highway

That, or it just can't make up it's mind!! :lol:

Did somebody say custom?? This is the perfect paint for a custom paint job when you can't figure out what color you want! The color on the cab and sleeper is Rustoleum Colorshift Galaxy Blue, and in certain light like sunlight, I have seen blue, purple, teal, red, and gold show up, even though the camera only pics up the purple and blue the best. I also painted the frame of this truck in another shade of the Colorshift called Gamma Green. The perdominate colors I've seen, just as the pic shows, is green and purple, and a little hint of gold in just the right angle light. EDIT: I've seen the Colorshift paints only at my local Lowe's, and a can is about $15, and when I first found it, a can was $20! The 2 cans it took for the cab and sleeper and the one can for the frame puts the total of this paint job at $60!!

Harry, if I remember my reissue Johan (from 2002??) it is a curbside. My big question, will it be like the Johan where it can be built as the pickup also?? Will it also have the goodies like the bowling bag and taxi sign?

I doubt Slixx will, because nowadays if it ain't NHRA, they don't do it. There are others like Just Want To Build A Model that do make very nice NASCAR decal sheets, so we can only hope!

It might be rediculous to you, but I know if I'm spending my hard earned money (and I think you might want to recheck that MSRP again) on a NEWLY TOOLED kit, I want that kit to be to a modern standard, not the reissued 1,000 times quality I've seen in a few reviews of this kit so far.

Believe me Dave, you DON'T want to know!!! :lol: It is Hawaiian for "family".

Ok, I know this probably isn't the most original of ideas, but I hope to get a couple for these:

Ok Tim, so what did you use for that hood when you built the example model??

Not like the bank doesn't do anything on the internet, I hear most banks still use carrier pigeons to do all their communicating!!! :lol:

Gary, if you don't want to do it for fear of feeling guilty, send him my way!!!! :lol:

Mark, by grille inserts do you mean the mesh inside of the grille areas themselves?? I'm by far not an "expert", but if that is what you are talking about, a way to replicate that is by using a piece of fine mesh screen and install it behind the grille bars. That is how Revell AG handles almost all (if I remember correctly) their Peterbilt grilles. I know at least the Can Do wrecker comes with a pre cut piece of screen for the grille in that kit.

WOW, who made you the R.O.M. police??? Clearly Harry didn't have a problem, or at least didn't PLUBLICLY have a problem with this thread since it was posted a whole 12 HRS BEFORE Harry posted HIS R.O.M.!! I'm sure if Harry had a big deal with it, Harry does have the power to make it go POOF!! Oh, and by the way Chucky, I think it's real. I don't ever remember seeing any 8 lug wheels in kit form or resin like the 8 luggers this is wearing!

Did your Red Bull give you wiings too!?!?! :lol:

If I remember correctly Derrick, it is a 1/18 scale. A friend of mine has it, that's why I'm not completely sure.

Davin, another little tip to add to what Harry said with the BMF, I use a Q-Tip when I burnish my foil. It helps to push the foil a little deeper into the molded depressions around the window trim and also helps give a cleaner edge when you cut the foil. As an added bonus, it also helps to polish the foil some for a little more shine.

Even though it is a diecast, Masito does have an assembly kit of the V-Rod.

Sean, here are ones I know about from Italeri: (I'll update this with kit numbers later.) These kit's all have this generic air ride suspension: Ford LTL 9000 "Lone Wolf" Mack Superliner Ford Aeromax 120 (also includes the reboxed Revell issue with the blue and silver truck on the boxart) Western Star (Sortimo Show Truck) Freightliner FLC The Italeri Frieghtliner FLD 120 has an updated Freightliner airride suspension and the Peterbilt 377 A/E has a Pete airride suspension.

:D :D :D :D Do you think I'm happy to hear this news!?!?!

