MrObsessive

Bob, I use snow cone cups as a funnel to decant spray cans. I don't think you can buy snow cone cups out of the store...............I got a large pack of 'em off eBay------about 200 or so. Simply cut off a small piece of the end of tip, tape the cup to your airbrush jar, and then spray into the cup. You might get some spray on your fingers a little, but this way has been effective for me in gettting automotive paints for airbrushing in a jar. Here's a pic of the snow cone in the background.................. I also located the past posts on how others did it.....................To check it out Bob, click here. HTH!

Yikes! is that a working flathead V8??? Looks mighty real to me! More details on that one! Would love to see the rest of what you're working on! The seat there looks like real vinyl................is that in 1/8? Yeah thick glasses can be a pain............add bifocals to the mix and we're in a world of hurt! Welcome to the board!

Chris, the piping is Detail Master detail wire. It's almost hair thin........and it comes in a bunch of colors like blue, yellow, green, etc. It's also good for underhood details such as coil and solenoid wiring. I attached it by first driling a hole with a #79 drill bit...............and then using very tiny drops of CA glue in spots. I then painted the seats-----------Once the paint is dry, you can take a toothpick and very lightly scrape away the paint on the wire. The only caveat is you have to work slowly and delicately................this was no 1/2 hour and done step. What was nice about the seats is that there was already a slight groove in the side bolsters to lay the piping. If you scratch some of the paint in spots, just touch it up with a fine brush. The paint I used was Tamiya's water based acrylics............thinned down with their thinner. This was the next best thing to do as the 1:1 has red stitching...............there ain't no way I can duplicate that stitching in 1/25 scale!

Just a short update this week..................with my working swing shifts for the next couple weeks, updates on this one may be sparse for awhile! I tried the embossing powder technique suggested by James Tremblett (JTRACING) and it turned out great! I just sprinkled the powder on a section with white glue, and then let it dry. I have to paint the area...............but I wanted to make sure it's good and dry as I've not tried this before. One nice thing about the embossing powder is that it doesn't float around in the air like flocking so it's nice in that regard. I would not recommend rubbing your eyes or your nose while applying this as things'll get mighty itchy!! Here's a pic so far....................... I'm going to airbrush the floor with Model Master Acryl Aircraft Black. This is a very dark shade of gray........but not pure black as the name may suggest. The seats were another challenge as the piping/stitching was another first for me................ I mostly got the look I wanted, however the insets came out a little too bright. If it weren't for the piping, I'd strip them and do them over......but getting that piping on was a real pain in the rear and I don't want to hassle with it again! I gotta give credit to Lyle Willits for giving me pointers on how to get the piping on. Actually though, I like the bright contrast as it looks better than the sea of grays which plagues way too many car interiors these days. There's a couple spots that need touch up with paint...............but for the most part the seats are done. I'll add seatbelts after the side panels are in with PE buckles. That's pretty much it for awhile. Hopefully I can get the whole interior done in the next week or so.........then it's on to the other half of the bodywork, filling in the sink marks and smoothing out the panels to get ready for paint. Thanks for lookin'!

Welcome aboard! I would LOVE to see the schematics for that! That's something I have yet to attempt in building. Where is your power source for the lights? In the model's gas tank or under the seat? I'd like to build something like that sometime without having to mount it on base. Just as a heads up......................you'll want to put your full name in your signature area (set in your profile) That's one of the rules of the board.

Marshall, if you're building a garden variety Hemi, then yours would be correct. However, SRT-8 Hemi's (2006's and '07's) are painted as shown here in the pic................. Mine won't have all the tiny hoses and such (this time! ) but I did some digging around on the engine (including a dealer brochure) before I shot the first coat. The regular Hemi's would have the black manifold as yours does, but all of the 6.1 Hemis I have seen have the aluminum heads and manifolds and an orange block. All the new Hemis are impressive just the same!

Beautiful old Ford!! The color suits that car well........and your interior details are extra nice! Your pics look great too for a borrowed camera!

