. One of the major advantages of SLA is the speed that parts can be made. Prototypes can be produced at fractions of the time needed for other printing technologies. Another huge advantage is the wide array of material properties of the resins that are available to SLA printing. There are resins that are crystal clear, have high heat deflection, and high impact strength to name a few. If your application requires special material properties, this technology has a solution for it. Lastly I have found that the accuracy is exceptional. Warping issues with some geometries can be a problem on technologies that utilize thermoplastics, but with SLA, this is not an issue. Multi-jet Modeling (MJM) is the additive manufacturing process of a large industrial print head jetting material onto a build plate one layer at a time. The print head has many very small holes that jet droplets of build material and support material simultaneously to build your part one layer at a time. The material used is a type of photopolymer similar to the SLA process that requires a UV light to cure. You will find this type of 3d printing in a wide verity of business applications including dental, medical, jewelry, and manufacturing. One of the major advantages of MJM is that the support structure is wax. This leads to a hands-off finishing process that requires an oven to melt the wax away, leaving your finished printed part. Also because the print head jets such small droplets, MJM allows for details in parts that are extreamly small and precise. Printing a screen, similar to that on a screen door is quite easy for this technology. No other technology is able to achieve the level of detail that MJM offers. So which one is better for your application? Both technologies can achieve spectacular results, but to utilize the technologies to their fullest you must decide which type suites your application best. Do you need tiny details to be perfectly printed that MJM offers with extremely sharp details? Or does your application require a special material and the high accuracy and speed that SLA offers? Either way, I have found that the best way to fit a printer to your needs is to test the printed parts with your application. Without that test, all you can do is guess.

Bill.... Thank you so much. I am hoping they will look even better and be more impressive with paint and bolts installed...lol