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MrObsessive

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Everything posted by MrObsessive

  1. Ya, I thought about silk for the top, but attaching it to the frame would have been the difficulty. Some very thin leather would be perfect, because at least you could attach it to the frame with super glue (sparingly!). But then you'd have the wrinkles to deal with. For the rear window, I had thought about using a plastic dropcloth for such............but then I can't remember now how I would attach it to the top! Harry, I have Danbury Mint's excellent 1/12 1964½ Mustang----and its folding top is EXCELLENT! It folds beautifully and looks just like the 1:1 when in the top is up. Whatever material they are using is excellent for that scale.
  2. Hmmm.............a book huh? I've been asked that before and it's something I had considered a while back. I'll have to revisit that idea again! Thanks for the compliments about my writing and grammar............I used to have fits when my Mom and Dad would correct me if I said something grammatically incorrect. My Mom particularly was a real stickler about speaking English like one had good sense! Looking back I can see where she made a lot of sense because it's helped me land jobs when other folks were turned down for that very reason..............not being able to speak and write properly!
  3. Just so you don't think your eyes are playing tricks on you..............that's NOT the folding top material in the above pic! I ended up using the hardtop that was cut off and fashioned it into a convertible uptop. I can remember seeing Pontiacs of that vintage with pale blue tops, so I wanted the GTO to have one. If it wasn't for the warped windshield and side glass, it would be sitting pretty somewhere in a display case by now. Oh well..............that's modeling for ya!
  4. Mike, you're exactly right! I couldn't find material that folded up and looked in scale for that type------so the project came to a screeching halt. Getting the top frame itself to work was time consuming enough, (I still have it) but if you're able to get thin enough material to look in scale, AND make a folding rear window, AND getting it to be in the up position without wrinkles............go for it! I used an actual '64 LeMans GTO body shop manual to get the shape and hinge knuckles in scale for the top frame. Part of my job is micro soldering so that's where some of the soldering know-how comes from. Here's some pics of the top frame in its various stages of movement and development.............. Here's the car the last time I was working on it a few years ago----------- I have since put it away with maybe someday working on it. ALL the working windows have since warped and curled up like potato chips as I used the wrong type acetate for them. Also the driver's side window no longer winds up and down. It would require completely tearing the car down to get new windows in and fixing the driver's side. Maybe next year...............
  5. Hmmm.............without seeing the door, (could you post a pic?) it seems like you could just replace that piece with some strip plastic. Maybe just glue that piece on to begin with and then shape the piece symmetrical as the other door. I wouldn't try to bend or straighten that thin piece out------plastic has too much of a memory for that. It will only go back to what it was when it was bent. I hope you didn't cut both doors out at the same time.....this can lend to a weak body and cause problems later. I would only cut one door out, build up the door jambs on the body, and then cut the other door out following the same process. This will minimize breakage at the rockers if you can do it this way. Hope this helps!
  6. Thanks for all the nice words so far guys! Updates will be slow these days as I had a torn tendon in my left ankle last weekend and I'm not getting around too well right now. I'll see what I can do this coming week as I'll be off work for awhile-------be a good time to get some more done when the crutches aren't in the way to get from room to room. Makes me kinda wish I was back in my apartment------kinda tough when you're in a three story house with too many stairs!
  7. Wouldn't that be a sight to behold!! That comment was just too funny!
  8. Aahhh........didn't see that Bob! I knew I read that somewhere but it wasn't from Wikipedia. I'll probably buy the '55 300 only because it is a unique '50's subject..........I'd still want someone to do a proper '61 though since they were the last of the "finny" ones!
  9. Hmmmm.................
  10. Also, if I can remember my Chrysler 300 history correctly, one of the reasons the 300's out of the late '50's/early '60's go for such big bucks is that they were essentially a hand built car. Especially in the interior area. It's been said the 1961 300G was the last of the "hand builts" so the '62's were more into the mainstream thus not commanding near as high a price on the collector market as the earlier 300's. Educate me Mopar guys!
  11. IIRC, didn't they skip the letter "I" in 1963 so it wouldn't be confused with the Roman numeral "I"? I think they went from 300H in 1962 to 300J for '63...........I could be wrong though...........