Ken, you'll need to have your pics hosted somewhere on the 'net. Places like Photobucket are good.......I believe it's a free service. Personally I like Fotki, since I've had good service from them for the past 3 years I've been using 'em. You'll need to pay for the premium service to post pics on forums however. When you get the pics on the 'net, copy the URL (of the full size pic, NOT the thumbnail)...........and then you want to click the picture icon which is above the message box where you're typing. Paste the URL in the text field and then hit OK------the pic should show up in your message box. Repeat and do the same for subsequent pics. When you post your message, the board's software will automatically resize the pics so the board isn't shifted too far out of whack. It'll be a good idea to preview your message to see if the pics will take. HTH!

Nice styling excercise Ken!! That orange really makes it! Regarding your pics not showing up here........did you change the properties of the pics after you posted them? Ie: Change the pixel size in Fotki for viewing? Or if you move the pics into a different folder, that will change the URL Thus the pics won't show up any longer. Lemme know if you can see this................ The stance and track are dead perfect!

Well I might as well jump in................Yeah, y'all have seen this before, but it's the only Impala model I have!

I've been lookin' for the answer to that also Ismael! My Dodge Magnum thread still shows a 7/7/07 date on it although I've updated it several times. Wish I could edit or a least eliminate it.

Jeryd, I don't know how old your are.....but if you're old enough to have seen mostly '50's cars and hot rods on the street....................you'll LOVE this movie! Here's a link to the movie details.

That's a real beaut Cruz! It's hard to believe the changes from one year to the next, yet the '59 to '64 Impala's are essentially the same car.................just different sheetmetal and interiors. If they're releasing the '61's again............I have to get the convertible. For some reason I never picked this one up when it was out.

IIRC, the first releases cowl was a bit too rounded............like a half moon shape. So the dash, and likewise the windshield were also the incorrect shape. It was also said that the height of the cowl to the rockers was a bit shallow-------that can be subjective as to me it seems okay. At least the roofline has the correct "kickup" at the base of the C pillars.......something that ERTL forgot when they did their '62 Bel Air bubbletop. My problem with the kit now is the glass has too much optical distortion for my tastes.................no big deal, but if I were going to build it, I'd have to vacuform the front and rear glass as the one in my kit seems overly distorted. I've always liked '61 Impala hardtops......they remind me of a wingless jet with those rear fenders! Lyle, yours with the fender skirts really emphasizes that!

First, Welcome to the board Jamie! I've had this happen in the past when I used tape that had too heavy of a tack. What you might want to try is to use the tape itself to pull the residue off. I would maybe put the sticky side of the tape on a table or something to lessen some of the tackiness..............and then carefully put the tape where the residue is and pull up on it (CAREFULLY!! ) You can maybe ball up the tape a bit-------I wouldn't lay the whole strip of tape back over the residue. This will be a bit tricky because it's already painted. I would suggest waxing the model where the residue resides................ but being that gold is a metallic, you might disturb the metallic flakes a bit too much, which would mean painting the car all over again. Give this a shot.....maybe some others can chime in on some other methods they've used. .............And congrats on the new baby!

I swiped this pic off the 'net to get an idea of the 1:1's underside and as I thought, the chassis has overspray from the sides. The car shown is actually a Charger Daytona, but Chrysler's LX rear wheel drivers are all pretty much the same underneath. At this point the chassis is all done, 'cept for painting the wheelwells black and of mounting the wheels and tires. I won't put those on 'til near the end as I want to make sure everything fits together without much drama. I did mock up the wheels and tires so far to get an idea of what the end result should be. One of the most irritating things to me when building is not gettting the ride height just so, and also the track of the wheels needs to be taken into account per the 1:1 That's all for now guys....................stay tuned!

