MrObsessive

:lol:

My thighs were holding the model Harry...........Let's just say the model ended up rather bent!

Well I tried using thread years ago to cut out doors when I was a much bigger me.........needless to say the model didn't survive trying to hold it in between my knees. I'm not crazy about that method just the same. I'd much rather use the back of an Exacto blade, and grind out the back side of the doors around the door line to speed things up.

You're talking about this one! Check it out!

Janne, eBay Motors is a good place to check for pics. I found there a completed auction of a '51 that you might want to check out. Click the link below to check it out. http://snipurl.com/s9q49

Yeah Dave, my face now is not as fuzzy and bushy as my avatar pic, but those even with a short goatee and mustache should pay close attention to make sure the respirator is snug as a bug.

Stay tuned Brian........after I finish the engine (hopefully over the weekend), rubbing out and polishing the body and such with the cloths will be next. Have some "important" things to do before I go out of town around the middle of next week, so maybe I can squeeze that in.

Brian, I've known of guys who used a "foam brush" to put Future on whole bodies. When they painted over it, I saw no brush streaks or anything to indicate that there was some other brushed coat underneath the spray painted body. I personally airbrush Future on-----it takes some practice to not get it to run, but if it does you can have a paper towel nearby to wick up the excess as it may run to the corner of the body. On the pic you see above for the engine block, the Future did level out after I brushed it on before I sprayed the primer and color coat. Now I recommend multiple coats of Future as it does shrink when drying.........that's up to you to determine how many coats though.

No------------brush paint it as in Tamiya's bottle acrylics or other acrylics out there.

If you're using Tamiya's acrylics, I'd use their thinner as I don't trust using plain water to thin acrylic paint. As far as thinning consistency-----------you gotta go with your gut man! As Bo Jackson used to say "Just do it!"

I built the snapper years ago........the snap kit BTW, is based on the concept as it has those "slit" headlights. The Revell and the AMT kit are based on the production vehicle as they have the production correct headlights. As always, especially with the AMT kit, I would test fit and test fit again as there are a LOT of parts and for sure some fiddly details to go with it.

The Revell tires' profile are correct for the 1:1. It's the AMT's which are not correct looking at actual photos (such as the Revell box art) of the car.

Brandon, I have both kits. If it were me, I'd build the AMT kit BUT use the wheels and tires out of the Revell kit as they are dead on accurate for the 1:1. AMT's kit I feel is better detailed for what you get. AMT's wheels and tires (as usual) are a bit under scale for what they're trying to represent. This is one man's opinion and others may feel differently. Your mileage may vary.

Was there a tracking number used? I just sent something to Sweden and was able to track it all the way. That way I know they got it and there's no hurt feelings due to a misunderstanding.

You got that right Ron! I'm sorry but that just doesn't look right...........the proportions are all off on that one. And that coming from someone who remembers when these were new. In other words, DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY!! Also, never buy from auctions where they can't show you more than one pic. I've got something on auction there right now and the pics are numerous and LARGE!

For embossing powder, I try to use an acrylic paint that's as close a color to the powder as possible. I do one square at a time because the powder it so fine grained that I don't want to waste it on one big section. Yes, to my eyes the powder is a bit more in scale than using flocking simply because it's finer ground representing carpeting in 1/24-25 scale. Here's a couple pics of the Cougar II I was working on with the flocking................ IMO, flocking seems more suited to 1/16 and larger------but that's just me.

Jay and Roger, to answer your questions about Future------yes, just about any paint 'cept for the very hottest and caustic ones, will go over Future without crazing the plastic. Here's a few pics of models that were first airbrushed with Future on the bare plastic and then painted over. The Future is self leveling, and shouldn't need any sanding...........also I would turn the pressure down to 10-15 psi when spraying as it can run quickly if the pressure is too high. '05 Corvette hood with Sunset Orange automotive paint straight from the paint jobber over Future........Note that there's NO crazing! '06 Magnum............ '05 Mustang............ I picked these three out simply because they are the newer Revell releases with the "soft" plastic that crazes easier than previous years. When I started hearing the horror stories that guys were having with the newer Revell stuff when they had no problem before, Future immediately came to mind. Those that have seen these models in person can vouch that there's nary a crazing area anywhere on the bodies. I personally don't care for Future as a clearcoat-------I'd rather use regular automotive paint or Tamiya X-22 for clears. And even then I don't like to clearcoat anything except for metallic colors. Hope this helps!

Don Holthaus from The Modelhaus recommends oven cleaner like I described above. If he recommends it, and he's the best in the business-------then it's all good. Click here to check and see how he recommends working with resin.

It certainly should! Future works because the surface itself is "neutral". In other words it's an acrylic, so flats or glosses go over it with no trouble at all. The fact that's it's water/acrylic based is also a plus for the hot lacquers and polyurethanes. I've seen military builders put the hottest paints available over plastic coated with Future and their was nary a crazing of the plastic.

First off welcome! You might want to try oven cleaner for stripping. Here in the U.S we have something called Easy Off......I don't know if that's available in Finland. This is pretty potent stuff------you'll want to use gloves when putting it on. Follow the instruction carefully! In fact, just about any oven cleaner should work as long as it's the good stuff and not the "environmentally correct" (fume free) stuff. You could also try lacquer thinner or acetone, but I don't recommend putting the entire body in the thinner. DON'T use brake fluid to strip paint on resin bodies!! You'll end with soft mush after it's all said and done. Some may have tried what's here in the states called Castrol Super Clean. I personally haven't used it both others may have so they might be able to give some pointers. It looks like you tried to put lacquer paint over acrylic enamel.........bad idea! Always use the same type of paints throughout the process............it'll save you a lot of grief!

I have that cartoon on my hard drive! Here it is on You Tube. Enjoy! It is a classic!

Beautiful job Janne! Those wheels and tires look so much better on that! The tires have a more correct profile per the 1:1 and the body color looks pretty close to stock too.

Peter my sister is now 46 and has three grandchildren! She lives in N.C. and works out of her home. If you saw her, you'd definitely recognize her from the pic. Yeah, it's a shame what happened to AMC........they were a little late with their "pony cars", and a little too ahead of time with the Pacer and Gremlin. I absolutely loved my '69 AMX when I owned it.........not too many cars could outrun it except for the occasional 427 'Vette or believe it or not, a Grand National GNX! Gary, actually my two front teeth are gone again as I had to have them pulled (along with three others) last year. So if I don't have my partial in, things haven't changed much, 'cept I have to shave maybe once a day to keep the wiry beard away!

Welcome from a rare '61 model! I don't know about rusty.............Who doesn't love a nice, rare, finny, 1961 Chrysler 300G for instance?

I want my very potent '69 AMX 390 back that I had to sell when I went in the Army!