Rob, great topic! Here are my feelings on the parts I found most important, even though everything in your post as well as everything Mark added is important to consider for anyone building models for contests. 1. I agree and disagree with the accuracy of the subject. I agree because if you are building just your ordinary run of the mill daily driver, who cares is if the shade of red, and I'll use the paint on my 1:1 1990 Ford F350 as an example, is not the proper Ford Cardinal Red but may be a shade or two lighter or darker? As long as the paint is done nicely and smooth, the correct paint color shouldn't be a factor. That is the same as your example of a Rusty Wallace stock car, if there are one or two sponser decals out of place or missing, that should not be an issue. Also, if you mix up a plug wire or two or maybe some other detailing item, as long as it is not something that stands out as glaringly out of place like a fluid hose going from the power steering pump to the alternator, who cares if you have the correct firing order on your Chevy small block? As long as the detailing is nicely done, it shouldn't matter. Now, here's the disagreement part, and this is just my personal opinion, and again I will use my 1:1 as a example, since I have the build of it in progress, and may just be more of my personal taste than really a judging requirement. If you are building something specifically for a replica stock class, and I know there are some that require pics of the 1:1 you are replicating, you should do everything possible to match that vehicle exactly. As in the build of my 1:1 F350, I have the proper Ford Cardinal Red for the model as my 1:1 is painted, and there is many things I have to scratchbuild or heavily modify to build the model like my 1:1. I will also have pics of the truck next to the model whenever I do finish it when it finally goes to a contest, and I feel any replica stock should be done to that standard. After all, if you enter replica stock, you are building a replica of a certain 1:1, and if the replica has aluminum wheels and not chrome, the model should not have chromed wheels. The same goes for your NASCAR example Rob, if it is a certain car raced in a certain race and there is a reference pic with the model, if that car had a Champion Spark Plugs sponsership decal on the rear deck lid, the model should better have it too. 2. 100% wholeheartedly agree!! Unless you are a gloryhound that HAS to have EVERYONE look at your model, the fancy disco ball revolving display bases are a pain in the you know what to judge from!! Many times at the show I judged at, we would reqiure the builder to turn off the revolving bases or we would just plain not judge the model. There was also one truck that had the electronics for the lights to work, made engine sounds, and air horn sounds and every time the builder brought one like that, within 10 minutes we told him either shut the sound effects off or leave! Great for the WOW factor, not great for the nerves! I've always lived by K.I.S.S, Keep It Simple Stupid, for displaying my models at shows, a simple mirror just slightly larger than the model itself and the little "tables" that come in the center of your pizza to put the model on top of for a complete view of top and bottom of the model, and for big rigs I use just small mirrors placed to where you can see under the truck at the details I want shown. 3. Again, 100% agree! If you don't care enough to remove mold flaws such as sink marks, mold lines, and copyright markings, $100 of photoetch and add on goodies will do nothing for you! In my opinion, models like that are just $100 piles of junk! I feel taking your time and building a nice model with the little work fixing those flaws takes is much more enjoyable than cranking out models with obvious flaws like a factory assembly line.

Peter, all of the prepainted cars have a decent finish on them, but will require stripping and repainting if you want something more than just a nice shelf model. Since it is a factory painted model, there has been no cleanup done to any mold lines or other imperfections, and I'm not sure if it was on one of my Georgia State Patrol cars or the CHP version, but in spots the masking between the two colors had bleed through in a few areas. The lightbars in each kit are also prefinished, so whatever colors are on the boxart car is what colors you will find in the kit. As an example, the Georgia car has a completely blue lightbar with a clear section in the middle on the box, and that is exactly what you get in the kit. Also, as a side note since you said you already built the OHP version, you will NOT find the shotgun in the newer versions. The only version with the shotgun was the OHP.

Yeah, it takes a battery for the lights and option motor, but it is very well hidden under the engine. By the way, if you think that is some cool stuff, wait till you see the seven boxes of kits I bought from a friend's collection who had passed away! Hehehehe.....NO!!! :lol:

Nice job! Are those the decals from the kit?

Well, it's been quite a while since this build has seen any action, but thanks to wanting to get something built for the Three Rivers Automodelers show on Sunday, I dug it out of mothballs. It didn't get finished though, there was just not enough time left, but at least some progress was made. I have the interior nearly finished, and even added some BMF to the door to replicate the light/reflector at the bottom of the door. The dash nearly complete, I just have the radio/nav control decals and steering wheel decals to add before it's complete. The chassis is nearly finished too, with just a few more small parts to add.

YEP! The F650, it's a Testor's diecast kit and I'm already having visions of it with a rollback bed on it!

........and now the continuing story of the Pittsburgh show haul. The jewel of the haul deserved it's own post anyway, one of Motor City Resin Casters' 72 Ford Ranchero resin kit. I'm really wanting to get some of my other projects of the bench, because I'm dying to start on this. The casting looks great and there is pactically no flash anywhere, and that's especially nice since this would be my first ever completely resin build. It comes complete with frame, interior, dash, steering wheel and column, all bumpers, grille, and hood. The only lacking parts are, other than a few little detail parts like a battery and brake master cylinder, the tires, wheels, and engine. I also bought a Scale Modeling by Chris resin 351 Cleveland for the motivation under the hood, and it is just as nicely cast as the rest of the car. The engine even comes with a M.A.D. pre-wired distributor, and after actually looking at the engine and distributor today, I REALLY wish I would have bought more distributors from Kris at the show!!!