Meet the newest member of my model building arsenal! I picked this up yesterday from our club picnic. CPMCC member Larry Landis was selling these from his job (reconditioned) for only $65.00!! Of course I've already sprayed with it and it's great! It's a little on the noisy side..............but I only run it long enough to fill the tanks, and the volume of air that they hold will last a while for what I do. It was time to get started on the interior...............not a lot of progress, but some things need fixing first.............. Here's a pic of the 1:1's interior..................note the cool red stitching.............. Now this is a first for me..................adding piping using Detail Master wire. The 1:1 has red stitching.................but there's no way to duplicate that in proper scale for it to look right, so this is the next best thing. I've added small diameter rod before to enhance piping on seats.............but that was styrene, so it was just a matter of gluing it on and painting the entire seat. I'll need to put on some tiny drops of super glue to hold it in a couple spots.......after the seat is painted, I'll very lightly sand the piping to reveal the red. Thanks to Lyle Willits for giving me pointers on this detail! And he was right!......................This is very time consuming doing this, but it's worth it...................only three more seats to go! More to come!

As far as prepping your parts, you want to dechrome the original stuff with Easy-Off................you want to use the YELLOW can and NOT that fume free junk. It won't take off the lacquer underneath the chrome. Some have used CSC, but this can take a while to strip the chrome. Just the same, use rubber gloves as Easy-Off and CSC is nasty stuff! Also to make things as nice and smooth as possible, I've used a sanding stick to polish up the parts such as bumpers.........this'll aid in your chrome coming back super slick. As far as mounting................I can't help you there as I usually have them mount it since they would know which way the parts should face.

Try this email addy Rob.................... Little Motor Kar Company Also here's a physical address................ Little Motor Kar Co. 203 Linda Lane Reading, PA 19606 Phone/FAX (610) 779-1462 I've used them in the past, and he does great work! He's also a local guy so I'm more inclined to send parts to him than to Chrometech.

Very, Very Nice!! Your paint jobs are top notch along with the very clean construction!

Len take a look over at eBay Motors past and present auctions...............they're crawling with pics of what you're looking for.

Actually Jeryd, that ain't so bad at all! That's actually a "period" color for GM and Chevy in particular in the early '50's. That was a time before all the bright colors such as turquoise, and pinks, and yellows, etc.

I use a lot of what Bob mentioned along with making my parts out of various and sundry materials. Whatever strikes my fancy at the moment and is available to work easily, and will look in scale (VERY IMPORTANT!), I'll use when scratchbuilding. I have also bought shop manuals (Off eBay or elsewhere) to get the chassis details such as fuel and brake/emergency lines. eBay's also a good place to see a car "On the Lift" to get the underside colors. To add to what Bob said............You definitely need to get the basics down first before tackling the big (or little) tedious stuff! I'd make sure my builds were clean as a whistle before getting too bogged down with superdetailing. ........And as was mentioned, if you ever go to a show, more often than not they'll comment on the paint job first before noticing any working features are small added parts. Having been a judge at a number of shows, I can tell you that one of the first things I notice is the paint job on the roof, hood, and trunk of a model. If the paint is rough and orange peely, I immediately disqualified it (in my mind) for any further consideration. Especially when everything else on the table was much better paint wise. True Story: At one of the most famous contests in the country, a model won its class without as much as one working feature or scratchbuilt part. What was the secret to winning? The car had an ABSOLUTELY flawless paint job! There was nary a paint blob, or dust speck, or scratch anywhere to be found. It was also painted a metallic which can be difficult sometimes to get perfect. This car was also a "curbside" which means it had no engine detail and rudimentary chassis detail. In other words it was THAT GOOD! And, it was up against cars that had working features, PE items, and custom work. And yes, one of those cars that it was up against was mine. So it's nice to have all the bells and whistles at times.............just make sure you got the basics down pat before jumping in too much and getting burned out.

Bump....................Okay, the pics should be showing up now...................anyone have any trouble seeing 'em?

Okay, I solved the mystery of the disappearing pics...................when I changed the pixel size of the pics in Fotki, that does something to the .jpg tag in the URL so it wouldn't show up here. Now I'll have to go back and re-edit all the posts and pics that I made so far...................ARRRGGGHHHH!!...