  12. I'm not a street rod guy, but that is NICE!! Has this kit ever been resissued? I thought years ago seeing a "Little T" kit on the LHS shelves once.
  13. You don't know how BAD I wanted to spill the beans about this car! It was part of a series of concept Solstices that turned up a year or two ago on the auto show circuits. That removable hardtop would have been a nice addition to the option list for it............too bad GM went and canceled it along with the rest of Pontiac.
  14. Wow! What a neat site! I did find a mistake though in the Ford section..........the '68 Shelby Mustang they show in their drawings is clearly a '67. Great site for those of us that want our kitbashing to go forth without a hitch when it comes to getting body contours correct.
  15. Jeff, I put the '55 Ford on hiatus for a while due to trouble with getting the driver's door to shut and latch properly. This was before I discovered those tiny magnets I used in the Cougar II build. It's about 90% done..........just a matter of getting the chrome replated, doing some engine bay work and then getting it all together in the chassis. Maybe after I get the Merc done, I'll start back on it---------unfortunately I'm hobbling around this big house on crutches as I tore (possibly) an Achilles tendon in my left ankle/heel last weekend. I go for an MRI this morning so they can get a better idea to see what happened.........it's just mighty painful to walk on my left foot at times. You'd think I'd have more time for building as I'll be off work for the next two weeks (possible longer) but when you have a hard time getting up and down the stairs as it is with trying to get something done, it just ain't that easy.
  16. George, click here for more details. Ya gotta scroll down a bit though.
  17. Aaaaah yes! The 'ol SU carbs! Spent many a time trying to keep those things in sync..............Ran very well though when they were!
  18. Get yourself some very fine .010 brass rod to clean out the tube if you need it. That stuff is hair thin, and just the right diameter for cleaning out the applicator tube.
  19. No, never had to deal with any of those.........yet! Not even a #1! Hopefully never!
  20. Those tonneau covers were great Bill--------------my MG had the full tonneau along with the up top. It was neat to turn the heat up full blast with the full tonneau on, then drive around with the tonneau zipped halfway on a frosty morning with the heat trapped under that little tent. Ahhhhh those were the days-------long before mortgages, car payments, etc.............
  21. Jeff, if you ever decide to fix that '58, here's a few tips to maybe help you along. If you can find a derelict kit of the old X-EL/Johan '59 Dodge, (or just the body)...............Wack the roof off of that in place of the incorrect RC2 Belvedere. The lines of that roof are dead on accurate-----a '59 Plymouth Fury hardtop roof would work too. For the windshield frame, you could use the frame off of the '57 Chrysler 300C which would be correct for '58 Plymouth hardtops, while every other Chrysler make went with the "bubble/wrapover" windshield for hardtops and convertibles in '58. The fins would need some "raising" with a slight angle upwards starting just behind the door, and make the fins themselves about a scale inch taller------and for the side trim, I would sand that away and just make new trim using strip styrene. The anodized chrome inside the trim you can replicate with gold cake decorating foil you get at the craft stores. A lot of work yes, but in the end a whole lot better than what RC2 gave us!
  22. Wayne, what you want is the Touch 'n' Flow applicator. Check here at MicroMark.com to check it out!
  23. Absolutely Beautiful Peter!! Just like your 1:1! Your engine looks VERY familiar in your 1:1, as I was under the hood of mine MANY times when I had one back in the mid '80's!
  24. Jeff, there are so many things wrong with that kit, it would take up all the bandwidth on the board to name them all! 1. The roof is too low 2. The rear fenders (especially the fins) are too low. 3. The side trim is "crooked" because the rear fenders are too low. Trim should run in a straight line from front fender to fin. 4. It's been said the interior is wrong, but I'm not sure about that...... I have ways to fix the body, but right now I'm not into the superdetail mode. The kit is actually a Belvedere, but with a LOT of work, can be made into a proper Fury. I'm sure others can name a few other things that's wrong with that car.
  25. I don't know about laser cut vinyl Len, but if all else fails-----you could check here for white roundels for your Daytona.
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